Lars L

A quickie this time : Anybody know the diameter of the exhaust pipe on a Td? 60 mm as on 200 Tdi, perhaps? I'll have to knock up a special and the Td front pipe seems to be the cheapest to buy.

Man, that was a serious reply!

Well, newer cars have this thingy in one piece, but on older ones, it's a separate t-connection made in metal. The part no was taken from my parts book and pointed to the connection in question. But that can naturally has been changed over the years.

Book says NRC4843 Connector. That's it, really.

Thanks, probably what I expected. The difference compared to my present 2,5 n/a will most likely be noticed anyway.

Nope, I'm renewing among other things all the bearings on the crank. Which as the book says, might "disturb" the protrusion of the slugs. The old pistons are however meant to go back, just changing the rings and dressing up the bores. By using the thickest gasket, I could order all necessary parts in one go, not having to wait a couple of weeks for a gasket after having measured properly.

A new question again... But since this is the forum with the highest degree of know-how, it's also the place to ask about the tricky matters. I do however try to contribute whenever I can. The 200 Tdi engines use, as some may know, three different head gaskets depending on the protrusions of the pistons. The big Q is - does it really matter that much in real life? Can't I just get away with the thickest one and still be quite happy with the performance? Or, will the slightly lower compression be noticed?

It could just be that it's solid due to lack of use. So, arm yourself with a can of WD-40 and crawl underneath, spray the levers and try rocking to free it.

OK, thanks! I managed to measure the bigends and got it to 58,75 mm, which is almost what it's supposed to be on a new crank. So standard it is!

I have taken my 200Tdi engine apart and would like to know if the crank still is standard or reground. The bearing shells have the part number still visible, but when checking at "the usual" none of these numbers show up. The reason is perhaps that they have been changed during the years. Main shells are ETC6422, bigend shells are ERC8841.

Yes, that's normal. As it acts on the camshaft, the engine has stopped when the camlobe is at its highest position. Flick the starter to move it a bit, but remember that the cam just makes one revolution while the crank makes two.

I experienced his juddering before slowing down at low speed on my old 109. It turned out to be the rear bearing in the transfer box wobbling around. Cured by taking off a few shims. Check by rocking the propshaft at the brake drum.

Since my 110 has the correct filter housing I opted for going through the top when I made my snorkel. But mine is LHD, which makes it a bit easier, no heater in the way. The filter housing is already easy to attach a 3" hose onto and secure with a hose clamp. I have had my snorkel on and off from time to time. Now it's off due to the extreme induction noise a N/A diesel makes. From the beginning I had a scoop pointing forwards, but after getting a proper Cooper top, the noise is pointed directly to the cab roof making it almost impossible to drive without hearing protection. Could change when I get my Tdi transplanted with the turbo making the induction roar quieter.

Splasher from Steve P is already in my 110's boxes.

Thanks guys for putting me off this idea! I thought that it could save me some time by renovating the loose box so it just could be switched over. Want as little downtime as possible on my preferred means of transportation, see...

Just what I wanted to know. I think the Disco transferbox will be a bit too long legged, so I'll probably be out hunting for a 1,4 as in a Defender when the time comes. At first I will just lift over the engine and drive around with my 1,67 gearing.

The gearbox in my 110 is a bit rattly and a few more noises have evolved lately. As I have bought myself a Disco as a donor of a 200Tdi, maybe I could get some use of its gearbox too. It has an LT77 as well, but AFAIK with some differences to my 110 box - bellhousing, gearlever mechanism and input shaft. correct so far? Please fill in if otherwise. My plan would be to overhaul the innards of the Disco box, then when it's time to shift it, move over the necessary parts from the 110 box and install it. Is this possible, or are there more differences that make it a no-no?

Thanks for your concern, Ralph But these have already been changed to some softer kind that don't transfer noise and vibrations like the standard ones. Made quite a difference regarding noises and rumble in the almost empty hardtop.

Thanks, Lewis! BTW, I've been to Gaydon... B)

Seen this? http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=12118

And related (sorry for hijacking ) as I am going to convert from 2,5 n/a to 200 Tdi... Will the original exhaust system strangle the new engine so I'd better get one for a 200Tdi Defender?

Well, today I removed the foam pack from around the gearlevers and drove a bit. It actually seems that the gearbox is getting a little too rattly... It might be the box that's causing the noises. But, I have just bought myself a '94 Disco as a donor of a 200 Tdi, will look closer when it's time to shift.

I have had this issue on another forum for a while, but since the knowledge base seems to have a bit more quality over here... There is this ticking noise from what at first seemed to come from the engine. It can be heard when stepping lightly on the accelerator and on light engine braking, but when adjusting the pedal just to run along it goes away. It's also only heard when driving in gear and never when running the engine in neutral. But when changing gear, it is there when the engine revs drop and also if I depress the clutch and rev the engine. When giving "full welly" it also goes away. I have a feeling that it has increased a bit lately and has become a light clacking sound as well as a light roughness at very low revs. And sometimes there is a "ringing" noise from below. This has made me suspect that the noise might come from a worn bush at the end of the crank, causing the gearbox pinion to jump around. Anybody that can shed some light on this?

Well, if the one from the donor fits (or can be made to fit), I seem to have what's needed. The Disco isn't delivered yet, will have a good look at things when I get it.

And John Craddock 328.76... + VAT.