Lars L

Read here: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...mp;#entry128269

Cold it will be, then. Thanks.

Since "2" has a male spade connector, I strongly assume that this is where the current feed goes. The female "1" is to the sender. I hope...

Valve adjustment on a 2,25 can, according to label on cover, be made with engine hot or cold. But what's recommended on a 200Tdi? The workshop manuals I have mention nothing about this.

The 200Tdi exhaust on my 110 is 58-60 mm. And it was 47-50 mm when it had the 2,5 NAD. Measures vary on different pieces, maybe because some come from Allmakes and some from S**tparts.

Judging from your nick, you were at the Gudvangen meet... When I registered my narrow track in your eastern naboland, the easiest way was to get it as unbraked. I didn't think that there was a chance to get hold of any documentation. The brakes are still there though and fully functional. But you have other speed limits in Norway than we have, right?

The tank on my -86 110 started dripping, so I have bought a new one from Paddock. The tank is of the exquisite Britparts manufacture... And in two parts, there is also a cradle to fit underneath the actual tank. The cradle is a bit too short, actually ½" when compared to the tank itself, and it's also bent a little out of the contours of the tank. Well, it seems as it will be an interesting time trying to get things in place. Has anybody else here had the "pleasure" of getting one of these in place? Will it fit when I'm actually there or shall I try to get the old one off the leaking tank to use instead? At least, the old one fits. Any help and so on...

OEM/Genuine is my advice! It doesn't have to say "Land Rover" all over the package, Lucas Girling makes them anyway.

Oh yes, the air expands as well. But it's at least compressable, something the water isn't.

I thought the idea of the expansion tank being there was to avoid that? As it's only half full (or empty for the pessimistic guys) the air compresses when the pressure builds up and avoids water being pushed out.

Yep, more or less what I have concluded myself. I have run it with the 8 psi cap for about 10.000 kms since the conversion and all seems to be well. Temp is only rising when the engine is working hard or when driving at walking pace and the fan kicks in to cool it. OK, I'll find myself a 15 psi cap and switch over as it has the correct relief pressure for the engine. Wonder if that will make the poor gasket on the block plug leak even more? And yes, I have worked at service stations for several years and also opened caps on boiling engines. Using the necessary caution...

What difference does the cooling system pressure actually do? Reason for asking is that I have converted from 2,5 NAD to a 200 Tdi from a Disco and have kept the original expansion tank. The original cap is marked 8 psi and the cap on the Disco's plastic tank says 15 psi. Caps for V8 seem to be 15 psi as well, so I could just change the cap on my present tank. Question is what practical benefit I would see if I changed?

I couldn't find any prices... At least here (Sweden) it's cheaper to buy a brand new turbo from Paddock's than to have the old one overhauled or exchanged by the leading domestic expert.

According to my workshop manual, "Owner's edition", the oil pressure for all 4-cyl engines should be 35-65 psi with warm engine and at 2000 rpm.

I bought myself one with a NPT1/8 thread, works fine for me.

OK, serious lack of know on my part. However, you misunderstood the relay thing, it's not meant to govern the full load from the battery cable, only the fuel solenoid. But that doesn't matter anymore...

Pardon me for evenually being thick here, but why do you want a separate cable for the solenoid? If your switch kills the electrics on the battery cable, the solenoid will be killed along with everything else. Or does it still get juice from the alternator even if the battery connection is broken? Well, I don't know... If that's the case, wire in a small relay where the mains connection is taken from the battery. Like this, in Bosch numbering: 30 +battery 85 - earth 86 ignition switch 87 solenoid That way the relay will close when ignition is on, but lose it's power when the FIA switch is off. Please correct me if I'm wrong, it has happened from time to time...

Well, actually not. There must be a quite exact proportion of oxygen to make it go up in flames. There is way too much fuel vapours and too little air in the tank. Luckily...

EdF, what year is your Landy? My 110 from -86 has a really hard clutch pedal, while the clutch of my mate's -97 110 300Tdi is very light. I think I've read somewhere that a newer clutch pedal can be installed on an older Landy...

A Td5 has no belt...

I can second that. The Turner head and some fiddling with the fuel adjuster on the pump made a considerable difference on my 2,5 n/a. But the head isn't exactly cheap so saving for a 200Tdi could be a better idea.

One thing I heard from a guy in Norway (with a 6 cyl in his RR) is that one problem is that heat rises in the engine when it's turned off. According to him, a small electric and thermostat governed pump that circulates the hot water away from the heads should solve that problem. I only write what I heard, no hands on...

I stand corrected then...

And since your 90 is of 1986 vintage, there is no side wing vent. That came with the 200Tdi around 1990. As yours clearly has been converted, what aircleaner do you have? If it's the old one from a petrol/2,5 NAD, it's of course possible to route a hose from that to the snorkel. But - you have to make the hole in the wing yourself and possibly also get the bits that your snorkel is supposed to attach to. I made my own snorkel from 2,5" pipe but made a hole on top of the wing just ahead of the bulkhead. Attached by a flexible hose going to the Disco airbox which sits on the LH side.

Longer pipes don't seem to cause any problems if done wisely. I have put a 200Tdi from a Disco into my 110 and the donor had a big intercooler of unknown origin. It is of full width and with a pipe in each upper corner. I have run a pipe from the turbo (which sits on the LH side) to the RH side i/c inlet and have taken the shorter route into the intake manifold. After a run, the pipe from the turbo is a bit hot. I can touch it by hand so maybe 50-60°C, while the pipe into the engine is stone cold. In order to have the turbocharger a chance to do what it's supposed to, I've also connected the wastegate hose to a nipple in the intake instead of directly after the turbo outlet.