Paddy

Never thought of boxing it in from the inside as i was fixated on draught proofing from the outside. Good idea, thanks.

I’m looking at ways of draught proofing an 8ft.wide internal roller door. There are small draughts from the sides that I can live with, main draught is from the top where the door roll is, must be nearly a 2” gap from the lintel with the door down. Looked on the net for ideas and a 50mm deep brush along the underside of the lintel and just touching the door may help. Any other ideas/solutions or practical experiences ?

If its any help,,,,,Part 21 is what I used to get the plastic pipe into the engine compartment then flexi hose to the air filter canister, I blocked up the canister drain as well. Plate where part 21 enters through wing is to cover where a clansman fitted (moved to other wing)

I’ve had moderate success with careful and gentle heating of the UJ with a hot air gun, seems to reach a point were the grease is just soft enough to push through.

2 points you might consider. If you go for a flat roof look at fibre glass. Longer life, easy diy repair. Include a pit, down side is yer mates will wont to use it more than you!

Problem cured.. (but not solved !) Injectors out, serviced, back in and all is well. Service guys reckoned nothing wrong when testing them so just cleaned them up. Maybe it was a speck of carbon, not 100% sealed (new washers fitted) or just one of those things.

Same as Mutley really, not a lot of help but, ...each year I have to wade through winter floodwater and the bowls fill with water, despite Vaseline and then silicone on the bulb housing. I drilled a 3 mm hole in the bottom of each lens to let the water out. When needed I clean the bowl with tissue. Last winter I was in the carp when having to drive the flood in the dark and both bulbs blew when the cold water hit them half way through the flood. Had to use a hand torch out of the window to see my way home for half a mile. For this winter I’ve now got a light bar on the roof so no headlights on until I’m through the water....

Grand job..

I've looked for leaks, but before I take the injectors out I'll have another look.

Well worth the effort of laying concrete, nothing wrong with the finish for what it’ll be used for. Just in time for the winter weather.

Pat, no hiccups, straight to tickover. No cheap cures so I’ll wait a while and if it still bugs me I’ll move onto injectors and pump. I’ll up date when I get it sorted.

Thanks for the input guys. Kev, cheap stuff first is right !! Tick over when stationary is steady but it is like ‘hunting’ when at that point of over run bordering on slight acceleration. Cambelt is 2 years old and low mileage, I might have to up the ante.. Monkie. Not smokey at all and the problems been like it for 6 months without getting worse. I’ve no reason to suspect head gasket but I will get a compression test. But I’m starting to think injector/pump too. Pat. I haven’t noticed the hiccup but will try to induce it tomorrow. I adjusted the throttle after having the problem for a few months. In ignorance I did adjust the stop/anti stall so I’ll reverse this and use the idle adjuster (once I find it !) I think the next step will be injector service and maybe pump service if that fails. The problem is subtle and of hardly any consequence its hard to justify big expense but it can only get worse.

Eric, maybe but I thought it would have more of an effect at higher speed or under load, which doesn’t happen. If someone had the same problem and cured it with a new pump I’d give it a go. Ralph, the throttle, cable, linkage all free and smooth. The problem “hesitation and surge” happens more often on a static throttle, at low speed just above tickover. The best description is the engine can’t make its mind up if it should be just on overrun or just on acceleration on a static throttle, so it alternates between the two until I accelerate slightly, then it picks up smoothly. It’s subtle and is more of an annoyance than a problem.

1991 2.5 D na. 90000 km, runs and pulls well (for a 2.5 nad) At minimum speed, on a very light throttle, on the point between overrun and slight acceleration the engine surges slightly then drops back then surges etc. As though it can’t make its mind up which it should do !! Started about 6 months ago and a service of tank, sedimentor, fuel filter, Wynns injector cleaner, slight alteration to tick over has made no difference. Any suggestions before I think about expensive replacement parts?

Put rebar mesh in, don't fanny about with chicken mesh (its Britpart). You’re limited for space so put another shuttering board at the open end and tamp it length ways. Make sure you put a fall on it from shed to open ground on the left. Its not worth a power trowel/mechanical float so tamp it (2 man job) as best you can. Wait for it to start to go off then brush finish with a soft broom unless you can handle a bull float. Whatever your finish it will be 100% better than aggregate/type 1

Chuck some light weight re-bar mesh in, it'll give you a lot more strength for bashing the like of A frame ball joints on !!

I remember the old Mini's, rear sub frames rotted, front sub frames covered in engine oil lasted three or four times longer !!

The front and rear doors were looking tacky, metal frames rusting and slack hinges. Repaired bottom rails with YRM repair sections for S111. Got a pair of DA1070 heavy duty hinges which are marginally larger than the original and foul the door to window trim on the old military defender. Others have packed the hinge to clear the trim but I just ground off the offending small section of the trim. Hinges came in a blue box!! but to be fair to Britpart they are of good quality and no slop in the hinge pin, well pleased. After adjusting the striker plates the three doors close with a clunk rather than the slam bang before the repairs. If I close my eyes I’d think I was closing the door on a Roller !!

I think you gained a cult following with this thread. Looking forward to the next one !!! Live with the engine you might come to love it.

Thanks, I had looked in this and others, just never saw the right hinge. I’ll blame it on a hard day of stripping and rubbing down. (not a euphemism )

1991 Millitary 90. Hinge pivot bolt,spring and nut for hinge MUC 4795/6. thanks

Well at least the bolts wont be seized

Both products were bought/used by the pallet load, other products tried but in anecdotal user views they were inferior so reverted. Penol, as with all products there is a limit to their effectiveness. Copper Grease was used on nearly every nut and bolt, and proved its worth on shutdowns, especially on heaters/boilers and hot pumps/turbines. I’m not in the industry now so no access to cosh/msd for copper levels so can’t help you. I think ‘copper’ is more a reference to colour than content!

After 30 years in oil refining, working with extreme pressures & temperatures, corrosive liquids and marine conditions I’m a great advocate of copper grease and Penol releasing fluid produced by chemodex.co.uk Take a look and save yourself future headaches, they are far superior. WD40 I found to be really only a water displacer but with a great advertising team it can do just about anything!!

Nice tip with the Jeyes.