Lars L

To add to what Bill is writing, the O-rings aren't exactly square. They are in fact a bit wedged on the inside, so installing them the right way around is of importance to get them to seal properly. Even the lid itself can leak as there is no gasket. A little gasket goo on the surfaces can make a difference.

Clutch that's not doing its job properly. Something in the hydraulics is my guess.

OK, thanks! I'll have a look then some day...

And how do you know it's at standard setting? I'd like to know because I don't know if my pump has been played around with. The big intercooler in the donor vehicle could mean that...

On my 200Tdi with a full width i/c, the inlet is on the RH side. Across the engine room is an alu pipe and after a drive it's still possible to touch it with a bare hand. Not for too long, though. I have also tried a plastics pipe and it "survived". Problem was however that it collapsed when tightening the hose clamps... Good thing is that the outlet to the engine is stone cold to touch, must mean that the i/c does a good job.

I've recently done the same conversion and I must say that there is something else than the fan not being 100% effective. Mine has a leccy fan with a thermoswitch, but it never starts in normal traffic. Only when going slow in low gear or on steep and long hills.

A good and easy to understand writeup here: Courtesy of fisha on ORRP

Re #1, on early engines the book says to use silicone sealant in a special pattern. But nowadays there is a proper gasket to use. That was at least the case on my Disco engine and I suppose the same goes for a Def.

Could well be, too modern for me...

The old engine was (still is ) indeed a 2,5 NAD. With that comes a 1,67 transfercase. The Td5 version is, like all diesel Defenders 1,41. The revs at approx 55 mph (legal speed limit on many roads here) is almost 3000 now, will drop to something around 2500 with the newer transfer. And make first gear useful again.

That was what I thought (and hoped) too.

Is there any difference in size of propshaft flanges between a transfer box for a Td5 Defender compared to the present one in my old One Ten? After engine change to a 200Tdi, it's undergeared and I have found a box at a reasonable cost. So, will my props fit the newer box?

I bought a gas flowed head for my 2,5 NAD from Turner. The sender on this head had the same threads as my newly installed 200 Tdi. And showed what it should on the dash. Maybe you could call them and ask if it's sold separately?

Since "the real thing" isn't that important, he has already made a mess of the S1 by using lots of modern parts, do you think that a master for an early SII could be made to fit? They sure look the same but there could be some difference in the mounting flange or something else making it a no go. As been said, the pipe dimensions might be different, but I'm sure that can be fixed. Or am I jumping to conclusions again?

Craddock has the repair kit and Dunsfold can supply a complete unit - at £150 +VAT. But the remains are in good shape, so new seals will probably do the trick.

I think I found it myself. Looked in my Haynes for SII and SIII and it seems that it's more or less the same as the CB master.

I've been engaged in finding a repair kit for the brake master on a 1953 Series 1. The owner is an old guy, well over 80, so I just couldn't say no and promised that I should order a kit from Craddock. The cylinder was already in pieces and I can't really see how it should work. Is there someone out here that could post a drawing and/or explain a bit? Another "fixer" has also been involved previously and he says that when applying air pressure, nothing bled out from the wheel cylinders. Which makes me wonder why.

What Les said... I bought myself a couple of s-haped tailpipes for a Volvo and a friend made a 60 mm hole in a piece of 10 mm sheetmetal to be used as the flange. Only one of the bends needed to be cut out to get a steeper curve, the rest were used as they were. Not that complicated really, just lots of diving underneath for checking and rechecking. Since welding isn't one of my best merits, I just tacked the pipes together and handed over the final job to my son who works at a body shop.

Lots of useful replies here... AFAIK, Land Rover doesn't publish any curves. The most recent one I've seen is for the 1,6 S1 engine. But then, I haven't seen it all (yet).

Since you wrote all feedback... I have no experience with their petrol engine heads, but I got myself one for my 2,5 NAD. The head together with some tweaking of the pump did wonders. It pulled much stronger than before and kept the speed uphill where it previously used to drop considerably.

In Scandinavia it's sometimes so cold that we empty the engines and run them without oil. When it's time to drain is seen when the polarbears stay inside in front of the fire and don't go out in the streets as they normally do. No, 10W-something is mostly fine and in extreme temps, synthetic oils are available from 0W. Blockwarmers are also common to use to get the fluids a little more user friendly.

My One Ten is again on the road after having got an engine transplant in form of a 200 Tdi from a Disco. The same Disco also kindly donated power steering and a set of alu rims. The write ups and pics by Les Henson, Les Brocklehurst, "Muddy Tyres", "DSN/JST" and "90 county" have all been a great inspiration and have been read over and over again. A big thanks to you all! My rig being LHD caused a bit concern as the turbo hits the steering shaft. The solution has been to turn the shaft upside down. This way the callapsible joint sits a bit forward of the turbo. The turbo has been turned, so the outlet is now pointing sideways up at approx 45 degrees. First startup was on Sunday evening and yesterday and today enabled me to do some driving. It flies up hills where my N/A struggled despite downshifts. Now I'll have to find a Def transfer box for reasonable money...

I must say that it's really nice when people get back with a thanks after they've got advice from a forum. Or at least get back to tell us that their issue has been solved. Yesterday I got a PM via the SLRK forum from a guy who had seen that I offered some explanations from the parts book on a PTO to someone. As he also had a PTO in mind, he asked if I could get him a copy as well. I answered his PM, brought the book to work, made some copies and faxed them to him. Do you think he thought that this was worth a Thank You?

One of his posts says he lives in Sweden... Sorry 'bout that.

Even here (Sweden) there was a two-stroke 88" up for sale some years ago. Only saw it advertised in a mag, so that's all I can contribute with...