Frax

I run 35's for years on +2 shocks and turrets, the only downside was it was not very good when towing. Moved down to 33's in the end.

I did one of these with the small dia and did as said above but put plenty of grease round the tube. This made it a lot easier to turn it when hammered in to get it to line up.

Sorry Western, must be my age, I should have known better - missed post 3 all togeather - my speed reading skills are failing

Don't know how you did that Western but think you have replied to the wrong post, also manage to squeeze in a proir post. Strange but you managed it.

Any horn will do if ye don't want to spend money, scrap yards are full of them. As for your old one - they do start to fail and just loose the sound a bit as they are blasted with dirt and water for their life and most hardly get used, then when you want them they turn limp. Not what ye need when you are looking to warn someone.

They were ordered from Turners

I may be lucky then, I had the sump off about 6 months ago and cleaned it out when I re-sealed it. It does not matter how long you leave a sump off as when yo go back under to fit it there is always a drip of oil just waiting to drop in your eyes.

The spill lines were all a bit rotten and some were split at the ends. I could not believe the valve caps as it was still running na to bad, a lot smother now though. I just hope that the metal bits from the caps came out when I changed the oil.

Well changed the valve caps today and found that there seams to been some of them changed before as they don't look the same. Never noticed when I put it beack togeather but then again I was not looking that close. This is what I found The caps are all well worn, fitted new spill pipes as well and also tightened up the cyclone breather which I found had worked it self loose.

A well that's a women or ye. good to see ye are getting to the bottom of it now though.

Thanks for that reb78, did not know about that solves that one.

You can not blame the wife for a cracked head, these things happen. I can not figure out why some one would fit a 300tdi head to a 200tdi.

300tdi head £435 from Turner Engeneering http://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?WD=head%20300tdi&PN=300Tdi%2ehtml#a690 Fitting kit £27.50 if ye get yer cash back from your returned heads

The head gasket was replaced three years ago but it could be as said the spill pipe leaking. I know I have a leak/ weep at the take off for my oil feed to pressure gauge, when I fitted it I could not get it right tight due to the fitting hitting another part of the engine. It is tight but does weep a very small amount when hot. I wonder if it is just the spill pipe leaking and spraying thined oil all over. To be honest its not that bad - It never needed topping up even after a year which is another reason it may just be the spill pipe.

Yip found them and order placed, I do not think the Land Rover ones can be that bad as my ones have done 78k and have only worn down in the last three years for some reason. I did check them when I did the rebuid three years ago and they looked fine, I can not remember how close an inspection I gave them though.

Is the spill pipe 1/8 id ? or for the young ones 3.2mm

That side of the engine is dry, are LR caps the best as I will be ordering these as I am going away for two weeks and my nearest dealer is 40 miles away.

Heater set up Western as per your instruction - Thank you.

Took my Defender into my garage today to look for an oil leak which I thought was coming from my crank shaft seal, but no it was coming from the head gasket. Thought I would re-torque the head as it has never been checked since the rebuild 3 years ago. Rocker cover removed and head bolts checked – one of them was loose – well not loose but not to torque setting. When removing the rocker cover I noticed that I require new diesel return pipes the loop to the injectors – if anyone has a part number for these let me know. Since I was in there I thought I would recheck my valve clearance which I think should be .20 mm. Only one valve was rocking and the gap looked huge and no wonder – the valve cap had worn through and all that was left was a ring. Need to replace them all now and I read on here that there are some soft ones out there that don’t last but there are also some hardened steel ones which are the ones to get. Can anyone recommend where to get a set of hardened steel ones from ? found part number ERR1158 or LJC100270 ?? big difference in price to. Thank god I just serviced her and I can only hope the any steel fragments of the old caps came out with the old oil.

Was out last night and only did about 5 miles and got this All looking good now so should be a bit warmer when I go for a good drive about.

I used stuff like this on my 90 roof with camping mats about 3 years ago and still stuck solid http://www.screwfix.com/p/evo-stik-carpet-spray-adhesive-500ml/84881

They go back in with not to much bother with some washing up liquid, the hard part is getting the bead back in, you can buy a tool to do the job though that does not cost a lot. Tool like this http://www.justkampers.com/diamond-lacing-tool-for-inserting-window-seal-trim.html

Back windows do ye mean the back or side ? if back but not door you remove a small rubber bead which sits in the window rubber then just push out. It should be on the inside - you can pop it out with a small screw driver as its got a split some where along its length.

X Eng plugs ordered now and they did cost a bit more than expected but hope I only need to order tham once.

Thanks Western - will order two as the radiator one left a while back, the plastic is not the best.