Paddy

If you're still going solo youtube has some usefull info. You just need to filter out the carp...

I guess I’d take a few years supply of service items. You never know what going to fall off next so I really wouldn’t know what to take as spares, depends on what you’ve done, replaced recently.

Thanks Maverick, just done the same..

With the draughts and water leaks, I'm cool

That’s my predicament, compared to genuine they are nearly free

Thanks guys, I was hoping for a resounding yes or no for the cheapies so I’m going for a compromise !! IF Anderzanders are ok and keep the water out I’ll buy a pair of cheapies giving me breathing space to get the genuine ones, (tight times at the moment). IF Anderzander is unhappy with the patterns I’ll have to go genuine and sell my body. Anderzander, I’d really appreciate an update after you have fitted and water tested the seals.

For critical parts I buy genuine, but for door seals they are 5 time the price of Britpart or Bearmach. Are the cheaper brands ok and fit? They are for a 20 year old ex military so looks count for nothing !

For me it was the small strips of rubber that fit in the main seal around the bolts and window lock that had shrunk! and letting water into the hole the fixing studs go through. I replaced these with some rubber strip ( bit like door draught proof strip). Final thing was to run a bead of silicone around the stud where it enters the alloy upper frame. I let this dry before bolting the upper back onto the door. I hope the silicone bead will act as a flexible washer and stop any water from running down the bolts that may seap past the renewed short strips. Persistent rain a couple of nights ago and all was dry.

What a muppet !! I hadn’t realised it was a stud that screwed into the alloy window frame. As I tried to undo the nut it gave and what I thought was a bolt became easy to turn. I assumed the bolt & nut were seized so stopped with the spanner. After reading your replies and trying again, it’s the nut turning the stud and hence coming undone. Great news, so just have to stop the water leak at the weekend. Thanks guys.

1991 90 with 2 piece door and sliding windows Rain is dripping down the front bolt that attaches window section to door section, so it was time to have a look. Two nuts and lift off but no, the studs just turns with no visible means of getting to the top hidden nut. I could hold the bottom part of the stud with grips and try to undo the nut, then grind off if necessary. Any hint, tips to separate the 2 sections? What am I likely to damage, destroy trying to get them apart to replace what I presume is a failed sealed.

Thanks Eightpot, I’m happy with the ride for my use, so not thinking about going soft !! The paint markings have ‘worn’ off so just wondered if I could tell by measuring. If/when they need replacing I’d go like for like and this thread just prompted my interest. Front springs are 15mm and rear are 17mm ‘dia. bar’, so I guess the rear are HD.

Are heavy duty springs normal on MOD 90’s? How would I know if mine are HD, is it thickness or number of coils? Grateful for any info..

Try this link http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=68899

Not as bad as I feared. Prop shaft has seized solid so instead of just greasing the nipple I’ll pull it a part and grease by hand as well. A bit optimistic to expect one grease nipple to get new grease all around the splines. The flange nut was loose but the flange is ok, the oil seal destroyed but the bearing seems ok, but will be replace. Hard to say if the prop was the cause, the loose nut or a combination. One strange thing was the felt washer was inside the flange next to the oil seal/bearing.

1991 Defender 90, I removed the front prop and got soaked in oil from the front flange while trying to diagnose a vibration. The prop shaft had seized( to be replaced) despite regular grease. I find that there is 2/3 mm lateral play on the flange along the shaft. There is a slight up/down play on the flange but there seems no play on the shaft itself. I know the answer is take it to bits but that is a brave step for me. So, before I attempt to follow http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=25053&st=0entry254775 From others experience do you think the bearing needs replacing, if not that makes the job a lot easier. Do you think the flange itself is worn, which makes it more expensive ! If I do take it all to bits is it as easy to do in situ as it seems in the link? Once bearing etc replaced is it just a case of tapping the shaft/bearing back? The job needs doing its just if its me or a garage !!

I’ll go with the advice and change this year, just to save any hassle. Would be interesting to know if its time or mileage that makes a belt fail.

Manuals say 60000 miles. I only do 4-5 thousand miles a year so when should I change the belt. It was changed 5 years ago but I assume it won’t last another 7 years.

Yep, they are Non-Newtonian fluids

Thanks for that Harry, stripping wasn’t going to be the problem but I did wonder how you secured the K&N inside the mushroom. Photo’s and explanation clarify things. Another project………

You're a gent.

Harry, Since making, fitting a snorkel with a mushroom top I’ve often wondered how to get a filter inside it. I’d really appreciate a pic. and brief description of how you managed it. Derek

Liam, You anywhere near Cavan ?

I remember from my oil refining days that all diesel engines, be it plant or vehicle had to be fitted with a chalwyn valve and spark arrestor before use in a restricted area so assumed the same would apply to military vehicles. Yep your right Ralph, 2.5 TB silencer NTC1665 (or equivalent) is a straight replacement. Up and running quietly now thanks.

glad I got in before they realised !!

Parts come from the UK usual places like lrseries, p/craddocks, rimmers. Good news today when I found a place that stocks and makes exhausts in Enniskillen, GT Exhausts. If they haven’t one in stock they’ll make it, what more could you ask for and its only an 45 minutes from Cavan. looks like the diesel turbo cylinderical silencer will fill the gap. Sorted, thanks.