monkie

If it were mine I would be tempted to tile it. Very durable finish and easy to clean with a mop or even pressure washer.

Like most things, a quality product can make a big difference. I have always found U-POL etch primer to be far superior to cheaper alternatives. Halfords sell it in large rattle cans in the UK. You can get good results from spray cans if they are properly mixed and you don't use them right to the end when they go all splattery. You need to keep them mixed whilst spraying and give them a short blast upside-down if the nozzle starts to clog up. Finishing with a good clear coat (U-POL again) will also produce a durable finish.

Exactly as above. Although with the wings removed taking an engine out and then putting it back in again is made easier in terms of you can see exactly what you are doing, it is a lot of additional work taking both wings off and putting them back on again. Just go easy to ensure you have undone every wire cable and hose on the way out and then ensuring you aren't trapping/crushing anything on the way back in.

Must have been positive earth

DERV is the UK term for pump diesel (diesel engine road vehicle). SVO I believe is straight vegetable oil, ie other than filter it no other treatment to the oil has been done such as conversion to biodiesel.

One thing I've always wondered on this sort of set up to purge the fuel system of SVO with DERV is the return lines. Won't this gradually return SVO into the main diesel tank so you end up with a mix or this just so negligible that it can be ignored? Of course this tank will eventually run low so you have to fill up from the petrol station, but I would have thought that this would be a rare event given the relatively small amount of time you run on DERV.

That is a must in my opinion for later fault finding should one occur. The mess my fuse box was in with all sorts of different wires soldered in was a mess and just causes confusion, delay and potential for mistakes. I also use Autosparks but there are a few places online.

I think this is relating to the 19J turbo diesel engine which has a belt not chain. I'm my experience. These engines do put out white smoke if the fip timing is too far retarded.

Chassis loom completed. 2 days to make this bad boy, but I'm pleased with the result. I'd go as far to say it's better than the original with the bullets deleted and a nice 30 amp earth running the whole length to each corner all tightly wrapped in loom tape with conduit on the outer. I've also been making up the individual circuits for the main loom ready to be connected together next weekend.

I think it's important to acknowledge good service when you get it... most of the wires and connectors etc I got from Autosparks. They had accidentally missed off my relay bases from my order when then box arrived (an understandable mistake given the quantity of stuff on the pick list for my order to make both the main and chassis harness). I also had missed a one or two wires off my order due to my mistake. I emailed them to let them know about the mistake with the relay bases. They were appologetic and said they would send them out that day. I got tied up with work and had a delay ordering the wires I had forgotten about - I ordered them and emailed them asking if they could be included in the package with the missing relays. Alas I had missed the post as they had sent them out there and then, so I said I would just pay for the postage for the wires I had forgotten about. I didn't hear back. No need for that, the relays arrived yesterday and the couple of things I had forgotten arrived free of charge this morning. Fantastic service that I want to acknowlegde. Thanks Autosparks.

What?! I was looking forward to your 1 million mile 200Tdi rebuild!

Where would the heat go if you ran the engine with no coolant...? I think you are over complicating this, there are no strange physics going on here. That lump of iron that is the block and head are massive heat sinks.

Or heat being produced by the engine isn't being sufficiently transferred to the coolant... *edit. Remember the thermal efficiency of internal combustion engine really is terrible. Most of the chemical energy in the fuel goes to making waste heat.

The ebay "300 Tdi" nozzle is here, DLLA155P572. It arrived in the same packaging as all the others so I won't go over that again. Visually it is different. The needle has a protrusion on it the goes towards the injector body and the tip of the nozzle is different.

If I can get the injectors and nozzles to you, would you be able to test them for us? I often go to Royal Cornwall Hospital for work so I may be able to drop them off (socially distanced of course).

Happy to sell you the nozzles at cost price with the proviso that I want to see you test them with a plasma cutter

When I bought my 110 some time ago now, it had 11 months MOT left on it. I got the train down to Camborne in Cornwall to drive it home to Somerset. On my home... the tail pipe fell off (somewhere never to be seen again on the A30 near Truro), I had a near death experience on a tight bend between Exeter and Honniton as it took the corner like a Kwiksave shopping trolley (those who know that part of the A30 will know what sharp right hand bend I mean), some of the rear lights didn't work. It wouldn't go up hills unless it was in 3rd gear (not an MOT issue but showed the lack of attention to details by the previous owner) I took it the next day to get a proper MOT at a trusted garage. It failed on lights not working, steering damper ineffective, front springs corroded and missing tail pipe. I'm sure it had a few advisories as well. I got them rectified immediately to get a pass. In hind sight I should have contacted VOSA about the place who issued the previous MOT just 6 weeks earlier who gave a certificate to my 110. I know that my 110 is safe and I don't wait for an annual MOT to check the condition of safety critical items.

I still think this case is still very much open. I haven't proven the ebay nozzles to be fakes. I'm going to perform some tests to compare original (as far as I can tell) used nozzles, ebay nozzle, Eurocarparts nozzle, ebay 300Tdi nozzle on a 200 Tdi injector) for opening pressures and spray patterns... watch this space. (my tests don't involve angle/bench grinders )

Speaking for myself, I have made no assumptions on what you have or haven't done, nor particularly care. Despite never having travelled to Australia (or the Arctic for that matter) I accept the wide range of ambient temperatures across our planet and there will be limits in extremes of conditions. Why bother asking on this forum? No one has said you don't know what you are doing. I guess there is a forum in Australia where the members know better than us how hot it is compared to us here in the perpetual cold, wet and dark? I think most people have been trying to help you, it's your choice whether or not you want to listen the advice offered. Personally I have found the knowledge and experience of folks on here to be second to none.

Was it a straight swap, you didn't have to make any adjustments to timing or anything?

It seems to me like you have made your mind up to get a bigger radiator, give it a go and see what happens. It might work, it might not if you have an underlying issue as some of the learned people on here have said.

I'm currently in the process of doing a complete re-wire of my 1988 110. I am not using the bullet connectors, but I have opted to use econoseal and super seal connectors where possible as they are more weather resistant and you can configure them to suit your requirements.

One would hope that a company such as Bosch would document and create a full audit trail of any changes to a product, wether that be material or design... That could be wishful thinking, but from the heavily regulated area I work in you can't just make changes to something and then leave the company with all that information in your head.

Is he a member of this forum? I get what you are saying and I wouldn't knock his experience for a moment, however I am more interested in what Bosch themselves have to say on any apparent differences. To be honest I dounbt they can/will comment on anything that is not supplied through their approved distributor (I wouldn't get drawn into such conversion if I were them) but you have to ask...

Excitement indeed. My wires and general goods have arrived from Autosparks. Hardly looks enough for the whole loom... We shall see!