uninformed

To quote the great BS, “ Oops…. I did it again “ Doesn’t look like much, but left with a big hole and a limp… 🤦🏻‍♂️

Unfortunately with LRs, some things did not change and other things seemingly had many small changes for no apparent reason. I think since you have both in hand you will be the best to know. I do know some truck cabs have aluminium gutters and some steel. I did a search with owners and we could not find rhyme or reason or a simple date change… As they say, there is only one way to find out.

Thanks Mike. Do you know any reason a V8 would need more room at bulkhead than a 300Tdi. Just thinking about future options…

Sorry I ment location/distance only. Was the rear of the V8 same or different to the 300Tdi rear. Ie bolt up to bell housing location.

Thanks @Retroanaconda Its interesting that LR had different locations at the same time (V8 & 2.5 ) That would have ment different propshafts. Any idea how much further back it was? Was the rear of V8 the same as rear of 300Tdi?

Hey all, is the Transfer case in the same location in the V8 and Tdi’s ? Were they still offering a V8 when the R380 became the gearbox? Is a V8 bellhousing shorter or longer than the 300Tdi version?

Some pictures. The spigot bush does protrude through to the wheel hub side, I have machined mine off. This was a RRC housing I believe. Note the casting and strengthening around threaded and ABS holes. Sorry the pics aren’t great they are screenshots from a quick video I made for a mate wanting to convert a regular Sals to ABS.

The rear axle housing also has a hole in the end flanges and a bush pressed inside it. This lines up with and protrudes through the hole in the stub axle. It may be easier to buy a D1 or RRC rear housing.

Thanks guys @TSD you nailed it with the turbo. The HS Tgv is rear facing exhaust. A 90 bend gets it pointing down like the 300Tdi but much further back. The Tgv alternator is also longer with the vacuum pump on the rear of it. It might be easier to just move my whole lot back 4 inches or whatever it can… can I be bothered 🤔🤪😬

All good mate 👍, different views are good, I can’t think of everything. Given your conditions it’s something that I can understand is an issue.

Hey all, who has fitted a 300Tdi and a stubby bell housing to a Defender? I think it’s about 200mm 8” further back? Laying under mine I can’t see how it can go back that far? btw I have the HS2.8 Tgv so not sure if turbo and outlet are in a different location/orientation?

@FridgeFreezer the next step after that is to pressurise the housing (axle, gearbox, t/case) with 2-3psi 🙂 most of the comp guys here have been doing that for 20 years. But I like what you’ve done 👍

A few reasons to keep it. Cross sectional area of flanges and webs (along with distance from the nuteral axis) determines strength. I was going to move the inner web out to create a neat box, but I looked at how LR attached the rear of the fuel tank and figured it would allow those attachments to be under the lip and have the tank fill the available space. It also gives room for the plates, washers and nuts of all the hardware. Mud is not a big problem for me, and I'm pretty good at keeping on top of cleaning. The LR crossmember has a few traps, mainly crevice corrosion due to overlapping plates with only spot or stitch welds and no seam sealer. I'll have plenty of drain holes.

I got the chance to go to a mates workshop and use his lathe yesterday. Turning lots of crush tubes for the rear crossmember. Laser cut and folded C section for rear crossmember - 3mm mild steel. Basic layout of attachments. Crush tubes (I still have 4 smaller to make). Forward side inner web. closer pic of the crush tubes showing the stepped shoulder (each end) that locates in the laser cut holes. And fitment to holes. The chassis rail extensions will be welded right in to the inside face of web of main C section, with the inner web being cut either side of rails. There will also be another overlay on the rear outside face with smaller flanges to add strength, probably 2.5mm thickness.

There are a few things in our LRs we can buy that are genuine without buying LR branded. Timken bearings and Corteco seals are two of them

I run them on rear only. The fronts tend to catch more bits and also get damaged easier.

Id say I have a good amount of knowledge but am still always learning. For me as a visual learner, #1 Hands on , #2 pictures and 3rd written text. Just go slow, be as observant as possible (it helps me I have a little OCD), put bolts (including washers, SHIMS etc ) back in holes as soon as possible in disassembled parts. Or organise in tubs or bags. SHIMS can be VERY thin so keep an eye out. (shims will be under the top swivel pin and on the end of the CV stub shaft, keep them specific to their matching bits) If you are thinking about replacing your swivel balls, I would advise going Genuine, if they are too expensive, look for good condition second hand. The genuine are Forged and good quality steel, some of the AM have been absolute junk and failed! Something I do not want! We don't get the road salt etc you do, and whenever I have got bits of LRs I keep all HT bolts, and good components (I have 4 sets of factory swivel balls in excellent condition ) Going by your pics showing the condition of your assembly, finding the axle serial number may be impossible. ITs usually on the long (passenger) side of housing above the centreline. The parts manual uses these as stop/start points for change in parts. Here are a couple of screenshots for you.

@Daan the whole spacer set up is clear as mud hey lol. I did a little googling and it’s not just one size spacer fits all. Think like shims, different available sizes to give the desired end result (zero end float) for the production variations in hubs. If you don’t have a spacer or destroy one, it’s seems you start with the biggest (master) spacer, install, check end float and then reference the WSM to see what size/colour coded spacer you need. Not convenient by any means. I got a chance to dip in my parts bin to grab a photo to show the difference between early and later wheel bearing spacing.

Let’s assume your front axle is off a Land Rover (going by your separate drive flange) and not a D1. Your swivel ball and swivel housing are specific to the Railko bush type. These were up to ~1994 (The 300Tdi was the basic change over, but the last of the 200Tdi got rear discs and there was a odd 32 spline long stub shaft CV for a year or 2) The best way to be sure is to disassemble and inspect your parts. If you go to the retroconda website that @western linked, the sub categories have the part numbers. Working on them is fairly straight forward, get yourself a Workshop manual and go look at Britannica Restorations YouTube videos.

Yes they do the job fine and did on Series, just a personal preference for me.

Other than the Railko and 10 spline, the early stuff is better IMO

@western if you are referring to the little BSP plug at just above 9 o’clock, that’s the level plug, the height or volume indicator for when filling with oil. The fill plug is larger and further near the top and was retained through for one shot grease etc. Only the drain and level plug got deleted. Interestingly, the D1 swivels I have are off a 94-95 300Tdi (narrow hub/stub etc) and still had all 3. Now it’s most likely just a phasing out as we know LR were definitely not consistent for changes at given date.

@Mossberg some blokes would press, some would “knock in” with a drift and hammer. Some like a press because it’s nice and progressive and you can set things up true/square, some like the simplicity of knocking in and will often have specific tools they have turned up for doing so, which also helps keep things aligned. A little bit of diff oil won’t hurt with installing, a finger smear in the stub and around the bush. Go easy and make sure it’s not going in crooked. Re the top swivel pin, my vague memory says they look the same or very similar outside, but I’ve only had a early one in hand once , and a while ago. One thing I did notice different between my 98’ 110 and some 94’ D1 swivel housings, the D1 still had the drain and level plugs, the 110 only the fill plug. This could be age and not model related though.

Ok, there is definitely some confusion between us , terminology’s and translation. Inner bearing = the bearing at back of hub Outer bearing = the bearing at hub nut The spacer is a piece of tube to a set length. It goes between the two bearings You picture is a bit vague and looks like two bearings on a shaft . Best I can tell is a spacer between the two bearings… Given the later set up has the wheel bearings at a closer spacing, using the Td5 parts will not work. Making your own is a whole different story.

How does the spacer work? Does it touch both the inner and outer bearings?