Lars L

Nothing wrong at all. Paddock lists them at 263.83 + VAT...

Thanks all, It seems that the Disco rad will be the one, then. And Abe, Paddock's is already among the preferred takers of my heavily taxed money

I've bought myself a 200 Tdi Disco as an engine donor for my 2,5 n/a One Ten. When checking for radiators with room for the intercooler, I find that one for a 200 Tdi Def is frightingly expensive and that one for a 300 Tdi is a lot less so. Can anybody explain the difference and if I can use the newer one for my upgrade together with the Disco intercooler?

They can be adjusted, but you'll have to take off the top of your dash to get to them. Once there, they can be split and there is a little metal tonge you can bend back to get them tight again. It clears when you see them.

Mine, some years ago. The picture is on an OZ web site, and poor quality. The rig is, AFAIK, now in Toronto, Canada.

You can take whatever connection you want if you also change the plug on the remote lead and as long as it has at least three pins/'oles. I changed to a 3-pin boatdeck connection, made in chromed brass and with a threaded cap with rubber gasket to close it off when not in use. Bought here in Sweden, but I'm sure you can find something similar in "fine shops everywhere". Edited for clarity. Link to pic and description (in Swedish ): http://www.biltema.se/products/product.asp?iItemId=89599

No, this is another one. Steve's was/is red.

Well, as the text on Ebay says, it's built in Sweden by Grip Kaross. Many trucks in the early 50s were delivered as a chassi with bonnet and front fenders so a domestic body could be built. Might have something to do with taxation or lack of foreign money shortly after the war. There was a writeup in LRO a while ago when Steve Graham picked one up in northern Sweden.

Rostyles are 6"... And aftermarket Wolf wheels are 6,5".

The gasket in the pump is not that difficult to change, just a bit fiddly to get everything in position when assembling. It sure needs bleeding afterwards as the housing is filled with fuel. The gasket is a "square o-ring" that sits in a groove in the lid and might need to be held in place with a few drops of gasket goo during assembly. If the pump leaks around the shaft, it's most common that the shaft itself is worn so changing o-rings only isn't always the cure. A tip that was given to me when I had a "diesel specialist" to change it, was to buy a shaft for some Peugeot as it was a lot cheaper than one for a Land Rover but use the original spring. That was however here in Sweden, in the UK that can be a different matter...

If it's a "normal" 2,25D there is no vacuum pump... But, there is a butterfly in the induction manifold that has to be properly adjusted to be able to create vacuum when the accelerator is released. Don't know the procedure in detail, but it's in all the workshop manuals.

Well, you're safe then. Both the battery cable and the one from the alternator are already on the same post on the relay, right? The cable to the starter will be energised only if you turn the key to the starting position. But for safety's sake, insulate the end.

Crank start, then... B)

Nope! They are completely different, if I'm not wrong the petrol version has two bolts and the diesel has three.

The grease is almost liquid, so if your balls (...) got a drainplug, most of it will pour out. A rinse with oil takes care of the rest. Well, that is what I did...

And when you have opened the back door and lifted the trailer in place, you can't close the door because the trailer's parking brake handle gets in the way.

My 2p: I changed the front springs from standard to HD some years ago. The combined weight of the spare wheel and a MM up front was too much. The HD springs lifted the front, measured at the bumper, by 40 mm. In my experience, the change was 100% positive with way better behaviour especially on small and windy gravel roads. Much better steering precision and it wasn't too hard either, just a better "feel". These springs, and the dampers have later been changed to softer OME spring and HD OME dampers.

Dish washer...

Since the thread in the other forum has turned into an mpg debate, I'll continue here. The n/a is indeed a diesel, so don't expect any brisk acceleration. But it has a certain determination that isn't found in a petrol engine. Due to the fact that a diesel doesn't have any throttle butterfly, the reaction is instant when you push a little on the go pedal. The Turner head also made it a new engine. It maintains speed a lot better uphill on the open road, and is not that much of a nuisance for other traffic any more. The most common speed limit here is some 55 mph and that is reached fairly swift. It's impossible for me to know what the head made in hp and lbs/feet, but the difference is way more than I had expected.

There are double relays around, i.e. two relays under one cover. No real advantage in use except for appearance perhaps.

Yes, perhaps... As you may have noticed, "everything" is shut off the moment you engage glow plugs and starter in order to give them all there is to get. Not so with the fuel solenoid as it has to be open all the time. But, if it's going to create any problem is beyond me.

Problem solved! Many thanks to Militantgraham over at ORRP! B)

Well, if that's the case, you're very lucky. Go buy yourself a Lotto ticket!

My NATO light switch is on its way out and I like to get rid of the panel in the middle of the dash. Can somebody explain the wiring on the switch or point me somewhere on the net where I can find a diagram?

You wouldn't believe the kind of vibrations mud on the wings of a front mounted fan can cause!