uninformed

The photo probably distorts it a bit, and the 101 has a more coarse spline so the root dia will be closer. I’ll try to remember to take some measurements tomorrow.

Here is a photo to show the size difference between an early 110/RRC (AEU2522/606665) vs 101FC CV star.

Not sure if out of your budget Mo https://ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/product/4-pin-diff-centre/ https://ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/product/front-shafts/ The one piece cross shaft, while nice, isn’t necessary. There are A LOT of locker rear diffs running around the world with 2 piece cross shafts. I think your factory CVs will be fine and by all accounts will “wear” better than the softer chromoly upgrades

2100 @ 70mph is slightly better (lower rpm) than my factory spec BT50 with 3.2Tdci ill be worse with my M57 6 speed manual set up , but set my cruising speed at 60 (noisy Defender on Australian roads and not my DD). I was also looking for a deep low range Tcase ratio swaps are not hard for Mo and reasonably priced if he needs to go to 1.1 or higher but just as importantly, a 24 spline diff of the 4 pin variety should be fine 🙂

Your input gear might not be cross drilled ( I don’t think they were by 92?) you can do it yourself. Just grind a little off the surface first (only where drilling) to remove the case hardening, this will make drilling much easier.

That set up should give you pretty good Hwy cruising rpm. IMO a 24 spline diff will be fine. Ashcroft 24/23 shafts to suit your CVs. I think spending money on the LT230 may be more worthwhile. Personally I would not use a 1.2 out of a D2 or Tdci. Those Q gears are weak, generate more heat and they also reduced the quality of the centre diff gears from 98 onwards. They went ever further towards the end of the Tdci and changed the centre diff to a cast open design 2 pinion gear heap of carp 😞

You may end up finding that an Ashcroft ATB is a good investment for your LT230 when the M57 is up and running. Given you’ll also want to do a high range ratio swap, that would be the time.

Not sure if the rear axle shafts are different to the fronts (god knows they could be 🤦🏻‍♂️) but the front shafts are 22 spline at diff 18 spline into CV 22 spline at drive flange the OD of the 22 spline at diff is approximately 36mm

The more common D60s were only 2 pinion gears Vs the Sals 4. But different specs were available. The D60 housings generally have thicker tubes than the Series,110 and even the 130.

There was a very small window of time, just before the transition to 24 splines, where Def’rs had 10 spline diff end and the hopeless 32 spline CV. Make sure you don’t have these.

Thanks mate 👍. according to the LR WSM there are 40 available in 0.025 increments. That list is about 20 with 0.05 increments but we can probably interpolate the part numbers.

Just to add to this, Mike from Britannica Restorations found that if you measure a collapsible spacer after torquing , you'll find they have not crushed square. His therory is that this could exacerbate flogging out the intermediate shaft hole in the case. IMO a thicker walled spacer isnt a bad thing for bearing support and less wear over time...

Hey all, Im looking for the list of part numbers and corresponding sizes for the LT230 intermediate shaft solid spacers Thanks Serg

The D2 is approximately 100mm wider in the front. Based on the standard +33 rims on Def’r,D1 and RRC, and your comment of only 40mm wider at the axle, this would put the D2 rims at 0 offset? Id definitely keep the D2 front arms if swapping them in. They offer some advantages over the older arms.

Just remember the further away the tank is from the pump the more restriction in the pipe work. Pipe size is determined by a few factors, length is one of them.

I could, but considering they couldn’t give me basic technical information regarding their Alcon brake upgrade at £2000 I doubt they would help some random punter. It’s just not worth their time unless it makes economic sense

Thanks @Eightpot 👍 Thanks @Snagger very generous offer mate.👍 at this stage I’ll keep it as simple as possible for the Seller at least. I’ll start searching the stuff Eightpot and others recommend. Going by sea is no problem regarding timeframe… it’s a slow build 🤦🏻‍♂️

Hydrodynamic started that buggy with a Datto engine.

The reality is I’ll just be cleaning up my old Mile Maker and using that. PTO pump ~60Ltr/min. Unlike your worm wheel gear, I had to fit a double over centre valve for braking in case of line loss. Id be happy with a single speed gearbox as high is never used.

Thanks guys parts are side panels for a 2 door 110 tub , floor, rear end panels and some mounting brackets. Flat packed on a pallet cheers

Hi all, im looking to buy some 110 rear tub body parts from the UK and shipped to Australia. The company suppling them have been very helpful. Unfortunately the shipping quote of £3000 (and that’s before taxes,duties and fees my end) is making it unviable. I believe that was through DHL any ideas on shipping options to reduce this crazy cost? cheers 🍺

They are concentrating on electric and have discontinued one of their two Hydraulic winches (of course the one I wanted)

I’m pretty sure there was a time line where they were both 290mm and possibly even offset, but I’m also pretty sure the mounting lugs are at different bolt centres

Very slow going here…. 😬 set up to tack in chassis rail extensions then on the bench to weld them in. Still lots to sort and weld just in this rear cross member before I can weld to the chassis…

Try House Of Torque