L835

Almost identical problem to me, but I have a R380. Changed M/S S/S and pipe. Tried bleeding, but still cant get into gear. Have now removed S/S and piston moves when pedal depressed. Had a look at the clutch lever with an endoscope, pivot ball has not punched through, nor has S/S pushrod part. I changed the clutch 12/18 months ago and it has a Rakeway release bearing. Any ideas? With engine off will drive, so ruling out the clutch itself, other than a broken spring jamming it? Could the M/S not be generating enough pressure? Will bleed with S/S off and nip at top.... Hopefully someone can help!

Thanks Souster, Its been a long day ! could you tell me where you drill the bell housing, and how it helps please? Thanks Richard

On Friday, gear changing became more and more difficult, until the clutch failed to disengage completely. So over the weekend I have replaced the pedal and M/S with a new 'easy' spring one (if you know what I mean) and the slave cylinder. Turns out that the previous owner used the disco clutch damper and possibly slave cyl as it's a different thread. Anyway, try as I might using the bit of pipe, mirror and third hand method to replace the push rod clip, it wont. The old one came out with only one 'leg' and when I managed to push the replacement one on it's legs bent, are now touching and wont spring back, so the push rod is loose again! My questions are...... Are there different widths of clip, the slot in the release arm seems narrower than the legs of the clip? Does it do anything anyway, is it just there to aid assembly? Thanks Richard

Good evening, well it was... Went to start the 110 (disco 300tdi) but when the key was turned the starter clicked, and smoke came from the dash! (its ex military so the ignition switch is in the centre of the dash) Removing the panel, the insulation on the thick wires on the ignition switch had melted and they were stuck together..... Separated the wires, and when the key is turned the starter spins very quickly, but the engine wont fire. Checked for air in fuel, and that the fuel pump solenoid clicks. Fortunately I was parked at the top of a hill so it bump started very easily. So new starter motor, or just the solenoid? and are 300 and 200tdi starter motors the same? I have an old 200tdi one, and its a bank holiday weekend... Many thanks Richard

Mine did exactly the same thing. For an unknown reason the master cylinder decide to fail while the clutch was being changed. No fluid leaks and it seemed to be working, but a change of cylinder and all was well. I know you changed yours, but was it ok or out of a blue box?! Just a thought!

Had the thread measured and it's, ..................... 7/8 UNF

Changed my scissor prop for a solid one, in view of the weight....

Have bonnet mounted spares on 1989 and 1990 110s - no issues!

Freedom of information request to the MoD. Ask for an A4 paper copy of AESP-D-122-522 "Land Rover 90/110/127 all variants Repair Instructions" Basically the factory workshop manual, mainly for the 2.5NA and3.5 V8, with added army info. Later publications should cover the 300tdi,but I haven't found which...yet! Anyway its A4, printed both sides and 35mm thick delivered free to your door.

Tried the holes in the pedal boxes?

I've tried to knock it out, but it wont budge, so I'm going to leave it. Cant see it getting into the cyl, but time will tell!

A 'windscreen filler strip insert tool' and washing up liquid will save your sanity when putting the filler strip in! Surprising how many Defenders you see with the strip on the outside!

I'm giving the top end of my 300tdi a refurb, but one of the glow plugs has broken off, about 40mm in. I have tried tapping it out while the head is off, but its absolutely solid. The bore seems to be a taper fit. Is leaving it in likely to cause any damage, or will it remove itself when the head is hot and compression in the cylinder persuades it to leave? Thanks Richard

I replaced my gear knob with one of these! Trying to find a screw on knob for the transfer lever if I can determine the thread.

Heard a rumour from a military man (at Christmas) that Land Rover have redesigned the front end to be more rounded, A new engine that meets emissions too.... Just a rumour though!

I bought an x-defend new, I now what you mean by the angles, sometimes its easier to use it in 3rd, and yes my knob fell off too! Wouldn't be without it though!

Hi, thanks for the replies so far! joe1joe, tried that and its leaking again! Tuko, it has a 300tdi with power steering in, connecting the tank to the reservoir might be the way to go! Will have a think about the belt Lewis, and Red90 I have a good manual box ready to fit.

I changed power for manual in my last 110 (200tdi) and didn't notice much change in the effort required to steer! I am trying to restore it to it's original condition - all be it slowly and in stages. The 300tdi conversion was at best a compromise as being a wader he didn't fit an air filter due to the lack of space........

Hi, I'm hoping to change the power steering for manual in my ex-army 110, as the box has finally stopped even pretending to retain fluid! It was converted to a 300tdi by the previous owner, but I'm trying to keep it as original as possible. It was originally manual, and without a pump and hoses there are a few less things to leak/go wrong! Has anyone else managed to get rid of the pump? A trawl of the net suggests in order of difficulty Leave pump in place but pipe output directly to input or Strip pump internals and use as an idler or Remove pump and reroute a shorter drive belt or Fabricate a new idler to replace the pump Any advice/experience/ideas would be welcome Thanks Richard

Well there you go! Swapped the springs and it sits level, driving and cornering are much improved! Turns out that it already had HD springs! Guess they could just have been tired? So now to the back, as I feel as though I'm leaning backwards when driving. 130 springs with helpers or TD5 ones? Have searched as I remember some discussion but cannot find it. Thanks Richard

My 1990 110 has developed (more of) a list to port! so time for a spring change. It has a mechanical winch up front, so will I encounter any problems using a pair of NRC9462 (90 HD rear springs) at 210/240 lb/in, as I have a pair on the shelf, rather than the usual NRC 9448/9 (std 90 rears) at 225 lb/in ? Thanks Richard

Mine leaks through the door seal where it changes shape by the hinge, then runs along the bulkhead before dripping from below the wiper motor...

Tightened mine up again - hernia tight with them longest bar I could find! Waiting for a new washer, dealer says they have only ever sold 5 as they don't come loose...!

Any clues on the thread size? Mine keeps loosening despite new a new washer so want to replaced it with said nylock!

My sunroof leaked so much I've put a SIII tropical roof over the top!