Paddy

After a bit more delving, the holed ‘spark arrestor’ I have is not RRC7343 which is 870mm long, mine is the same shape but only 470mm long flange to flange, so it would seem that the cylindrical NTC1665 will slip into its place. Just out of interest can anyone identify what I have from the photo? Fork, getting parts here isn't too easy, especially when its not direct replacement. Trial and error would take weeks, delivery is a crippler!!

Help please, I need to replace the ‘spark arrestor’ RRC7343 and rear silencer/pipe on a 1991 2.5 NA diesel, ex military. Looking in the parts catalogue the pipe, hangers, mounts show me I have a NA front pipe ESR1617, then the spark arrestor, then a Turbo rear NTC1802. Spark arrestors are priced from £120 to £500, so when I came round, I thought about a normal silencer. Is the Turbo silencer NTC1665 a straight replacement for the spark arrestor? Does the Turbo NTC1802 pipe and silencer exit sideways just to the rear of the rear wheel arch (its not clear in the catalogue)? If yes to both then I can order the parts as straight replacements.

Nice find. Been meaning to replace mine for the last 6 months so ordered one.

Thanks, just today got a problem with the handbrake binding for no obvious reason(drum was very hot and smelly). Another week end under the Landy so I'll have a good look at the sliding joint on the props.

Curious to know was it the uj’s or the sliding joint (if you could tell?) I’ve got a hard to describe transmission noise that disappears for a while after greasing the props but reappears a few weeks later. I just can’t find any play in anything! I need to isolate which prop and sort it

Changed my master cylinder recently. I found it fiddly extracting the pedal box and inadvertently pulled and pressed the clutch pedal, out shot a slug of hydraulics just missing my face. I should have tied a bit of rag round it or blanked off the outlet first. May save a sore eye ……

Well second day and all is well, hopefully I’ve had a lucky escape from a clutch change, so I'm hoping your right too.

On a ’91 2.5 NAD Gen mileage of 60k. I changed the Clutch master and slave cylinder because of a slave leak, hydraulic oozing out of bell-house drain. While underneath I greased the UJ’s. Week later I started to get clutch judder when moving off . Ahh thought I, contaminated clutch plate but continued to drive it for 3 weeks. Didn’t improve so decided on a trip to a garage to confirm my guess, but I’ll just check the engine/gearbox mounts first. All looked ok and no movement with a crowbar, I’ll grease the UJ’s again while I’m underneath. Today I started to drive to the garage and no clutch judder at all, so what’s your opinions, Contaminated plate worn clean, UJ’s worn (no play when wiggling with a small wrecking bar), Coincidence? I guess I’ll just see how it goes but would be interested if any one else had a similar experience and the outcome.

Thanks for the advice, I’ll play safe and go for the “red stuff”. I don’t want a replay of a Morris Minor master cylinder seizing up !!

Just sent for a new clutch master and slave cylinder, thanks to the tech archives for the “how to’s”. The dust seal on the slave requires packing with ‘rubber safe grease’ what sort of grease is that? I have a fear of using the wrong sort remembering a brake master cylinder rubbers swelling to twice the size when I got oil on them !!

Jim, that’s a big help as its nothing like I imagined so would have wasted a lot of time. If you can get a picture up that would be helfull or I’ll pm you my email address and you could attach a pdf to an e-mail. I have attached a picture of a pdf I have that with any luck is the same as your reference pdf. If its the same you needn't trouble yourself any more as it now starts to make sense. Its a job for next month so plenty of time to organise things. thanks, Derek

91 military 90 with drivers side sliding window rattling. Searched and found some info but would like confirmation on how to cure. How do I get the glass out, pull out the top felt channel and that allows the glass to lift up and out? I believe I can use this http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/p-1649-window-channel.aspx instead of trying to find the original glazing felt, but with the glass being 5mm will the felt fit and slide along the outer channel? I guess that is the way to replace it, is to push the new felt along the inside of the outer channel with the glass in place. Thanks…

Thanks for the confirmation guys.

Hi guys, I need to replace the sagging front springs and shocks on a 1991, 2.5 nad ex military defender 90. Are they the same as a civi’ 90 which are NRC9446/7, STC3766. If not the same, anyone got the part numbers or a link. Searched without finding confirmation one way or the other. Regards,

Ok thanks lads, will get Xmas over with then off to the agri/tractor dealer for the highest CCA. Sure to be cheaper than halfords

Thanks mud, I had searched and found that link but the postage is a bit prohibitive to here , there’s also a variety of batteries with different specs depending on what you pay. If I knew what cca and aph it should be for this old engine then I could make sure I didn’t under spec with the limited suppliers I have. I could travel a distance to half frauds and pay silly money for what they say is right, but it would be nice to be pre armed with the facts. Ok Warpig so I go for the greatest CCA

What spec battery for a 1991 Defender 2.5 NA D please. Having to replace my non original and I think under sized one. Living in the sticks my choice is going to be limited. I could go for the biggest that fits but I believe size isn’t everything !!

I used to work at an oil refinery blending (making) petrol and gas oils (diesel). There was a summer and winter spec. for cold climates (Nordic countries) where additives prevented waxing in the coldest weather. Maybe the refineries need to look at our changing climate, or like you we can add our own anti waxing agents. But DIY adds yet more to the cost of motoring.

Can echo Litch’s sentiments, I bought a military 91 Defender five years ago from Withams, great condition, sound 2.5 N/A engine and low mileage. Mines ex RAF and that may make a difference if its only been trundling around an airfield or I may just have been lucky. Go and look, or subscribe to their (Withams) webpage and notifications

Thanks Les, I was worried incase the pump would let me down, I can live with no priming lever. Thanks for the crankshaft bolt size too, never looked/thought to look in toolsizes for specific jobs, more light reading for a raining night !!

‘91 2.5 NA 90. Decided to change fuel filter and clean sedimentor, all was well until I tried to bleed the system, cranked the engine over a couple of times to get the lift pump manual lever to pump, which it did for a few strokes, but then no resistance or air/fuel being moved. No matter how many times I cranked the engine or turned it with a wrench on the crankshaft pulley bolt I couldn’t get the lever to pump. Finished the job by cranking the engine over which pushed air into the injectors (never thought to disconnect the fuel cut off !!) so it turned into an even bigger job. Finally got it bled and is running sweet. Lever still not giving any resistance. So, why couldn’t I get the lever to work, will I be needing a replacement lift pump although its working fine with the engine running? About time I invested in a socket instead of stilsons. What’s the size of the crankshaft bolt please? regards

The Marines use the wing top vent for the snorkel and the heater intake is moved to the side of the wing using a S3 vent (above and forward of the N/S wheel arch) nrc9107 'pipe and bracket assembly, all gets vey expensive so I made one out of black plastic gutter down pipe. Works very well for me as I need to go through 3 feet of water each winter, but it is on a tarmac road. I claim no credit for the plastic snorkel idea or photo’s which where gleamed from some forum that I forget. The photo's show dimensions if you can get one fabbed up.

Gazzar, Emailed Knott, couldn’t find any other contact details, their reply was that the fitting is made for standard tow hitches so they don’t think it would fit a large eye of a Sankey. I’ll either stick with a chain or maybe get something fabbed up along similar lines. Nige I wasn’t keen to drill the locking pin on the hitch either. The trailer is left coupled and unattended in remote places when I’m fishing and there’s plenty of chancers travelling the countryside !! Thanks for the replies guys

Ok, a chain for the time being then a bit of fabbing in the future. Thanks for the input.

Hi guys, Any ideas on how to padlock lock a Sankey trailer “eye” onto a nato pintle when in use.? I could chain the trailer to the Dixon Bates drop plate but wonder if there is a neater way. Such as on the Pintle, enlarging the small hole that the securing pin goes through ( to stop the jaws opening), to enable a padlock to go through. Regards,