Paddy

Thanks, that’s great info Stephen. Its always good to get someone’s first hand experience of a product. Maybe I’ve caught mine just in time as its only the sedimenter that’s contaminated and not ( visually) got through to the filter. I’ll follow the same procedure with tank washing. I haven’t used any cans so I wonder if the bugs came from my local filling station but it would be hard to pin it down. I may just mention it to them and give them a miss for a while.

Just completed my annual service and found my sedimenter half full of jelly, mostly black. It sinks in diesel so presumably water based and black through bacteria. No real help via google other than it does exist. Anyone any recommendations on a bug killer that's available through motor factors. I will be draining and flushing the tank when the level is lower.

Daft idea but I can sense desperation ! With the remaining two tapped holes, is there enough room to screw in two threaded bars, with tubes on and held captive by nuts to make two sliding hammers? Puller, heat, then hammer..

Sorry I don't know as I'm still using some I borrowed !!. No use to you now, but seems readily available on line from Chemodex and others.

Could also try a different releasing fluid, having worked in a refinery I know the effectiveness of "Penol" to release heat seized and/or rusted items.

I've not had this problem nor had the dip tube out but couldn't the olive just be soldered to the tube ?

Might be in the same situation when I overhaul my rears soon. Any link and comments to the kit? Fore warned etc etc..

As a snorkel was fitted I’d guess it was used for off road or deep wading. The duckbill/fanny drain, call it what you will, was never totally reliable in keeping water out of the canister as they perish or become jammed open with debris, hence the solid plug. If you’re not going deep wading I’d reinstate the rubber drain for its original purpose just in case of water ingress.

I can remember reading on a forum, probably this one, of a successful diy seal made from silicon and a powder (it might of been talc or flour, I can’t remember!!) Somebody with a better memory than me may respond or do a search.

Thanks for that, this could be my problem. This last winter floods saw me daily driving through 24-30” of floods for a few weeks, outgoing cold engine and return would be hot Never thought about it pulling a bit of a vacuum. A job to coincide with new timing belt and renewing the dust seal

I leave mine out, for the 2 minutes it takes to fit I’ll fit before wading etc. Without plugs in you’ll see if your clutch slave leaks and oil in/on the timing belt. As I found out after prolonged wading (weeks), water ingress through crank dust seal behind the front pulley which amounted to a cup full on removing timing chest plug!

My info. came via EMLRA but that was 8 years ago. Additional info from the original vehicle history card held at Princess Royal Barracks, Deepcut, Camberley, Surrey, GU16 6RW. UK Tel 01252 833371 Info. my not be relevant/exist now!

Whoops, hope my request didn't tempt fate

Brilliant, thanks. I need the cranked spanner which I haven't got otherwise I could have removed the pump and compared with pictures. I can now order both items together.

Thanks Ralph, As in this example http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/12473/STC637-WATER-PUMP-2-5-NA-DIESEL-PETROL.html?search=stc637&page=1 when there is a reference to 'non viscous water pump assembly' does this refer to the viscous fan which mine has. Should it be STC635?

I’m confused and LR dealer is unsure! Part number please for a water pump. 2.5 (12J)NAD, with viscous fan, no air-con, Vin HA48**** Thanks.

It’ll be a while before I get round to looking at mine but if it has this magical module (that maybe can’t be replaced) I’ll look further into this item www.spiyda.com/magento/index.php/miniature-low-fuel-warning-light-module.html. This might be the modern day equivalent.

Thanks Red90 that gives me a starting point but then the problem of trying to replace it. No great problem if I can't but it is a 'nice to have'

Too cold to be outside messing but when it warms up a bit I’ll ease the dash out and have a poke around with the ignition on and see if I can get the light to go out. I’m ruling out the sender as its a new unit and I still have the light on with all 3 leads disconnected. I’ll update if I get any success !!

1991 ex military 90, 2.5nad. Low fuel light coming on intermittently, then after a few days permanently on, fuel tank is half full and fuel gauge is showing correct level. Easy fix with a new fuel sender STC1139 or so I thought !! BUT still got the same problem. Fiddled with the connections on top of the sender then noticed that with all three wires disconnected the low fuel light was still lit. So I’m guessing that somewhere away from the tank there is a short or live feed but I have no idea which or where to look. The only thing I can confirm is the Black cable is a good earth. Any help appreciated as I’m no expert with electrics..

I did something similar but for live stock. I rue the day I didn’t lay concrete or at least tarmac. Every day I look at it and wish... A hard surface is so much cleaner for whatever you store, doesn’t get chewed up with trollies or jacks, handy for heavy bashing or jet washing bits on. A lot easier to do it now than later.

Jump start from another battery/vehicle will prove/disprove your battery.

Pictures too small but 95% certain it’s identical to my 1991, 90, 2.5 NAD, ex military. Length of 11”. Secured with 4 screws on top front lip. Bottom lip clips into metal bracket on the bottom of rad. 2 piece cowl pop riveted together.

AND, as you have an ex military Defender dont forget to browse the military section, you could find it useful. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?s=2c823a86b018557c0a6b021dc3abab09&showforum=13

Tanuki is right in his comments. I worked for a refinery and made/blended fuels. Each refinery (aprox. 6 companies in the uk) works to set standards (recipes) depending on the intended market. To the basic recipe, additives will be added again depending on intended market, country or marketing ploy. Water is present in all fuels and slowly drops out to be drained off before transfer. Water will also drop out in forecourt tanks but by now very little. If forecourts let water collect then at some stage it could be pumped into your tank. Especially after a fuel delivery which stirs it up again. The majority of fuel is pumped around the country in underground pipe lines to fuel depots. It’s not unusual for one company to supplier another company and vice versa. So your fuel 'could' have been produced by any of the refineries but always to a specific spec. Supermarkets buy bulk at discounted price and it’s reflected at their pumps, but will not contain for example “BP super additive” or slightly different spec of fuel. Here in Ireland, as Tanuki found out, laundering diesel or stretching petrol is a growing problem and guaranteed to damage your motor. Stay away from them.