brighouse shed

thanks to all esp for how to get fronts out without taking springs offwhich is why i figured change the lot in one big goolie ache weekend

Just been crawling under my 90 to start a list of MOT needs and noticed the inner side of the outer sheath of my rear shockers have got holes in them. okay more like a sausage which has burst. as the shockers still do their bit do i need to replace them? and if so am i as well changing the coils at the same time, might as well take all the skin off my knuckles at once? i am trying to keep the truck standard as much as poss but wonder if anyone has any suggestions shiocks and coils wise, for improving it's on road behaviour.

cheers western that was nearly a very obvious tidying up the back of my roof

I am assuming that the white on all the rooves is alpine white, mines a 91 90 arles blue with white roof. though it does look more cream than the sort of white i conjure up at the thought of alpine snow etc ta

thanks all found pile of spaghetti, and now know where to get mount an going for face off unit to hopefully stop it going for a walk to the local pub.

hi all now i have sorted out the new footwell and door seals i have lost the in car entertainment/ foot wash option and so fancy fitting a cd radio unit. i can't see any obvious plug and play sockets that i can use so can anyone tell me best option i ma thinking of just connecting to earth on battery and the from the in line fuse on +ve side with another in line to the radio with a few suppressors thrown in for good measure, then mounting unit under the dash lip above the ashtray speakers thin jobbies on the bulkhead behind the seats so they dont get kicked any clever people with a better plan thanks

took my battery off this weekend for a spot of hot metal glue gun play. same problem no issue starting just the light comes on applied some more effort to tightening the battery connections, ..........cured

thanks diff reckon i am sorted

sorry it's the daft question again having run company cars for 25 years the last car playing was a fiat 132 so technical stuff way beyond at moment. my question i see lots of big chunky tyres on defenders on seemingly normal wheels so when does the tyre become too big for the rim, as some i see look like balloons yet still work. i remember fitting 185/70x13HR on my fiat and the whole thing shimmied on every corner. This was obviously not right but with a defender i am not gonna throw it into a corner so where's the break point? thanks

just thought the following links may be useful regarding wheels fitted to landys and tyre dimensions would like to claim exhaustive search etc but stumbled on it looking for 1 tonne wheel packages original tyres dims and nearest 185/70x16 equivalent: http://members.shaw.ca/jbarge/britishtires.html wheel part no.s and all dims: http://members.shaw.ca/red90/roverwheels.html

hi diff that's ace tried last night but could only find split rims and alloys on my search though knowing about 1 tonne wheels would have helped thanks brighouse

Diff thanks that makes it pretty clear, guess i am sticking for the time being with lickle tyres, unless i can find a 7 inch version of standard wheels.

first thought is how will the computer know?

never thought of that one another trip to paddocks then

hey it making sense increased gearing might be good i reckon each gear number is mph you should shift at so raising it may be an idea

retroanaconda bit out of loop but if you drive as 2nd driver do you accrue any no claims discount? also when is the drop for sensible young people? i know that now i am aver 45 any insurance is really low like 280 pa on a fresh from factory saab convertible..........gotta be some pay back for the dribbling, creaking joints and ....oh .....whatever that other thing is...hmmm

now it makes sense so 225s for me

thanks for the reply but not got a clue on tyres so what is 7.50 i assume this is inches but that would be only 200mm and the 5.5 would be 140mm sorry for being a bit thick what size should i look at? thanks

about eight in two hundred yards of me, no real problems but all fitted with disklocks and those with rear wheels on door mother of motorbike lock threaded thru wheel. Personally my rear wheel wont loosen the nuts even with a six foot bar extension so good luck as i need to get the thing off for my new wheels. Won't stop them taking the door off, but a laugh as last bolt gives and the door takes the toe rag out. Also only one with stereo fitted but face off unit. where i live it's spotty kids so reckon their Nofriendo DS tuned bodies would snap using the clutch. unless it's worth shed loads my feeling is there is always someone else who's done the same work, probably better, as i have and the price will be what i paid for mine anyway. sorry if you love yours but don't get too stressed about losing it As they all say "it's no point being paranoid they'll get you in the end"

did i miss something? admittedly i am an old git, 46 years, but company car driver of 22 years with no claims in last seven years. went to go compare Co-op £187 with wife 2nd driver £100 excess. Slight cock up as didn't know my no claims was not for all my cars so defender is no no claims but get intro discount. if i had not the company car then 156 Car is no mods std '91 200td defender 90 left outside. daughter of 17 will be extra 700 as and when she passes test. it may be that specialist insurers are ace on std kit but know once you start talking winches, wading kit raised suspension etc they know what sort of weekend activity you are into so start loading it. Whilst normal focus, vectra insurers see only an old truck so miss out the recreational side of land rovers. don't know to be honest

sorry if it's been asked before i have a 1991 90 200Tdi hardtop pretty much as it left the factory. i want to change the tyres as the 205/60 x 16s on it avon ranger are a bit silly looking and have only about 4mm of tread so i am looking at a set of A/Ts cos my main use is snow and taking my dogs out so as to leave normal cars clean and un dented. My thought is Goodrichs as had them years ago on a daihatsu in 235/85 x 16 but i want to keep the original cream wheels so can anyone tell me what i can fit and also can i use one of my old tyres as a get you home spare?

Hi usual drivers footwell rotting except mine is going from the top the bottom being solid. the only rotten bit is the top piece above the section with cutouts for the pedals plus the side panel next to the door my questions 1. should i cut it all as one piece and put 10mm tabs along the edges to weld to good metal. 2. there are some bolt fittings which the footwell does not seem to have any contact to, should it actually be fastened in by these? thanks

thanks for that, good advice realise need to look at bigger power, as the man says the manufacturers claims are somewhat optimistic. my experience was with full industrial kit where the new lightweight stuff was hobarts 300 series. reckon i need a 135 ish for panels etc

another new to land rover ownership mine is a 1991 90 200tdi fairly solid but has footwell needing bit of remedial, namely side panel from door post and top section above pedal box coming onto bulkhead. my other bits are battery box, bit under drivers seat which need small plating areas it's 20 odd years since i welded but am off to buy a mig set and wonder for general bodywork if anyone has some advice on current typically used either with gas or with cored wire. my mate has a very nice 300A industrial transmig unit with pulsing cooling etc which will be ace for my chassis in years to come but with my skill will be great for acting as a plasma cutter on my floor etc thanks