uninformed

@Snagger thanks. As I’m making longer doors/moving the bulkhead rearward and have shortened the rear overhang 200mm, I’m hoping I’ll have enough play in the side panels. I was fortunate enough to buy some rims from a guy with a Perentie (Aus army 110) that had no eyebrows/flares fitted. I went back the next day with plywood and traced the wheel arches. I’ll use this to make a form and cut/reshape them. I think the reason the Series wheel wells step down at the back end is because of the rear light configuration. I do know the Defender wheel arch is closer to the wheel well at its highest point compared to the Series. But that just could be because of arch shape/size.

Hey all, im trying to compile and source parts for my custom rear tub build. My vehicle was a 98 110 cab chassis (no rear tub or rear bodywork). I sourced a SIIA 109 two door tub to form the basis of my build. Two door 110s (let alone tubs) are non existent in Australia. I’ve pulled the 109 tub completely apart and have saved the side panels and underfloor support struts. I’ll be using my 110 rear bulkhead and going from there. I’m just trying to confirm either way, are the underfloor stiffeners and support struts the same height for Series and Defender?

Hubs are painted from factory…

Clearly I’ve been spoilt driving my newer vehicle.

Yes and I don’t think all the kits have the same rotor offset. The Wilwood catalog gives quite a few options though. But it looks like to go bigger and better than factory $$$ have to be spent. That’s ok, I don’t mind paying for quality kit, what I do mind is spending money on something that’s over rated and or has issues related that weren’t told about ( rim clearance, MC/Booster compatibility etc)

On the topic of rear tub parts, does anyone have this part fixed to the rear tub: https://yrmit.co.uk/product/hot-dipped-galvanised-rear-door-thresh-for-drop-down-tailgate-series-2-3/ My 109 tub did not (it was either a hard top or truck cab tub). Were they factory fitted?

@FridgeFreezer looking at the clearance with your wolf rims is interesting, as a couple of companies are stating their 330mm kits will fit. I cant see how that is possible. Imagine spending 2k and shipping them half way across the planet to find out they dont fit......

It’s been slow going here. One of our wettest summers on record, rained nearly every week/weekend. Most we had was 11” in 24hrs. (It’s been raining on and off all day)!None of that helps when building a vehicle out in the open. Finally got the bulkhead and transmission removed. The R380 got a clean and check as it’s being sold, the LT230 a quick clean and stored in the corner. Having it down to the bare chassis allowed more accurate checking of mounting locations. The bulkhead outriggers are 3-4mm out of square and 5mm out of level. The chassis is level at multiple points across the rails which would suggest no twisting. So overall I think I lucked out and got a good one. I also pulled apart the remains of the 109 tub to get an understanding of how they go together and what bits I need. I’ll be using the Defender rear bulkhead, 109 side panels and under floor struts. The rest will be either fabricated or bought new. A little searching shows the bits I need so far but unfortunately from different retailers which makes shipping more expensive.

Im a bit late but some notes on suspension.... The LR radius and A frame arms are forged steel, not cast steel. One of the reason the A frame arms are so beefy is because they have a bend in them, the resultant force line travels straight and near the edge of bend. The suspension geometry does not care what shape your arms are or where you mount your joints in relationship to its arm, it only cars about the centre points of each joint and their relationship to each other, wheel base and COG. However, strength does care about arm shaper and joint mounting. Portals have a offset leverage on the axle housing, the vertical separation of upper and lower control arms at the axle (or radius arm bush separation) has to deal with torque reaction (braking or acceleration) and now that has been increased by the portals and tyre size. Even if you only bolted portals on a stock height LR with stock height tyres you would increase the Anti squat and Anti lift quite a bit (not ideal at all) My factory ball joint and Maxidrive ball joint have 30 degress total of movement, but that is only in one plane. If you have a bit of fore/aft movement (pinion angle change) that 30 will reduce. With a A frame style single joint, it is better to mount the joint shaft/bolt vertically for load forces. Spherical bearings dont like the load they see if the bolt is horizontal. Going to a triangulated 4 link will provide some pros and cons.

Hey all, as I SLOWLY move closer to building my custom rear tub on my 110, im looking for places to buy tub parts. Ive started with an old 109 tub (IIA i think, definitely not SIII) and my 110 rear bulkhead (ex Cab chassis). All I'm keeping so far from the 109 tub is the side panels, and the underfloor support struts. The floor and the floor stiffeners along with the wheel wells will be made locally, but id like some factory parts like rear protecting strip/floor support to mounting angle, possibly the mounting angle, rear end panels, corner brackets with cotter and tread plate (tub floor rubbing strips) Ive looked at YRM Metal Solutions, Paint Man and Bits4Landys. Unfortunately none of them have all the bits I want and makes multiple shippings to Australia expensive. Any other recommendations?

My concern with some of these custom BBKs going forward is getting parts. The relationship between MC/booster and callipers is somewhat crucial. Going to a bigger piston area with no MC change will require more pedal travel (hopefully not run out of travel/stroke) but the pressure built at the calliper will be more for the same pedal input pressure than if a bigger MC fitted. So a bigger MC will require less pedal travel but more input pressure. Then you can change the booster to give more vacuum assist to lesson the pedal input pressure feel (if that makes sense) Thats why im trying to get calliper specifications from the suppliers so I can figure if I need to play with MC and booster.

IMO ABS was developed due to the average driver having little experience and skill in emergency situations and the usual stomp on brakes and death grip of steering wheel applies, resulting in little control. Understandable because very few practice emergency stopping (under various conditions) to become relaxed and proficient at it. Yes there is a point where too much brake is no point, but not in a 16" wheel on a 2.5t vehicle (physical limitations will be the factor). Next time you are in traffic start looking at the brakes on modern cars, especially the big SUV like Q7 etc. Also note the size relationship between front and rear.

@FridgeFreezer what MC and booster set up? Thats just as critical. While changing those on factory callipers can yield some more bite, it wont change multiple braking events as a given calliper/pad/rotor can only do so much (heat dissipation) regardless of line pressure. Your Wilwoods are just under 46mm at 44.45mm and your rotor just bigger (309mm) than the factory 298. But I'm not sure about pad area? Could you not have fitted the bigger rotor? And im curous how you mounted them, and to what axle? BTW those XZL are HEAVY!

As you know there is little support outside a few specialists for LR here and a one off custom set might be more expensive and require more problem solving. Ill give them a look though. Im guessing your upgrade was bolt on from the same car but different version? Id like to hope these big dollar brake kits have been developed with the factory booster and MC. but who knows, and why Im asking for feedback and information on them.

While your tyres are bigger and heavier, the tread and compound will be the limiting factor. I'll be running road legal radials (either BFG MT KM3 or TOYO Open Country MT). Id be interested to know the piston size in your calipers, The digging I did of an American LR Big Brake Kit, fitted with Wilwoods, has me thinking they are smaller than 46mm, but they are on a 330mm rotor so that and bigger pad area would help. As for getting ahead of myself, I daily drove my 110 for over 15 years, work vehicle during the week, everything else outside of that. I had good vacuum with the HS 2.8 Alternator pump, replaced MC and booster and calipers completely rebuilt, it was ok but like everything else I see room for improvement. I can tell you it doesnt stop like my BT50 and that is heavier.

Couldn't have been the Bendix Ultimate upgrade as they don't make stuff for LRs. But basically you put new rotors and pads in, and there are many good rotor and pad options but they wont transform the brakes into something different. The only place i'll ever run a drum is on the T/case. and I love your last comment 🤣 ...

I wonder if you are referring to the Bendix Ultimate 4wd brake upgrade kits, which they only cover modern popular vehicles here (not LRs). And even then they were only rotors, pads and fluid.

Why is it only higher HP engines that get the nod for a upgrade, bigger tyres and heavier rims will contribute to less efficient braking just as much. My build will have more power, bigger tyres, heavier rims, higher kerb weight etc. LRs brake ok but its not great by todays standards, especially pedal pressure to lock up, and yes, my system was fine. Box pushers lol, how many box pushes are selling 2k brake kits for one end, and if they are, its not hard to know something like piston size or go measure one on the shelf. Im starting to suspect they have smaller pistons.... not a great selling point. So far ive contacted 3 companies that have developed their kit. Alcon are by Britpart, but still....

What is very frustrating is trying to get information from these companies. Other than Luke from LOF , who is being very helpful, it’s like getting blood from a stone. If I’m going to spend 1500-2000 pounds on a simple brake kit I think it reasonable to be able to tell me something as simple as piston diameter…

Weren’t the early 90/110 front calipers the smaller piston 41.6mm?

Hey all, has anyone fitted a Front Big Brake kit? Alcon, AP, LOF etc? I’m looking for feedback and information cheers.

Depending on age the Panhard bolt size may change

👍

That’s quite an old Snap-On spanner

Just a quick 1100km round trip to grab a few parts - seat base, rear bulkhead, grill surround and windscreen frame. Early start to get home.