uninformed

Here are a couple of videos I made regarding MaxiDrive low range gear sets for the LT230, their assembly procedures and installation.

Thanks @Peaklander

Hey all, I need a couple of part numbers. Small flange head bolt that fastens the speedo tranducer to rear output housing. The hi/low/diff lock lever. Mine got bent 😬 (R380)

The bearings themselves are the same for RRC, D1, 90, 110, 127, 130 and I think late Series 3. However, if buying a “kit” there will be differences in the big washers, some keyed and some a big flat, there may also be variations in the hub seal. And the early 110 had a slightly different PCD/bolt pattern for the drive flange which would affect the gasket.

And a photo pinched from the web....

I just dug up some photos from my R380 build many years ago. IT would seem the collar is seated pretty much down to the rear bearing. Having the centre of groove flush with case makes sense as the LT230 seal is flush like the R380 seal. Bearing puller only just fitted between the rear bearing and collar, and thats a knife edge on the puller. Witness marks shows the collar must have been down hard or very close to the rear bearing. Looking at the rear of case and how the seal sits, suggests to me centre grove of collar would be flush with case Here is the mating input seal on the LT230

I use my MaxiDrive drive flange to seat the double lipped hub seals on my Def’r. Seats it to the factory depth 👍

Very slow going here. Bit of stuffing about with the centre diff shims. My dummy bearing cup gave false results. I did make a couple more tools though.

I just went through my diff parts draw. Here are two pinion flange bolts, as supplied in Rover diff pinion flange kits. I’m pretty sure these are from Ashcroft. The gal looking class 10.9 is definitely from Ashcrofts kit… If my memory serves correctly (probably not…) I bought some of the earlier square profile flange kits, then changed to the round. I suspect the Gold zinc class 8.8 is from the earlier type. The gal looking 10.9 is definitely from the later round type. Just a note. A thick washer is required with these bolts. Did you have that?

A mate of mine looked at the idea of a lockable ATB and we think it could be doable. One way would be to make one bearing journal longer and cut a spline on it. Then the rest would be the same as how MaxiDrive actuate and lock axle to hemisphere. If the bearing journal bore is big enough, the spline could be internal , again how MaxiDrive do the Sals version of their locker.

Given the 90, 110, 127, 130 and D1 all share the RRC suspension geometry and basic driveline set up, it should not be too hard to understand they all run out of phase front prop shafts. the only caveat is I’m having a mental block and can’t remember if Tdci Defender went DC prop shaft?

A DC does not increase articulation, in fact they have a limit that is less than a wide angle traditional uni joint. Proper DC has the DC with the majority of angle change from flange to shaft and the standard uni end should be only 1 degree. The Internet will say zero degrees for the standard uni end, but you want at least 1* so the needle rollers get turned . At zero they won’t and can brinell.

If that is a genuine bolt, and the torque spec correct as per the WSM, I’d go with that , just add a bit of medium strength loctite. And for it to fail, something else has gone wrong. Poor threads, not clean etc. I also think that there is miss information regarding grade/class of bolt that has become popular. All grades get “stretched”. Generally for bolts that get reused the pre load will be something like 65% of proof load. The joint design or job requirements dictate the pre load, then the bolt size and grade/class is chosen. Substituting higher class bolts doesn’t always benefit, not because they don’t stretch or are brittle, but because tightening to the same pre load doesn’t get the bolt performing as it should, or the base material isn’t capable of a higher pre load (something like cast iron…..) and substituting lower grade or class bolts is definitively not good, you might get away with it, but it’s not a good idea. BTW “Grade” is for SAE bolts, “Class” for metric and whilst they are a representation of strength they are not the same values or measured the same way.

What is the dia of the bolt/thread?

Interestingly the LT230 ATB does not have any such spiralling in the bore like those bearing journals. ill add some photos of the inside of the LT230 Ashcroft ATB that may be of some use 🤷🏻‍♂️ Im fairly sure these are made overseas by a company that makes ATBs for many different applications.

@Snagger it’s s just swapping the needle roller out for a bronze bush. MaxiDrive use to make and keep them in stock, I’d imagine Ashcroft would do/have something similar. The earlier CV is longer so if pairing with the later stub axles and hubs you just need a deeper/thicker drive flange to make up the difference, again something MaxiDrive kept in stock. I think Ashcroft might even offer a custom short stub shaft CV to fit this application. Edit: ok so I just looked at the Ashcroft website, they offer 2 types of CV. AEU2522 replacement and a custom later replacement which has the bigger star etc but has the stub shaft , shoulder etc to fit later narrow stubs with needle roller. Below is a photo of how MaxiDrive did it. They retained the later factory bronze bush which controlled outward float, and replaced the needle roller with an internal bronze bush. I think no stub axle machining was involved (IIRC)

Plenty of options opinions on removing so I don’t need to comment there. Regarding the bolts themselves, 6 are standard and one has a larger shank. They have different part numbers. The larger shank can go in any hole. The aftermarket bolts I had (replacement with correct part numbers) were junk. I did some destructive testing and they definitely were not the 12.9 class when compared to readily available SHCS of same class (and size of course) . I would opt for genuine. Some aftermarket swivel balls have a bad reputation due to failures, and with the exception of the Tdci, LRs metallurgy and manufacturing was actually pretty damn good. (Size was generally the limiting factor) I would seriously consider VGC second hand genuine balls (I have 3-4 spare sets for myself lol ) Just my 3 1/2 cents 👍

If you are happy with diff ratios, keep the factory CW&P if in good condition. These are not junk like some people seem to think. 96 D1, Def’r etc have the worst CVs. I would up grade these to the AEU2522 size. Unfortunately LR never made a 23/24 spline axle shaft so you’ll need aftermarket. New flanges with screw on caps are worth it and you can run oil throughout. The factory hemisphere is junk. A open or selective locker diff should be 4 pinion gears. You can get HD non locking hemispheres or your choice of selective lockers that are all 4 pinion. I’m personally not a fan of auto style lockers in axles. You're probably in the UK so Ashcroft makes sense and makes good products Diff pegging is ok but would be last on my list for your needs.

There are some advantages to running lower (higher numerically) diff gears. Less prop shaft torque is one of them.

The cost of 2x new diff gears and a new high range plus shipping costs is easily equal for me. On top of that it’s not possible to achieve the final ratios I want that way.

With factory 3.54 diffs, MD30 low , 1.1-1 high , the ZF 6 speed manual and 33” tyres I’ll have ~78-1 1st low and 2nd-6th low will be pretty much LR 300Tdi Def’r factory ratios (1-5 R380). High range gives me about 2050 rpm at 100km/h. Getting low range and high range where I wanted them isn’t possible with diff gears and high range swap.

As Tim mentioned, MaxiDrive 30% low range gear reduction set. You supply them your intermediate gear set (or they can supply a new one), they modify it, provide a new intermediate shaft and low range output gear. Straight cut and made from en39b. They also do 49% lower. A little bit of case fettling is required for the bigger dia output gear, but it’s quite easy.

Not going great unfortunately. I spent probably near 100hrs on the rear cross member and chassis rail extensions, wasn’t happy with it so gave it to a mate. I was waiting on shock parts to convert mine from 46mm to 60mm bore, which ment I could not do anymore on the shock mounts. I recently received the parts, so they are in the queue after I rebuild some LT230 transfer cases. I ended up with 4, so at least 2 are getting sold. Full rebuilds with HD cross shafts, steel bushed case and extended sumps. Mine will have Ashcroft ATB, 1.1-1 high and 4.32 low range, steel bushed and extended sump with girdle. I made some tooling to help with these. I now have an X5 , ready for engine and gearbox donation. Which is good, but also means my transmission cross member and probably even chassis overlays (to repair/strengthen corrosion) will be no good. Buying new parts has been trying. Some out of spec (brands and prices that should not be) and some taking over 8 months to organise pricing so I can pay and get them (no haggling from my end) all I can do is chip away at it 🤷🏻‍♂️

To continue with the comparison…. Genuine old AEU2522 - stub shaft dia 29.75mm but the root dia of output spline is only 28.35mm 101 CV which I believe is genuine as I’ve never seen any AM options/alternatives- stub shaft dia 32.95mm but the root dia of output spline is 33.10mm Working on the min dia for both AEU2522 - 28.35 = 631.242mm2 101 - 32.95 = 852.709mm2 which makes the 101 CV stub shaft 135% the cross sectional area of the 110 CV stub shaft. It’s my opinion that the 101 CV is also machined better/properly with the stub shaft slightly smaller dia than the root dia of the output spline. Photos don’t really do them justice…

I suggest anyone scoffing probably has not run their own business, and certainly not in the field of fabricating something from raw materials. They look simple but there is a lot to it. We should be thankful there is even an option for Defenders.