monkie

I had this issue. Cleaning it and lubricating it just delayed the inevitable by a couple of months. I then replaced it with a pattern part and then had to revisit the job shortly after with the genuine part. The blue box ones are terrible. Save up for a genuine latch and also get the x-eng striker. The difference is amazing.

I just messaged the seller and they came back to me to say they'd check. I suppose they could just be marks that look like cracks on the photo. We'll see what they come back with.

That one looks like it has a crack from the glow plug hole to the new valve. I saw this one and it is why I asked the question. I wonder if it will sell for that price?

I know 200tdi heads are getting hard to find, what would you expect to pay for a 200tdi head with no cracks?

The guage on land rovers is so imprecise. When the fuel light has come on, put a large clean container under the tank and let the fuel drain out. You will then see howuch is in your tank when the light comes on and it will be interesting to see if there is any rubbish in the bottom.

👆This 100%. The amount of times I've heard people say that running low on fuel allows the engine to suck up rubbish from the bottom of the tank as if usually the fuel is skimmed off the surface! Also, petrol has a high vapour pressure and displaces a higher % of damp air in the tank. Diesel on the other hand has a low vapour pressure and won't displace wet air allowing condensation to form. Keep diesel tanks full of diesel for this reason.

If you've got the time to do it then take off the head. Give it a good clean up and inspection. You can lap the valves and get a new cyclonic breather. Refit using an Elring gasket. You will then be safe in the knowledge that you have done a thorough job. Also with the head off you can have a look at the bores.

I don't have a split charging system set up yet, but do find it a right pain to access the battery to charge that I don't do it as often as I should during periods of little use. I plan to set up some remote terminals that pop out of the seatbox with just a simple plastic cover on for easy access for charging and jump starting other things so I don't have to keep getting under the seat and sliding the hatch open. I took inspiration from my BMW as it has a similar set up because the battery is in a really inconvenient place covered by a mountain of plastic and stuff in the engine bay by the bulkhead.

He's back! Maybe got lost in a Land Rover parts shop as lock down was lifted

Interesting question. I don't know the exact answer so had a quick look at what was readily available in the UK. Halfords advertise as an example the GB70 from Noco. Details on the technical spec from Halfords were unsurprisingly sparse, so I looked the full spec up on Noco's own Web site. They say a peak output of 2000amps and upto 40 starts. But I'd say there are a few variables on that. Does that mean 40 attempts at starting a cold 8 litre diesel engine with a totally dead battery? I doubt it. The spec says the battery has a capacity of 56W hours. So I think they are just good at delivering a lot of amps quickly, which is what you want for an average vehicle in good health if the only issue is a flat battery just to get you on the move again. I doubt they'd cope with a large diesel engine with air in the fuel system that needs a bit of cranking, but that isn't their intended use.

Yes diesel will work there are just so many more readily available better alternatives. Again, do not use oven cleaner anywhere near aluminium. Aluminium will react with either acids or bases.

Brake and clutch cleaner is expensive but great, it is mostly hexane, a none polar solvent like petrol, paraffin, diesel. This is why I use thinners from a spray gun with similar effect. Isopranol is a polar solvent and won't be anywhere near as good as cleaning up oil based stuff like this compared to the none polar solvents.

Diesel will be leave a residue all over it. I often use cheap paint thinners sprayed from a cheap spray gun to clean messey parts. A good half way house that isn't as volatile as petrol nor greasy like diesel is white spirit. Plus its pretty cheap from toolstation and the likes.

Don't use anything caustic like Mr muscle containing sodium hydroxide near aluminium. It will attack the metal. I would use a solvent like petrol or paint thinners then soapy water. For the ports just carefully scrape the worst away.

A drain plug is no good to anyone if you can't get the filler plug undone. Plus if going to the trouble of making a new one, why not put a strong magnet in there? Oil is flung everywhere inside the box when running. Sounds like a great idea, I will be buying one when they are available.

I completely agree, people do all sorts and don't even tell their insurance company let alone the DVLA. I just wanted to raise the question as a chassis change is so expensive and labour intensive.

I don't know the specifics on this but want to raise the question of can you upgrade from a 200tdi chassis to a 300tdi chassis without informing DVLA? I always thought a new chassis should be a like for like replacement in terms of dimensions and things like engine mounts etc. I guess many people don't bother, but just wanted to ask before anyone spends alot of money.

Just bought myself a couple of pairs. Thanks for reminding me to do it!

Hi everyone, I normally inhabit the Defender forum.. A colleague of mine has a 2018 Discovery 5 that has covered 35k miles. He has had the car inspected by Land rover assist for a judder coming through the steering wheel and the outcome was warped discs. 2 questions: are there any other suspects? At just 35k miles could this be a warranty claim?

I like just park, I didn't know they did this as I only use it for my work car and not registered for my 110. I think it would be useful if their emails said "Hi Phil, something has fallen off your Land Rover 110. You may wish to have a look underneath"

I think I need to have a chat with you Richard when I've got mine sorted 👍

From the land rover workshop manual for standard tuning

Also, when you drain the radiator don't forget to also drain the block by undoing the block drain screw near the dipsick tube on the block. It holds quite a bit of additional liquid that otherwise would just be recirculated when you filled the system back up.

Check the trace cable from the starter relay as Western says. If that checks out fine run a jump lead from the negative battery terminal to the engine block to bypass the earth. If that works then you have a faulty earth from the battery negative terminal.

Ah right, I see. I had pictured the push rod just sat under the rocker arm, unlucky that it didn't just pop into place. As I understand it, the push rods are designed to go first to protect the valves and rocker. Good to hear its sorted.