Paddy

Problem solved with a new solenoid from Smallfry. While I could have stretched the spring, this way, with a new unit, it should it should last for another 20 years !

I’ve had similar experiences after wading, which I have to do each winter. The back drums seize and go with a bang when I drive off to free them, same with the handbrake. So now when I park up overnight I coast to a halt, not using the foot brake, and park up leaving it in gear with the handbrake off. I have plenty of space so it’s perfectly safe. You might want try the same if you need to do more wading once you’re freed up and rolling again.

Thanks, PM'd

Haven’t taken it out for a look yet, rather wet at the moment!! I’ll try your trick first and then go for the Delphi if needed, unless someone warns me off.

1991 2.5 nad, used to stop as soon as the ignition key turned to off. Its now hesitating for a second or so before the engine stops. I’m looking at replacing the fuel cut off solenoid BAU4611L but Jeezus what a difference in price. Brit, allmake, bearmach at around £10 and then a genuine LR one at £130 ! I’m all for using genuine bits but that is some difference. Found Craddock selling a Delphi BAU4611LG for £32 which is a bit more like it. Any advice or preferences ?

Of the 20% off road, between 2 or 3% being critical, which is why I’m looking at MT’s. It’s a tossup between Cooper mtt and BFG, availability which impacts on cost may be the deciding issue.

Interesting site for those a pondering like me, http://www.offroaders.com/tech/AT-MT-Tires/Cooper-Discoverer-stt.htm

Yep I realised it was a can just waiting to burst again. Getting tyres in Ireland is limited and expensive so I really want to get it right. I’m running on Hankook AT’s which have been ok but have had some close calls in mud and soggy grassland fields, hence the thinking about MT’s. The AT’s have only done low mileage but are 10 years old and perishing around the tyre treads. Well it seems a contest between Coopers and BFG, I think for me the Cooper MT’s are winning, price will be the issue, especially here. Thanks for your input’s…

I need to replace 4 tyres on my old 90. She does 80% on road & 20% off. BUT when I’m off road shooting and fishing on my own, I need the best chance of not getting stuck!! On road driving is sedate so I guess these won’t be scary on tarmac. Is this the best choice or suggest any other alternatives?

Thanks that works fine , but not the link in tech archives, manuals.

Ralph, I tried this a while ago and got a 404 error, The Defender water ingress manual is down or missing.

Seems to me that there are two different ideas, not used either but could see a bigger advantage for the engine pre heater. The OP pre heater heats the block and anywhere the water gets to (heater matrix), equals easier starting, quicker engine temp/efficiency, quick cab heat and demisting. Fan heater only heats the cab and with the draughts in my 90 heat would be lost quicker than the engine gave me warm air after start up! Neither would I bother with 110v, if your garage electrics aren’t fitted with RCD’s I wouldn’t want to be using electric tools there anyway. ‘Plug in RCD’s’ are an answer & an awful lot cheaper than transformers. Cookie64, I would be interested in a review if you go down that route, might do the same myself.

It's always worth a search, especially 'tech archives' This should give you a starting point.. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=9010&st=0&gopid=96351entry96351 Sounds like you have stripped something, spindle, cable, a cog.

Well what should have been an hour’s job took most of the day. the Utubes video are correct BUT it took me nearly 2 hours to separate the channel/glass from the frame after all the rivets and screws removed. The military must have had it apart, maybe for painting, and kindly stuck it back together with silicone. New felt in place, doesn’t need glue it just beds itself in. Next job was to replace the door to door-top seal. The original rubber seal is flat with a raised ridge that secures it in a channel of the door-top. New one is has a curved lip running down one edge and a round tube like moulding running down the inside edge. Next problem was which way up for the external curved lip? Settled on facing upward over the edge of the door-top frame. Bolted it back to the door frame, which was a fiddle trying to keep the seal in place as I tightened the 2 nuts. Looked a bit naff from the inside but if this is the only replacement (mtc6224 now rrc7575) I haven’t got a choice. Closed the door to find the top left corner of door top was a good half inch away from the door seal. Whatever adjustments of hinges couldn’t close the gap. I twigged that it was the shape of the replacement seal acting as a wedge along the door, throwing the door top outward. Back on with the old seal and all well again. I had water leaks from the old seal hence replacement, hopefully silicone will suffice on the old seal !!

Found this which answerers my own question, doh. Not quite the same, mine is just felt pushed into the frame channel; this rubber one I assume is a later model. Dismantling is the same though. www.youtube.com/watch?v=FFA_wHh5bqM www.youtube.com/watch?v=ReMCFMlhz8E

Anyone replaced the glazing felt on a military Defender Alloy door top diagonal split window, part MWC4757 ? Is it just a case of remove old felt and slide in new felt while glass is in place?

Long discussions here http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/2-stroke-oil-diesel-164225.html Interesting facts (anecdotal) but enough for me to give it a go. Have done so for a year and I believe there is an improvement in general running but no real gain in MPG. Mine is a 22year old 2.5 na. Certainly hasn’t harmed and I think improved. One caution though is not to fall fowl of custom dipping as it will look like dyed agricultural diesel, mine is Tesco 2 stroke and is red, Irish agri-diesel is green. Hopefully with an explanation that will suffice without having your vehicle impounded and lengthy testing to prove your innocence!! BUT I think the agri-diesel in the North is red so that would be a problem……

If there are no leaks and he’s done as you advised and still a problem, it may be the master cylinder rod needs adjusting or (hope not) slave cylinder rod starting to go through the release bearing fork.

Have you actually found a leak? What have you checked. It’s not clear from the posts that you have found a failed item.

Hi Eightpot, enlighten me, what does 'directional' mean. I assume they should be fitted rolling only one way. How would I know if they were fitted 'back to front' and why is it a 'down side' with them? Only curious as I'm not running those particular tyres.

I replaced mine a year ago and used genuine. Fitted perfectly (as it should) and have not had to adjust the handbrake since. Anecdotal stories suggest cheaper makes stretch !! Check the mail order prices, seems cheaper than your quote depending on your vehicle,vin.

You’ll soon be a mechanic now you have a Landy !! As in your other post, get the cam belt changed (probably a garage job) they could also check your Fuel injector pump and injectors too. As Fridgefreezer suggests do a service, especially filters.

+ one. both have given good service. Several times I've seen Barry 4x4 be given credit for selecting and supplying the 'best' parts, so I'd ask them for a quote. Pity abut the poo web site though, 'updating' is no excuse.

I see from your other post that you’re not happy with the power of a 2.5 na, learn to live with it and love, it after all it is an 87 Defender. I’ve got a ‘91 and wouldn’t change a thing. If you’re dead set on a 200 tdi then do it now before you go and take the na engine with you, although you’re probably there now.

Same engine as yours, 10 seconds at most on glow and it starts imediately at this time of the year. Maybe injector service needed or diesel leaking out of injector supply line back to FIP and requires some cranking to get diesel to injector nozzle.