PeterW

got mine too... typical, just after I finished the engine !

Try Richard at Glencoyne Engineering in Thetford Cheers Peter

Martin It should be screwed in with small countersunk screws. Take these out and the channel should come out with it, replace with new.. Cheers Pete

OK - that makes it a bit more of a challenge..! Is it a Fairey Capstan or the Aeroparts one.? You'll need to find someone with one to copy the driveshaft, and I think it has at least 1 shearpin in the assembly somewhere. Do you have access to lathe/mill etc..? The driveshaft has a ball end to it, and it is most likely hardened after machining so its not a quick DIY job. thought about trying to convert it to hydraulic..? A hydraulic motor and a PAS pump setup with a shuttle valve etc might be quicker and easier than all the gubbins for shaft drive. Just a thought Cheers Pete

You're lucky... Our local tips all have barriers but if you have anything that looks vaguely commercial then you have to get a permit - you send a copy of your V5 and an application form to state you aren't a trader ! Still doesn't stop plumbers and electricians with their '££ waste ££' dropping in without a permit... Cheers Peter

I used a length of 25mm Angle Aluminium from B&Q and sandwiched the old bit in between - its been on 8 years and is showing no sign of corroding yet ! It saves drilling out all the rivets in the old section and re-attaching it. Cheers Pete

Finn This looks like its the brackets and control levers missing, along with the sliding bush/drive engagement block. I'm no expert on this stuff, but its not looking too bad - by drive dog, do you mean just the end drive or do you have the whole shaft..? Making that would be the hardest as it has sliding sections and takes all the torque of the engine. PG Winches used to be the only real supplier of bits but they closed down last year I think. Cheers Peter

I've just fitted a complete refurb engine, real shame was I didn't know the injector pump leaked so I'm only after that bit but others might want the whole package Cheers Pete

Thankfully its not mine... I do still have the leaky injector pump, anyone actually followed the forum how-to and changed the o-ring etc..? Cheers Pete

Did it have a leaky injector pump...??? Just finished fitting mine, and to be honest its started first turn yet I noticed its weeping from the injector pump spindle so there's another job to do... Number would be good tho just to check - is it the one stamped just above the injector pump..? Cheers Pete

Bob Is it just in 3rd..?? A loud thumping can be a symptom of the rear crown wheel on the diff missing a tooth - does it jump out of 3rd too if you don't hold it in..? Gearbox rebuilds aren't too bad if you have patience... Cheers Peter

Autoglym Engine & Machine Cleaner is on 3 for 2 at Halfrauds here Its very good, and is supposedly environmentally friendly ! Cheers Peter

Does anyone have a list of the resistance values for these different senders..? I'm trying to work out the difference between a S3 2.25 diesel sender and a 200TDi sender to get the right value resistor to correct the readings on a conversion. A table of all resistances from cold (15c) to hot (95c) would be really useful.... Cheers Pete

I have a 'stock' S3 Diesel 2.25 and the only upgrades it has are 7.50x16 tyres and its perfectly capable off road. I'm currently changing the engine to a 200TDi only because the old lump is shot and I wanted something a little more modern - initially its going to be a 200Di, so power won't be up a huge amount on stock either. So far ( ) I've never managed to get badly stuck when offroad. A couple of weeks ago I was down at Rockingham with the Cobley brothers playing in a D4 and Luke did say my S3 would manage their course with proper handling. 9 times out of 10, its the driver that makes the error and its not vehicle capability you should just consider ! You only need to look on Youtube to see what happens when a perfectly capable vehicle is driven by someone less capable.... Cheers Pete

Have they been bled using a pressure bleeder or the old style pump and hold of the brake pedal..? Pressure or vacuum bleeders make a much better job and you are less likely to get issues. Cheers Pete

Thanks !! The Series fuel filter has a spill pipe on the top, so has 3 connections. It looks like the 200TDi only has 2, which means the spill return to the tank only connects to the injector pump..? Cheers Pete

Western Thanks for that ! Happy with No1 in the pic, on my new spill rail there is a second stub pipe coming off the banjo connection that I assumed must lead back to the tank return..? If so, where does the tank return from the filter go, or am I missing something..?? Cheers Pete

Afternoon Anyone near a 200Tdi with a tape measure..? I could do with knowing the diameter of the small stub and the larger inlet if possible - I need to make up some inlet pipework and I've been offered some alloy tubing for free... Cheers Pete

I use Paddock as its local, and I know I can ask stupid questions that get laughed at from the main stealers. Yes, they do sell S**tpart, and other cheapo bits, but I was pleasantly surprised when I ordered a load of bits recently and all bar one is a LR Gen part. These are the same gen parts I was quoted by a main dealer at 3-4x the price I paid at Paddock, with discount too... Lets be honest, even Land Rover gen parts are pretty poor to start with - I have a gen parts bulkhead that was brand new and when I fitted it it had proper prep, primer and top coats, and stonechip protection, yet its STILL RUSTING !! I agree with whats been said though, we expect suspect parts and then question to the nth degree to make sure we are getting the right stuff when its actually an upgrade part - look at the quality of stuff from people such as LLama4x4 and X-Eng and you will see there are people trying to buck the trend. The LR world is not the only one with poor quality - check out any kit car manufacturer or some of the bolt on suppliers for the boy racers. GRP panels that redefine the word kwalitee.... Cheers Pete

Try this lot - Moore International Don't think there is a variant they don't do !! Cheers Pete

Makes me think mine has been 'adjusted' slightly.... Hmmm

Is the timing pin supposed to fit when the pulley is 'at rest' between 2 injection cycles..? on mine, I have to start to turn the pulley clockwise as though against a spring for probably 4-5mm before the pin will line up and go in. Normal..? cheers Pete

Thanks So thats neither the barrel or the switch then... Anyone know if its removable or repairable..? Cheers Pete

Richard at Glencoyne suggests using a relay to bridge from the glowplug circuit into the solenoid - I'll work out what I need and I'll make up a relay/loom to suit. Cheers Pete

Quick question... Is the thread on a Turbo return hose on the 200TDi metric or imperial at the block end..? It looks like 3/4BSP but I wanted to check - anyone near one to measure and find out..? Mine is 85 miles away... Cheers Pete