honitonhobbit

This is a dual engine topic Paul

Mass Air Flow Sensor it's actually MAF as MAFF was the Min of Ag It's the box between the turbo and the air filter... Also check your fule pump - Notorious for being very girly. They don't like blocked filters. You need 4bar of fuel at the head to start. There's also a pressure regulator... but that usually causes poor running... Oil in the loom usually does other bad stuff on a D2

EDC? If so Earths Battery Glow Plugs MAFF Flywheel Sensor Timing In that order

I thought I would just resurrect this to give a little update... The July edition of LRM will be my Swansong for said publication. As of 14.12 today I was 'retired' It's been fun I shall still be freelancing though, but no longer under pseudonyms.

Likewise my '89 CSW has rear ARB mounts

Are you sure you have an R380 box - where is reverse? Also have you checked you have a 1.44:1 T box I think Tanuki's 60mph in 3rd is a bit odd - none of my 200Tdi/1.44:1/32" tyre combo's over the last 20 years have done 60 in 3rd. But a 200Tdi with a 1.22:1 will do 60mph in 3rd comfortably. But now he's explained why as he has a 1.22 T box! Listen to the folk on this post so far for advise - it's all good. There's enough rubbish talked about overland prep on forums to feed all the rose beds in the Northern Hemisphere - also avoid the so called professional vehicle prep companies like the plague; most know nothing about the realities... Go Red/Red on the rear - similar to Mike's Red/Green, but the Red/Red are the Driver's side, with Red/Green being the Passenger, so slightly shorter. I would use air bags rather than 130 springs. Alternatively the TD5 or TDCI progressive heavy duty OE springs are excellent. Yellow/Yellow on the front is spot on. But OE not Britpart. get spendy on the shock, something decent like Bilstiens but avoid the latest version of OME's like an STD. Dump the OE bushes and go SuperPro. Rather than go Polybush, go OE rubber. Use hand carved wood rather than Dflex or Flotech as wood will last longer (this is sarcasm) Avoid 33" tyres - as mentioned before, they are almost impossible to get. Stick with 235/85x16's on Modulars. The Disco rims are excellent and are rated at 1660kgs per wheel (!) but you get a more stable ride with Modulars. Avoid spacers, simple because setting up bearings is a PITA. Avoid Wolf rims, unless you can buy a set cheap and then sell them on for a big profit - people pays loads for the 'Wolf' rim, generally get a set of 130 rims and would have been better getting Modulars. Do not overload your vehicle. Work at a max of 80% of it's MAM/Gross weight - this gives you leeway Your mechanic was right - he sounds like he has his head screwed on - listen to him For free decent advice try www.offroadpreparation.com carp website, good people with a reputation for sorting out the mess created by those who should know better

okalee dokalee - thanks

That would do very nicely ta

The flexible rubber hose with the wire in that you use for air intake and snorkel stuff?

Probably shocked by all the replies - so much to wade through

How about a Freebie V6? Not a bad engine all in all

We break the TDci's for a past time at work - they don't take the abuse. I agree with Tanuki on the gear ratio's - just wrong. I like TD5's a lot and a TD5 90 is a fun vehicle and '03 is a good year. If I had to chose between just the two. I know here I would go.... But I would still have a damned good look around at the rest of the potentials

I've just had a fast and steep learning curve to EDC and I have to say, once the timing is set up properly it's great. It's so simple, yet clever. Economy is good too. Made me wonder why I've always avoided it before As for 200 Tdi pumps - I'm on my 7th 200Tdi over the last 21 years - not consecutive though. I did a quick tally of the mileage between the lot and it comes to a Nun's Cough over 1 million miles. I've yet to have pump wear issues - even on Siberian Diesel.

Did you ever see one fitted with the Weber Alpha system? I've seen one with twin Webbers on but never injection. Also seen a turbocharged one and a supercharged one

They are like that! When they are good they are just so damned good and when they are bad they are enough to drive you to drink...

I'd go for a nice £6.5k 300tdi 110 CSW and save the wad for other things A 90 is not a family vehicle, unless you have a nice estate car in reserve. A 110 is just better all round - even for all but the most extreme off road antics. 110's hold their value and 300Tdi's hold their value better than TD5's and Transit engines Mike hit the mole on the head with the spade when he mentioned 'fix it yourself' But then that's just my thoughts

In the olden days back before Land Rover had even bored out the 2.25 petrol or diesel and turbo's were restricted to a very odd aftermarket conversation, my 80" ran a 2.0ltr Pinto, as did my mum's 80" trialler. It was a really nice conversion. As I said in my previous post, it depends what the OP actually wants. If he wants a crazy arsed project that takes 1000's of man hours and a complete vehicle re-build to make work then there are various options. If he does 10k a year as a daily driver, there are other options. If it's for a bit of a laugh, then more options again. if it was me and mine, I would re-build the 2.25. Maybe shave the head by a few thou, light re-bore, stage 2 head, better carb, lightened flywheel, up spec the brakes a tadge. A nice bit of extra wiz bang pop but no need for too much more. But then I would just use it as a toy and I have little interest in spending all my limited free time in a workshop when I could be driving in the sun!

I think what Mike is meaning is that USING roof lights on the Queen's Highway is illegal - and he is also right to quote the C&U regs as having precedent in law over the lighting regs. It is unlikely that anyone will take you to task about it until you have caused an accident by using said roof lights on the public highway; and then you will be a target for the book and all the poo that has just hit the fan. But then this is the same for the host of potentially illegal mods so common amongst 4x4 owners.

Ah, I missed the EDC bit Mass airflow sensor dirty or faulty Number 4 injector sensor feed Flywheel optic dirty De-laminated hose Blocked air filter EGR valve duff partially blocked intercooler

I've got two 9/16ths spanners specifically for the job - but I've also got a very thin walled 9/16th 12 sided socket on a 1/4" wobble extension with an adaptor to a multi-angle 3/8" drive - works a treat

I've never liked roof lights. When all is said and done they are pretty pointless unless you are doing the Camel Trophy, high speed night driving to fast through deep mud or crossing lots and lots of deep rivers at night. Who does that? I sat down in my 110 one night out on a drove road and marked out the bad bits and the good bits of standard lights with decent bulbs. Low beam is fine. High beam leaves a narrow band half way down it's light beam. I then spent 4 years looking for some decent spots that didn't cost the earth, didn't look cr&p, were sacrificial and didn't look highly theft worthy. I've now got a nice 10quid pair of Rally Giants bolted to the winch mount, set to illuminate the narrow bit on high beam and working off the high beam. Legal with C&U regs. Cheap. Strong and they actually do the job properly. Having said that, I do like that mount on the P38. It's subtle. It will work well and without doubt these uber-bling LED bars do put out some light. It would also be difficult to nick quickly. When I get round to it I am going to mount a work light to the front of my roof rack...

What do you do with the vehicle?

It might just be overfuelling and need the fuelling screw easing off

Mike, I 'd agree with Boydie on this - never had a problem with the valves - I just renew them when they get tired. Makes it nice and simples. I'd like to stick to mushroom tops but there's been a spate of thieving round here recently so I'm using an old Southdown one at the moment