monkie

No, just not feeding enough fuel to the injection pump. They do go. Easy to check to rule it out.

Check the fuel lift pump is working also

That is a real nice piece of work, it looks really neat and 100 times better than my old loom. I really like your idea of using a piece of board to lay it out on. I will certainly pinch that idea. Thanks for sharing

Yes. Check it feels smooth and no nasty noises of broken things. If that checks out okay, I would recheck everything suggested above. I think the capacity of the cooling system is 13 litres, but double check that in the manual.

I think you've got to go with it ad its like fighting the tide. You can get ethanol resistant fuel lines for E10 petrol. I have also read that solder such as maybe present on some floats in carbs doesn't take well to higher concentrations of ethanol. Here is a link to some fuel hose. https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/p-1295-rubber-fuel-hose-ethanol-resistant

Remove the belt and see how the pump feels by hand when you turn the pulley by hand. Did you undo the plug on top of the radiator to let the air out? Squeeze the hoses to see if coolant is in them.

Anything could happen - did it arrive in a blue box by any chance which would strongly suggest it was a part made in Britain? By top hose, I mean the hose from the thermostat housing to the radiator. When you drained the coolant to swap the pump, did you also undo the plug on the block by the oil dipstick tube so the whole cooling system was completely empty? Also did you measure how much coolant you put back in to fill it so you know it took the full capacity with no dead spots?

That is another great point. One or two have been known to fail over the years

Okay, you have confirmed the thermostat and cable operation at the heater box so you know controls are functioning correctly. You can also discount a malfunctioning fan. So the engine is running and obviously producing heat. When the engine has been running following a drive, do the coolant hoses feel hot to touch? Are you confident there is water in top hose to the radiator?

I think there are few simple checks you can make to see what's happening. I presume your cooling system including heater matrix is clean and flushed so there is no rubbish in there. Firstly - what is the opening temperature of the thermostats you have? I would also check them by putting them in a pan of water and slowly heat it up on a stove. Using a thermometer note at what temperature it starts to open to check the function. I have heard a few people comment that even new ones don't always open when they should. Next, check for airlocks in the cooling system, particularly into the heater matrix. Also worth checking the viscous fan turns freely when cold so you know it isn't binding. Finally check for the correct operation and adjustment of the heater controls so that when you move the lever to hot it is actually fully opening the flap on the heater box. Then take it for a good long drive to get it up to temperature and you should have nice warm air coming through.

Fantastic, thank you @PaulMc. I'll place an order. For the connection from main loom to engine harness I am using superseal and econoseal connectors - however for the live feed from the alternator these are not appropriate for the size wire or current. I have got some power connectors, are these suffcient or do you have any recomendations for a better connector for this application in terms of current and weather resistance?

Autosparks are out of stock of the hazard warning switch plug and the switch socket for the interior light and heated rear window switches (as in my pictures). I can't find anyone else who supplies them in the UK such as auto wiring products and AES. Does anyone else know of a stockist please?

Where did you get it from Richard? I bought some rubber fuel hose from Halfords on special order 7 or 8 years ago (I think it's Michelin) and so far it's holding up well.

Looks like most things that have spent 5 years+ under a land rover to me

Absolutely right, but as with all our DIY jobs on our land rovers it's a hobby so I'm not factoring in my time.

I understand that is standard Lucas practice. For example, brown is permanent unfused live that could feed a switch such as ignition switch. Brown with red trace goes from the ignition switch to the glow plugs in a pre tdi era diesel.

So, a new loom from Autosparks is £600 plus another £100 for the rear chassis loom. I have ordered parts for both with upgrades to a glow plug timer relay (I have the relay so not costed), relay switched dip/main beam head lights, fitting in earth wires to each corner that go back to the battery terminal and using econoseal an superseal to totally remove the old style bullet connectors. It has cost me £100 in wire plus another £60 in parts like tape, connectors, fuse box relays etc. (maybe I'll need to top up a bit as I go if I fluff something up or realise I made an error somewhere) - but I think you'll agree a significant cost saving on £700 for off the shelf. You just have to be prepared for the planning and work. I'll post some picture as I get the loom assembled, but I want to crack on now I miss not being able to drive my 110 - it's been sat on the drive loomless for over a month now.

Thanks, I haven't done as much as I'd like as work is busy (not that I'll complain about that right now). Just put the order in for all the parts. The rear window heater is fused by a 10amp fuse. I have used 2.0mm2 wire rated at 17amp.

Are you energising the glow plugs sufficiently? They would be my first line of enquiry. Are they getting power to all 4? Remove them and check they glow hot at the tips. If not, replace them with a quality make (I use Beru). I think if you sort that out you will stand a good chance of a successful cold start, and by cold I just mean a cold engine and not necessarily subzero temperatures.

Yes it was. I followed the ebay link that @Maverikposted a little while ago on this thread.

I applied some gentle pressure with pliars around the red cap, enough to create a gap to get a small screwdriver in and pop out the cap. I could then replace the cap after having a look to keep dust and dirt out. They are coated in a light oil preservative. I will show a side by side comparison with the Eurocar parts supplied one when it arrives. Both in terms of the container and the actual nozzle assembly.

The £115 injector set of nozzles from ebay arrived today (great delivery service). First impressions are good. They look genuine to me: provided in bosch plastic sealed tubes, 4 new copper washers, the markings on the nozzle are embossed not just printed, the needles are machined to a fine point. Just got to wait for the expensive one from Eurocar parts later in the week for comparison, but these ebay ones seem real to me. This feels like a weird version of antiques road show.

I'm not doubting you at all: I have tried to find some engineering papers on this subject and I can only find anecdotal evidence for this. Do you know if this has been studied and published?

Yes, on the pre Tdi engines the thick brown with red trace goes from the ignition switch to the glowplug nearest the bulkhead (cylinder 4). Edit: usually the glowplugs are fed by the brown/red to number 4 and then yellow/black carries the power to the rest in series.

Done: I have a full set of 4 "genuine" Bosch nozzles on order from ebay at £115 for the lot and also 1 nozzle at £71.22 guaranteed to be directly from Bosch via Eurocar parts. I am now just waiting for them to arrive. I will very closely inspect them under a magnifying glass, take detailed photos and post the findings on here for us all to see and discuss. I think its going to be very binary, either the ebay nozzles are fake and I have wasted £115 or maybe they are the real deal as brand new old stock and available at an absolute bargain? This is real lock down excitement.