uninformed

Glad I only fabricated one of the rear bulkhead to outrigger mounts, not really happy with how flimsy the vertical flange is (LR factory bracket is no better) And considering there are only 3 attachment points for the rear tub, I’m going to do something a bit more substantial and welded in.

I’ve Been a bit all over the show. I mocked up a trial damper mount. Just waiting on parts to convert my Bilstein 9100s from 46mm pistons to 60mm so I can finalise the dimensions. I’ve been cutting and shaping chassis doubler plates for various parts and started making the new rear bulkhead to chassis outrigger mounts (unfortunately factory mounts won’t work) One thing that has been extremely frustrating is trying to buy parts, specifically high end or less common bits. These are available but trying to get information or quotes is like getting blood from a stone, and I’m not talking cheap items either. anyway, just slowly chipping away…

Good info thanks Snagger 👍 im actually running D1 swivel housings because they have level and drain plugs unlike my Def’r that only had the fill plug. My housing is 150mm wider than factory, that will add ~75mm to my drag link so hopefully it won’t suffer bump steer. lighter steering may actually be good for me as I’m running more castor than factory.

It would be outboard, the reason im looking into this is to fit an engine swap. Im hoping to take a look at a P38 box in person soon. Pitman arm may be a problem being shorter than Def'r. Maybe the D2 pitman arm is longer and just maybe same spline??? I still have to measure up the geometry, Panhard gets lowered at chassis end. Might help with being more parallel to drag link, but the drag link is already ~100mm longer than Panhard, P38 box would add ~130mm, and then add on my +75mm wider track (each side) means a ~300mm difference (not ideal at all) Making a drag link is the easy bit (I have RH and LH taps for the TREs) I Already made one for my current set up and a clamp on damper bracket.

Any idea if the D2 and P38 boxes share the same output spline and size? Are their pitman arms different lengths and can they be swapped?

Thanks

Are you referring to the D2 steering box?

Yes I believe the D2 box is ment to be stronger than the older 4 bolt. A mate contacted Adwest years ago and that’s what they had advised him. Operating pressure for the D2 could be either way considering they also shared the same engine as Defenders… If I find out anything I’ll post it up

I’ve seen a little bit but not much in-depth. Most are putting them in Series. I never heard it mentioned regarding the different operating pressures, and only found out about the shorter pitman arm yesterday. I found the Works V8 thread Bowie69 linked and there is little tech regarding the steering box. Ill keep searching the web…

Thanks Dan, do you know if the box has more overall angle of operation (to make up for the shorter pitman)? more turns lock to lock sounds like slower steering? clearance should not be an issue for me as my axle housing is 150mm wider than factory.

There are a few reasons. It has been stated that its a stronger box the the standard 4 bolt Def'r/Disco type. It mounts outboard which allows more room for engine swaps and their ancillaries. In particular for me, the M57 and the AC compressor. There is at least one company that makes a bolt in bracket including Panhard mount. Downsides are, longer drag link, shorter pitman arm and apparently higher operating pressure...

Hi all, I asked this in the international forum but this might get more Def’r eyes 👀 who here has fitted a P38 steering box to a Def’r or Disco? How’d you go about it. How did it change the geometry? How do the two boxes compare for ratio and plumbing? cheers Serg

Hi all, who here has fitted a P38 steering box to a Def’r or Disco? How’d you go about it. How did it change the geometry? How do the two boxes compare for ratio and plumbing? cheers Serg

To answer the above. For me the reason is packaging. Yes it is common to mount the dampers and coil overs on the LCAs (sometimes it’s the UCAs that are outboard) in desert and Ultra 4 racing. This came about because of the desired amount of wheel travel and speeds they race at. A shock at the housing would be CRAZY long and the shaft speeds would be insane! They overcome the reduction in dampening by going to BIG dampers. 3-4” dia pistons, in full bypass and usually a coil over and a bypass damper. You can just see there is a housing mount just inboard of the LCA and that’s where I had intended to mount the damper but it won’t be great geometry there and the wheel rate even higher. I am going to double check though by cycling it with one there. I can’t mount further out as there is more stuff going on that will become apparent later. And that LCA damper mount was just whipped up to check damper geometry it’s only temporary hence the hose clamps.

Been hectic with work, rotting decks and running around. But I did manage to throw the wheels on and start damper mounting trials. Checking motion ratio and if the mounting had digressive, linear or progressive dampening.

I’m lazy and just use Hydrochloric acid. re the Radius arms, the later, wider arms don’t articulate as well as the narrower early arms. Your early arms could have been used with appropriate washers between the bush and housing brackets. The bush separation and bolt size is identical. They did not change bush separation until the D2 but the Defender remained the same, though the Tdci did get a change in bolts (weird design)

Well it seems nothing on a LR is ever really “done”… After a run and paddle this morning I realised I had not cut the holes in webs for extra weld area. 4 webs, 16 holes, some die grinding and half a day later… at least that’s done 😆

I would have thought this an easy one for the rivet counters… It seems that the 88” tubs have the floor fixed directly to the rear mounting angle and the 109” tubs have the z angle transition between floor and rear mounting angle. The z angle is not shown in the parts manual and no part number will exist for it as it is part of the floor (spot welded just like the top hat stiffeners)

Can’t beat Oxy for simplicity and versatility. I used mine to forge the bottom flanges of radius arms and to pre and post heat/stress relieve the 4140 welded to my axle housings. good work mate 👍

Thanks mate 👍. I’m enjoying your forging, machining etc on your build 👏👏

Finally back to some fabrication and the rear crossmember. Chassis rail extensions done….well only the webs 😆. 200mm shorter than factory. Still LOTS to do just in the rear crossmember alone (more crush tubes to machine, another laser cutting and overlay to design and to sort)….

Ok another question hopefully someone can help with… 88” vs 109” rear tubs. Both 2 door versions. My 109” tub had a small angle fixed to the bottom of the floor and on top of the rear mounting angle. I just saw pics of a 88” tub repair that shows the floor directly to the rear mounting angle. Are both correct? If so, That would mean that there is either variations in the chassis load bearing points to rear mounting tabs or the heights of the underfloor stiffeners and struts?

While the rear axle is further forward, isn’t it forward of wheel arch centreline due to the axle travelling rearward in bump because the leaf shackles are at the rear? I’m making my doors 200mm longer so between that and the 110 having a larger wheel arch I should have enough wiggle room.

I think it is @Bowie69 I was lead to believe it was a NA spec thing but may be just the early non diff lock D2 cases?

Hey all, im after the part number for the LT230 interlock solenoid that was used on Nth American spec LT230 with automatic and prevented H/L being selected unless the gearbox was in park/neutral and foot on brake. cheers.