Lars L

I don't have any diagram, but it's ever so simple. On mine, with the valves on the winch, each solenoid valve has two cables. One of the respective cables are real short and attached to a ground bolt on the winch. The other two are connected to the socket. Which also is the case for the live feed. The hand control only has three wires, one live and the other two goes to each solenoid. There's not much that can go wrong, only the winch going backwards when wrong solenoid is activated. If so, just shift cables.

Nothing to write home about here... But the weather forecasts are talking about heavy snowfall accompanied with traffic problems and eventual power shortages on Thursday. B) Looking forward to that - we have planned a get-together with some guys from Norway driving on uncleared forest roads on Friday.

Perhaps if they also incorporate some valve thingy that shuts off or opens at some specified circumstance... Anyway, routing some kind of "open hose" into the manifold doesn't sound right to me. The PCV valve on your engine was later discarded on the Series engines and "something else" which looks like a tee piece replaced it. From what I've been able to find out from the Green Bible... If I was in your shoes, I would simply take the hose from the engine block and shove it into the air cleaner. That's how it worked on my Volvo engined GAZ and on my SIII. Without any problems, I might add.

Of course, leaving the crankcase ventilation open is not an "approved" method, but just for testing I can't see any problem. And for avoiding a pressure buildup in the engine during the tests. It should be routed so the fumes are burnt up, but plugging into the manifold sounds like a bad idea and will probably disturb the adjustment of the carb. Somewhere before the carb but after the air filter would IMHO be the best solution.

You wrote that you blanked off the crankcase ventilation, no wonder that the oil started seeping then Leave 'em open, man! And, isn't there some gizmo in the bottom of the carb where you can adjust the fuel mixture. Changing needles is AFAIK (and that may not be the full truth) if you like to change the fueling "along the line". For example if the mixture is OK on idle, but insufficient at higher revs. Anyway, this applies to Zenith-Stromberg and perhaps also to SU.

Obviously you'll lose visibility in certain angles, but you'll get used to it. And reverse out from an angled parking with caution. It's anyway a lot better than mine which is closed behind the doors. Otherwise it's fine and you'll use the mirrors a lot more than you may be used to. There are also small, circular mirrors than can be glued to the existing one for an extended view. How I survived driving my LHD in UK roundabouts when I picked it up is still a mystery...

Todd, FWIW, my 109 didn't have that fancy setup for the crankcase ventilation, even though it had a "modern" 5 brg engine. Just a hose from the engine to the elbow on top of the carb. Maybe your engine runs like carp because you keep some of the stuff only? Also, is it registered as a light truck? In that case you don't have to worry about breaking any anti pollution regulations, they are only valid for passenger cars. BTW, picked up my new 265/75s today and made a trial fit. So my LR will look as a J**p too. B)

Yes!

Sweden, but quite far from the Polar Circle...

Don't have any kind of headlining, but a carpet on the floor. 1195 mm so maybe 1200 if I remove the carpet.

My 2p worth... And you can consider this as a reply to the same topic elsewhere. The reasons for these low viscosity oils are two. One is because the oil pump can't handle a high viscosity oil in cold climate. The other one is the construction of the gear syncros, mainly second gear. The syncro rings need to grip on the gears and when the oil is too thick it can't "escape" quickly enough and there will be grating when shifting. Mineral based ATF is fine for these reasons and it was the oil that was available at the time when LT77 was launched. But it has rather poor lubricating properties so there have been newer oils developed over time with better properties. The viscosity, in transmission oil terms, is in the region of 70W up to 80. And there are several brands to choose from, where MTF94 is the one Land Rover is recommending. I personally use Redline MTL in my LT77 and is quite happy with that.

Answers flowing in when it gets dark... Thanks! Yes, I kinda figured that it should go in, just wanted to be assured. I have started with half a turn today, so far no black clouds. More screwing tomorrow! Oh yes, I'm in search for a bit more oomph. Treated myself to a brand new Turner gas flowed head, see. And as this is supposed to get more air in, I also expect that more fuel is needed. Your tip about the injectors is interesting, do you know of a reason why these increase power? Apart from the fact that they do?

Well, it isn't exactly a Defender, but an ex-MoD One Ten... On the injection pump, towards the engine is the adjustment screw for fuel delivery. Can anybody tell me which way it goes to get more fuel (and smoke )? In or out?

Speedglas gets my vote too. Not least because the company is a customer of my business and hence helps in paying the bills for fuel, parts etc for my Landies.

It is probably a thermostat for a Saab. And yes, thay are the same size as LR ones so they fit. Just check so it has that wiggly pin that lets air escape when you fill up with water/antifreeze! The rubber thingy is the gasket, as in gaskets for more modern vehicles... So, bin the "gasket" and get a proper one for your Landy.

Pressing flies? Sorry...

Jon, This might, or might not, be of any help to you. I had Trac Edges 235/85 on Wolfs on my One Ten and had the stop bolts adjusted as per instructions. Which means the recommended clearance between tyre and radius arms. I then changed the tyres to Cooper S/T 255/85 and have, until now, never given the bolts the slightest thought. Anyhow, there hasn't been any rubbing since I changed the tyres, so I suppose all is well.

Over here (Sweden) ethanol pumps pops up at more and more petrol stations. The fuel that's being sold is called E85 - 85% booze and 15 % leadfree petrol. The latter to enable cold starts as alcohol doesn't vapourize enough. A mate has a carb Range Rover that's been on the stuff for some years now. And he has had some problems, be sure. But nowadays it seems to get on fine after fiddling with the metering needles in the carbs and timing trials. The energy content is a bit lower than petrol so the consumption goes up and the octane rating is higher so an earlier spark is possible to enhance performance. But since the price of E85 is way lower than for petrol, a bit lower MPG can be accepted. But - the lower price is because the stuff isn't heavily taxed as petrol is, so just wait until the government finds that a lot of people can drive cheaper than before. I have tried it in the Disco by mixing up to 40% E85 and 60% lead free. No difference at all in performance or starting. Still haven't checked if its economical MPG wise. However, there are some safety issues that have emerged lately. Ordinary petrol doesn't burn when there is too much vapour, only when approximately correct mixed with oxygen. So if a fire starts during fillup (by static etc) it will only burn at the filler neck and is rather easy to put out. Alcohol on the other hand, happily burns and more or less explodes in the tank. A quick runaway is recommended Edited to say that this fuel isn't here just for us DIY freaks, several new cars that automatically senses what fuel is in the tank are readily available, for instance Ford Focus that's being sold to a lot of communties.

Todd, you worry too much. Relax, man!

First, check that your rockers aren't worn, i.e. the surface that pushes the valve stem. Sometimes they wear in a U shape so when you're inserting the feeler gauge you bridge over it and get a gap that's too big. In my mind, I can't see why a push rod should have been bent, but there is a rather complicated bunch of thingies further down at the cam with rollers etc. They can apparantly be worn flat here and there and cause a tapping noise. I've had this "once in a revolution" ticking in my diesel for three years now, never been able to trace it...

Or that the corners of the square end have been rounded off. This happened to me, difficult to see, but a new speedo cable sorted it.

I suppose you know that the drive gear on the outgoing shaft is only squeezed in place? So if the drive member on the brake drum is too loose, the gear will slide on the shaft. That was once an easy fix on my "late" 109

Another good question is why one gets a RH mudflap for a 90 when a LH one for a 110 is correctly ordered from Britpart? Or why two of the steel rings for brake calipers are smaller than the other two in the repair kit? And when getting a replacement kit only one is smaller? Well, an improvement anyway So, check yer spares before dismantling!

The bump stops only halt the upward travel, good ol' boy, lower shock towers allow the axle to drop more. And suprisingly, as I found on the rear of my 110, lower upper mountings still didn't permit the dampers to compress fully any sooner than the bump stops. So, apart from more drop, there is also more travel to be gained. I've had one of those black cans from Germany, might consider one more!

First post on the new forum, and it's a correction The N/A and Td are not a bored out version of the 2,25. Instead, a new crank made the stroke longer. Which in turn also added some more torque and stamina compared with the old 'un. Am i right, or am I right? B)