Chris Sargent

I would check the engine mounts in particular the engine tie rod on the rear right hand underside of the engine.

Did you mean the diff mounts were on the wrong way?

Good stuff.

Could be one or more faulty injectors, MAF, crankshaft sensor or a fuel pressure regulator - or the the fuel pump as you said. You can test the injectors using two tests: 1. The leak off test - do a google search. 2. Pull off each plug from the injectors one by one. When you pull off the electrical plug, there should be a noticeable difference in the running of the engine. If not, it suggests that injector is faulty. MAF - just try disconnecting it and seeing if it makes any difference. Fuel Pump - try holding steady revs at 4k whilst stationary. If it splutters or does seem to be able to hold steady revs, could suggest the fuel pump. Crankshaft sensor - will give rough running across the rev range I think. If all else fails then it could be the fuel pressure regulator on the end of the HP fuel rail. First off, check that the connection to it is fine and clean - unplug and plug it back on a few times and also wiggle the wires whilst the engine is running to see if it's damaged - this is a known fault. Otherwise, there are some seals that fail on it and the only way to check is take it off and have a look. I believe you can get a new seal kit.<br>

How did you manage that?!

If bled correctly,It can't hurt.

Seriously, change the bearings for gkn ones. If the trouble started after you changes th vcu bearings it must be them. They'll cost you leas to change than a trip to the dealers too.

I've seen a few people have these problems caused by using cheaper bearings, in particular from eBay. The bad ones seem to be Brit part ones and are the most common. Mine has been doing the same since I changed my vcu and I suspect it's down to the bearings. Most people will recommend gkn bearings. I've decided to love with mine for now though.

Which make VCU bearings did you use? Are the mounting brackets definietly line up on the VCU?

Hi Lisa, This is a fairly common fault. If the mirroer definitely won't go back in place - you should try it several times to try to get it re-synch itself - then the only option is to take the wing mirror off and have a look. There is some more info here: http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/folding-mirror-problem-69466.html Chris

What was the issue you had - just increased steering effort at low speeds?

It's got some spring clips holding the plug on. You can put a small screwdriver between the housing and the plug to lever one side and and press in with your finger as normal on the other, then just pull it up.<br>

Mine was stuck too when I did it... I managed to get it off by putting a ratchet spanner on the main uj bolt... then I put another, slightly smaller nut in between the head of the UJ bolt and the end of the propshaft. If you then undo the UJ bolt with the ratchet spanner, it's head comes up, presses against the smaller nut and pushes the propshaft off as you undo it. You can't get it all the way off like this but it shifted enough (about a CM or so) so that the splines unseize and you can get if off the rest of the way fairly easily.

Mine is my girlfriends car and she bought it to replace a BMW Z3 - definitely feels like a step back for her! Still, whilst I've been working on hers in the garage, she's been driving around in my M3 with the roof down!<br>

You should be fine with a recon one, especially for the price difference. Good luck and let us know how you get on as I may need to replace mine soon!

That doesn't sound too bad.... as you've said, it's a bit disappointing when you've just bought the car but you're bound to find a few things wrong with it over time after you've bought it.... and as the others have said, most things can be fixed and aren't critical to the running of the car. You should've seen what was wrong with mine when I bought it... http://forum.landrovernet.com/showthread.php/208284-Buying-a-LHD-Conversion-Freelander-Beware-and-some-advice. I'm pretty mechanically minded and I missed a few things on this one - but then, it's stuff you wouldn't spot on a test drive unless you started tearing out carpets and dashboards!!!

How you getting on with it then?

Because it's trying to move forward with the clutch depresssed, this shows that the clutch is not working correctly and probably suggest there's a hydraulic leak somewhere, or the system needs bleeding. Although the gearbox doesn't have the right ratios and might not have uprated parts, I can't seen that a broken gearbox could have these symptoms either way... so I very inclined to think the clutch has a fault somewhere.

Good news! Glad you got it sorted - I should have said to try this first to be fair... but forgot!

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if it makes one single click when you turn the key, then it's likely to be the starter motor solenoid. You can get a repair / replacement kit from eBay for about a tenner. Takes no more than 2 hours to fit.

Hi - the symptoms to me sound like the ignition barrel.... the dim lights would of course suggest an earth fault but the fact that it lights up after several attempts kinda rules that out for me... The ignition barrel is a known failure point - first try would be to squirt some electrical cleaner in it or if you can, take the cover off and try to give it a good squirt. Good luck, Chris

Could you consider an LPG converstion? I've never had one but a friend of mine swears by them - he likes to drive big V8 yank-tanks.

Are you having to change the whole plastic tray.... mine was a complete mess too - I had to drill out the all the pop-rivets then the clinch nut in the chassis stopped grabbing the nut... took about 3 days to change a fuel filter in the end!! Crazy design. Thankfully I didn't break anything so once I'd cleaned up the brackets, gave them a coat of hammerite, pop-rivetted all back together and put a new clinch nut on the chassis, it was fixed... oh yeah, and I have to buy a new earth tab for the fuel filter..! I wouldn't worry about changing the fuel pump - the worse that can happen is that it'll stop working... and then you can change it if needs be?

Hi there - have you had a good read through this thread.... there's lots of things to check in there. http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/td4-lack-power-70mph-fixed-77147.html