Lars L

And now we are only waiting to see you change it on a LHD.

Nope, the hole is for the wading plug which is meant to keep water out of the clutch. You don't need one unless you drive in deep water. I'm not sure for the V8, but for other Landys, a BSP1/4" plug fits and can be had for almost nothing at a plumber.

Is this the same for a 200 Tdi as well?

And, being you, I suppose you leave a gap between the breaker bar and chassis before you flick the starter? So the starter can gain a wee bit of momentum before it goes bang? Yeah, silly me... Making sure that the breaker bar is not flexing? If you come over, you can borrow my spanner with a 2" wide handle.

Morten, I've already told you all I know. Niklas, Check that the idle speed is adjusted on the little lever with adjusting screw at the front end on the pump. Adjusting on the throttle wire makes it idle like an old Scania Regent.

I talked to the guy over the phone just now. He fitted the caster correction bushings because the steering was vague after the lift. Since then he has driven his Disco for some 100.000 kms without any problems with vibrations. Then suddenly they appear and the rear u-joint is almost fully angled. And yes, when he takes the prop off there are no vibes any more. As said before, the rear rubber mountings at the transfer box may be knackered as the boxes seem to tilt down at the rear. Anyway, I have suggested that he checks all the bushings for the front axle, they could possibly be worn and cause the axle to tilt too much.

I saw...

To follow up - we have tried another prop, the one from my donor Disco. Does really raising only 2" cause the prop to "bend" this much? He has driven for years before without problems. Has anybody a chance to just crawl under their Disco to see if the box is parallell to the chassis? Sorry, not too much of them around here, otherwise I could check myself...

I have posted this on the Disco forum, 29 have looked, no reply. Maybe better attention here? A mate has a 300 Tdi manual Disco with serious vibration issues. A while ago, the transferbox gave up and he installed a second hand one. At first everything was fine, but suddenly this vibration developed. The Disco is raised 2" and he has installed a caster correction set. When it is parked on level ground, the rear u-joint on the front propshaft is almost at its limit, while the front on is almost straight. The rear yoke is more or less touching the drive member half of the joint. I also noticed that it seems like the gearboxes sit low at the rear end, when looking from the side they are not parallell with the chassis. I have no Tdi to compare with, but on my V8, the box is level to the chassis. Can someone with a manual 300 Tdi just check how one should look? Then there also was some play in the front drive member, so a bearing change is on the to-do-list.

A mate has a 300 Tdi manual Disco with serious vibration issues. A while ago, the transferbox gave up and he installed a second hand one. At first everything was fine, but suddenly this vibration developed. The Disco is raised 2" and he has installed a caster correction set. When it is parked on level ground, the rear u-joint on the front propshaft is almost at its limit, while the front on is almost straight. The rear yoke is more or less touching the drive member half of the joint. I also noticed that it seems like the gearboxes sit low at the rear end, when looking from the side they are not parallell with the chassis. I have no Tdi to compare with, but on my V8, the box is level to the chassis. Can someone with a manual 300 Tdi just check how one should look? Then there also was some play in the front drive member, so a bearing change is on the to-do-list.

Makes a lot of sense that, Sir!

Makes me wonder... You say that it cranks OK but doesn't start. My Disco V8 -97 didn't crank when the spider fouled up. I took it off and replaced it with Land Rover part No AMR4956. Which is a plug with some cables to get it sorted once and for all. A stop gap fix on mine was to leave ignition on for a few minutes and it started.

Tension on the square hole for the cambelt tensioner should be 18-20 Nm. At least on a Disco engine, I might add... Done that today, see.

I have put a Turner gas flowed head on my n/a, made quite a difference I must say regarding torque and stamina. But not enough to be able to take any higher gearing. So what I'm currently doing is 200 Tdi-ing since I happened to stumble on a cheap Disco.

As it is a military 110 with a 2,5 n/a it has a 1,67 transfer case. It will never pull a Disco 1,22, believe me! I even got fed up with 255/85 tyres, way peppier when I got back to 235/85. Sort of...

I'm kinda interested so I'll check.

Tiger, Since you asked... Maybe I have a different belt pulley than you have, mine is military with two grooves. My bolt is not standard, it has a rather thick hex head and the spanner is a bit angled. What can I say? It works. And the spanner has been used previously on SIII engines without any problem.

I have used a ring/open end spanner several times. Latest today for undoing the bolt on my n/a diesel. Put it a few inches from the chassis rail, second starter flick was successful. That spanner doesn't flex at all...

Thanx, just what I'm about to do as well.

I took my 2,5 NAD out after just removing the radiator. After all, there are only a few bolts to get it out. The front panel was still there, one of the cagenuts is just spinning, see.

Since crank seal is the subject... I have bought Allmakes gasket sets for my 200 Tdi and as the rear crank seal is something I only like to do once, I specifically ordered an extra one to be sure to get one of OEM type. The one I got was exactly like the one I had lying around packed in a Britpart bag. The variant made in aluminium, green and with a former to keep the shape. Makes me kinda doubtful... In the gasket set, there was one looking as a normal seal, and in red brick colour. So now is the question - which one should I use?

Well, don't ask me. I wrote in good faith what I read in a motor trade magazin. Won't keep me awake at night though, that's for sure. I believe I have done my part. The commercials for Toyota Prius says that one saves a ton of CO2 compared to a "normal" car. I have changed the heating system in my house from fuel oil to wood pellets, that will save some 10-12 tons per year. So, I'll just keep on driving my Landies.

Easy enough to calculate. Fuel consumption in litres per 100 km multiplied with 24 for petrol engines and 27 for a diesel gives CO2 i grams per km.

Since your gross vehicle weight (GVW) obviously shows as 2400 kg, the 6400 could be the max permissible train weight. I.e. together with a trailer weighing max 4000 kg. Which sounds a bit much to me... I really don't know the definite answer, just my own theory.

The diameter of the 265/75 is almost the same as a 235/85 which in turn is approx 32". 265 mms section width is approx 10,5".