honitonhobbit

The other thing to bear in mind is who owned the vehicle before you. When you buy a motor, unless you knew it's previous owner like BFF; then you need to start at one end and replace everything and anything that is dubious; as well as budgeting for future replacements, preferably as upgrades. Best vehicle to start off roading in is a 2.25 Diesel 109 Series 3 on worn Avon Range Masters. No PS, limited grip, little grunt, a big old overhang and lock like an oil tanker in the Straits of Hormuz. Then work on the theory that you need to improve before you get spendy I think it should be compulsory.

On experience, one Pirtek is not necessarily as good as another. Avonmouth Depot is spotty dog, but the old Taunton Depot was poor. I'm sure there must be other hydraulic hose folk - like Hose Doctor who are good. It would be worth asking either a farmer or a plant operator

I used GKN, then I went to Timkin, then I swapped back to GKN. Now I go to a bearing supplier and use a rather nice Japanese make that make GKN look like Lego. I'll get the name; but they are about 15quid plus the vodka and tonic.

Yup - heavy shock proof They use to do more grades... I always overfill - just by filling on an angle. Pete Rowe suggested it years ago (along with the Red Line product range). He reckoned that the greatest shock loads on a diff were on a climb; so to give the diff a little help, overfilling meant the pinion was always fully immersed. Pete Rowe is possibly the most knowledgeable LR gearbox man in the Spiral Arm and he successfully ran/runs an 8.4 Olds lump in a !04 hybrid comping; and has done for 25 years or more, so I reckoned I'd go with it. I like Red Line stuff - it's very good. I use the CV grease in all the winches I re-build - about 100 or so a year on average; and equivalent oils in *274's, Husky's and RE's

I just use Red Line Hi Impact Diff Oil, over fill and change on a regular basis. I've had one 2 pinion diff fail in 25 years. And that includes clients motors. The diff that failed had 220k on it and was over 20 years old; I was stuck in a gravel stream bed and cadence braking, half shaft snapped and lunched the diff; so driver error...

I used balancing sand for a long while - it's like a AFS90 single grain size sand, so it's not abrasive or dusty. It goes in dry and is treated with some clever stuff to repel water. When sold the wheels/tyres I opted for Dyna-beads - they were almost as good Now I just get the wheels and tyres balanced by a decent tyre specialist

When I had new oil cooler hoses built up for the 100" I went to Pirtek. They laughed when I mentioned pressure and temp. Lowest temp stuff they had was 350 degrees and pressure was 300psi. Made a really nice job as well. I got them to take the fixings off the old hoses and then thread the ends of the hose so that if one was to burst/abrade I could simply get a cheap(er) hose insert

As Chris said, once you fit Castor correction arms or bushes, you really need to fit a DC front prop as you make the angles more acute. Castor correction only works on handling issues caused by the lift and to be honest on 33's, in a Defender, handling isn't going to be spotty dog any way... Quality UJ's, fitted correctly should last longer, but how long is a piece of string as driving style comes into it as well

Monroe Adventures are fine Pro-comp are a bit soft and better suited to off road conditions rather than hard road use as they seem to heat up quicker than the Monroes. But if it's your wife's motor, unless she drives like my wife, you should be fine Have a look at the GAS set up and springs that Britpart

You're definitely a good man John

They are a tenner and meant to be changed at 12k intervals. I have one in the spares box - new - and can post it if you need it; call it an early Christmas present. Alternatively clean it with carb or brake cleaner (or acetate) Also bear in mind that the 200tdi is a 'wet' engine and it is normal for it to leak form every internal and external orifice... I posted a copy of a dealer letter from '89 on here long, long ago and the amount of oil loss that was acceptable by LR is ridiculous in any other engine

All mine are girls )-: I will be 59 when the youngest hits her teens )-: I was a bad person in a past life

Well done Mike - it takes a true man to admit to missing something obvious; join the club!

15 year old daughters are possibly the most unpleasant things on God's green earth

That gloss paint on wax is superb for cleaning up after children - I've been cleaning up after the little treasures for 15 years and my 2 year old could make a black room dirty. I also waxed the back of the 110 when I timber lined it - for dogs and kids. When you mix ice cream with boxer hair and spaniel drool, you usually have to burn the afflicted item - a quick wipe over with a damp cloth was all that was required... It doesn't work with the venom spouted by a 15 year old daughter who hates you though

Wax the grooves with paint on/dry hard furniture wax, then a quick hoover will pull all the dust out...

All LR Camel vehicles were assembled in SVO. They were pretty much re-built mechanically as they needed to be as good as possible and not fail in the eye of the world's press; especially under the utter beasting that they were given. But I think you have something on this whole 'running in' thing...

Cool beans!

Hi Steve, we have met but I doubt you'll remember. I'll take the opportunity to thank you for all the excellent service you have given to my clients over the years. You and your staff have never let my recommendations down...

Just get's better and better John - regards to herself and to the wee big man

Nope, lost you there...

As always Red, your subtly and empathy amaze me

yup.. but at least the garage is in better nick

And don't forget DPD, Sh*tefrieght, and all the other non Royal Mail monkey delivery companies Although DPD get my lowest score - how can you lose a whole Defender rear door for God's sake

My garage is too low, too narrow and too short...