monkie

That is indeed a Defender spec 200Tdi engine. That little fact may well help you with finding the right parts in the future! This is a great place to look for part numbers and diagrams "200Tdi Diagrams - Find Land Rover parts at LR Workshop" https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-rover-defender-engine/200tdi

I have discovered some wires which I think (hope are unused) so might have some pictures coming up to ask for help to identify, but in the mean time I came across this absolute gem of information so wanted to share - I appreciate it is for a 300Tdi, but it is a great resource: https://www.lrworkshop.com/wiring-looms/defender-1995-300tdi/bulkhead-loom-300tdi-rhd

Sorry that link didn't work - use this

To tell which engine you have: a 300tdi will have a single belt driving the coolant pump, alternator, PAS pump. The 200tdi has 2 belts. If the engine is a defender spec 200tdi the turbo will be mounted high on the exhaust manifold. If Discovery spec as a transplant (common modification to swap earlier engines) the turbo will be mounted low like on a 300Tdi. A picture of the engine will help us to confirm it for you.

That looks to me like a Lucas ACR plug. I thought the 300tdi engines had a different connection to this at the alternator, are you sure it isn't a 200Tdi (particularly given the year is 1992)? Any way you get this from most automotive wiring places. I use autosparks in the UK, but I came across this in the USA.

@Happyoldgit I'm very sorry to hear this. All I can say is I hope 2021 brings much better news for all of us no matter where we are.

I want to know when this change happened and what the change was becuase I had some at the end of last year and they were awful. Some said it is all over the internet - if it is please can someone share a link becuase I can't find any details what so ever. I'm happy to be proven that my searching skills need some improvements.

That was your problem.

Unless he had the old ones with a plastic roller that got mangled out of shape over the years.

My new Lucas dash warning lamps arrived at the old one was faded and corroded. The 12v ones are silly prices as someone bought them all up from Lucas so they only had the 24v type left. Apparently the only difference is the bulbs. This is 1 of only 2 that was left at the supplier of the 24volt type. The gent who sold it matched the old Lucas price of £80 and included the 12v bulbs.

This is all very helpful stuff. Thank you very much @FridgeFreezerand @landroversforeverIts this absolute golden advice that makes this forum the best resource for help. When I've done electrical work previously I crimp, solder (minimum amount - not a blobby bird s^*t) and then heatshrink. I don't have a proper econoseal crimper so this is a top tip I will try and source one - typical this all happens in the last run up to Christmass. I hope I can get one whilst I am off work over the holiday period.

I got a complete new defender style fuse box with new terminals from autosparks for about £30. I made a brand new engine loom last year.

@simonb thank you for this. My plans were to use superseal/econoseal connectors to replace all bullets for lights, where the main loom joins the chassis loom and engine loom etc and also for the earths. I was considering the same approach for the earth's you describe as I think the land rover way is terrible. Thank you for confirming. My main issue is a messed about with fuse box with loose and damage wires (I'm worried about the fire risk), bodged chassis loom from previous owners, broken/worn connectors for the lights front and rear, plus land rover earth's! I think your idea is a good one to save time and money... To renew what I describe above but keep the instrument wiring as is and just build the rest of the loom around it.

Thank you for this. I do have a proper crimp tool plus automatic wire stripper tool. I will solder following the crimping. I like the standard look so I have the proper tape and pvc sheath from autosparks. I am going to build in the glow plug timer relay as well as run the headlights off of relays. I have seen the how to posts on here. I can't source the terminals for the dash warning lights but if autosparks make the ready to go looms they must have them. I will give them a ring tomorrow. @simonbplease can you detail what you mean about the earths? Do you return back to a main bus to the negative battery terminal?

This is what I've done just now. It makes sense to me. Would this be helpful for others?

I'm starting to make detailed diagrams of the looms with colour coding and comments that I will share incase they come in handy for anyone else doing this in the future or just fault finding.

Just got all the stuff from Autosparks to make the Chassis loom whilst I figure out the main loom. A bunch of econoseal connectors, all the wires of correct colour code and rating plus tapes came to £45 - a huge improvement over the £102 off the shelf price.

What's the difference between econoseal and super seal connectors please?

Thanks Ralph. I do use Autosparks. I did look at their off the shelf harnesses. Its almost £600 for a main loom plus anohter £90 for the chassis loom. I was hoping to come in considerably cheaper making my own! I am currently pricing up the shopping list to see how naive that thought might be!

P.S - It is for a 1988 110 with the 19J turbo diesel engine. I have already made myself the relatively simple engine harness and was encourage by my efforts on this to go for the big one.

Well this was a project I set myself for 2019 - oh well Ever since I've had my 110, its had a common issue of unreliable electrics. Over the years previous owners and myself have made tempory repairs and addtions that have subsequently added their own problems. A big source of my problems is poor connections and old wires at the fuse box. I want to add in some modifications such as provision for a glowplug timer relay, headlights running from relays not the switch, intermittent wiper relay. I've bit the bullet - I have removed the main harness and intend to make my own as well as the harness that goes to the rear. I will be using the correct wiring colours to help me and also for any future fault finding. I'm after some advice and tips from those who have done this before please: I don't like the bullet connectors and I also can't source some connectors such as those which go to the instrument panel. What connectors do you recommend? (I like the look of the superseal type - any good?) I was thinking of soldering the connectors in place - is this the correct method? Any one have any diagrams (beyond the wiring diagram) that may help me?

Please can you add a link to detail their design change? As per my reply, I don't know if they have actually altered them (when this happened, why it happened and when what exactly happened). But as you say they are significantly cheaper.

Have you removed the door seal just to see if that makes any difference? I don't know if Britpart have altered the door seals they sell but I have had them in the past and they didn't resemble the genuine part in any way.

Maybe the latch has had it. I would treat yourself to a new genuine latch and the x-eng striker

The latch is held inplace by 3 screws IIRC, the adjustment is via the door hinges and the striker in terms of in and out, up and down.