Roverdrive

Just as a matter of interest we have had to replace our Halon system on the ship, and have gone for something called NOVEC. Not a very catchy name, but since the chemical name is 1,1,1,2,2,4,5,5,5-NONAFLOURO-4-(TRIFLOUROMETHYL)-3-PENTANONE I think it may catch on. It absorbs heat, and chemically attacks the fire. Not seen this in any portable extinguishers yet.

Do the MSA ( RAC) require annual testing? g-rover agree with what you are saying, but the storage becomes a problem with some cars. A case of accepted risk I think. I have a Halon ( minus two squirts!) and an AFFF in the RRC, which might be OK as a first aid extinguisher but that is about it. I guess it boils down to how the car is running on the day. If it is jumping out of low box, and only running on 6 1/2 cyl I would probably follow the run and get upwind school of thought!

Not sure on this age of vehicle, but the visous couplings can seize up causing premature tyre wear and eventually failure of the IRD on the gearbox. Seem to remember that the bushes on the anti roll bars wear as well, perhaps that is the banging? Delivering car with an oil leak and no hanbrake is unforgivable

Don't understand the issues with DP settling. We use them on ships, which are also subject to a great deal of vibration with no "clumping" evident after a year. ( We tend to set a couple off for excercise and refill them at this time - all others are opened up and checked) Luckily the only vehicle fire I have been a party to was quickly extinguished with a couple of squirts of Halon, though as it was brake fluid dripping on an exhaust manifold it kept re igniting. AFFF would have given the vital cooling effect as well. I think Russ would probably agree a combination works well. DP to knock the fire down quick, and AFFF to blanket and cool it. No point bi*ching about the mess DP makes if it does the job. I'd rather jet wash the inside of my RRC than scrap it after a fire.

Hmmm. Seems I will be a voice in the wilderness then! I fitted genuine Polybushes all round on my RRC 5 years ago, primarily because a number of the std rubber ones were shot, and having been through the series appretiship (SP?) of hacksawing / burning out old spring bushes, didn't feel like replacing like with like. In the 5 years I have had to replace one panhard rod bush, that is it. The beauty of it was in undoing the bolt, and changing the bush without any presses or hacksaws! On mud terrain tyres, any difference in NVH is impossible to discern. Just my tuppence.

A few places to check FOR RUST, but not an exhaustive list by any means! Inner wings from bulkhead to lights A pillar for rust Sills below seats Footwells Rear wheel arch, both where the seat belt bolts through, and the inner seam where it meets the floor. Rear body cross member. All chassis, especially round the fuel tank Oil leaks - if it isn't dripping it is probably empty! Check all electrics work, they are created in a dark hell called Lucas. Dual fuel has been covered. Make sure there is an LPGA cert with any gas installation. Doesn't mean the installation is perfect, but most insurance companies wont consider the vehicle without one. Top and bottom tail gates rust like f@#+ I get about 12 mpg with aggressive mud tyres on mine, up to 14 mpg on 205 road tyres if "driving miss daisy" I think the Borg warner transfer box is partly responsive for this - not just a heavy right foot! might get more out of one with a standard transfer box with locking diff. I am sure someone will be along in a mo to say I am talking c**p! Remember: It is a big Mecanno set, so nothing is impossible to fix. BTW what bike are you selling?

I have heard that it is a simple job to do ( red wire - blue wire which one???) Alleged top speed 112 mph. Rather you than me!

Yes by the time I had engaged the dog clutch driving the brain, there had been FAR too much typing to delete, especially at the speed I type. Think the bottle of red after the beer might have had something to do with it. If it is serptentine, then something is out of line as you say.

Sounds like the plate may be stuck to the flywheel. You will know if you have the hydraulics bled properly as your knee will click with the effort! Try wedging the clutch pedal down and leaving it for a day or so. Sometimes works. Used to have similar problems on the LWT, got away with starting in gear, and driving with the clutch down before hitting the brakes. Freed it off once, and broke the layshaft the second time I tried it! 101 box is a lot stronger but if you try the above method use 4th low

IMHO a misalignment of 2mm is FA! M8s alternator sits on an angle compared to the other pulleys without any problem. Mine is not as bad, but can't be considered either straight or in line, and has had the same belt for the last 3 years or so. Certainly more than 200 yrds worth! There may well be a direction in which the belts are laaid during construction, but I have never come across instructions for directional fitting. BTW are we talking of V belts or serpentine? Knew I shouldn't have had that last beer or three.

Not so sure about that as we had the Td4 SE which had both the spot lights and the heater. Tended to come on a lot in the mornings, but could not get a definitive answer on when it was supposed to come on so couldn't argue the issue at the time.

Think my system has a simple t piece for the filling line, and a shuttle valve arrangment for the outlet so that the liquid is always drawn from the tank with the highest pressure. Not a change over as such as both tanks empty at more or less the same rate.

Isn't the Disco Auto "chipped" or whatever the hell they do these days to give 134 bhp instead of 111bhp?

The tanks should have a cover over the valve units. - About 6" in diameter. Under this is the valve unit. There should be two knurled screws which are the inlet and outlet valves. Just make sure these are fully open. It is worth knowing that different garages may have different pressure setting on the pump as well. HTH

Check the filling valves haven't vibrated shut What size are the tanks? What was the maximum you got in from new? Normal fill is 80% of tank volume, assuming ALL the air is vented off. Was this done? I put a few litres in each tank on mine, and then shut the valves and removed the tanks, tuneed them upside down, which puts the dip tube at the top, and cracked the outlet valve to vent off the air.

Nice one!

Hi Been trialling an auto RRC for a few years. 1st low all the time, and use the brakes for downhill decents where needed. As said further up the thread, don't allow your speed to build up in the first place, as it is harder to slow down. You will develop a feel for what the wheels are doing. Cadence braking is the way to go until you are confident with control. If it locks the wheels, gently accelererate to regain steeering control. I found that using 2nd for climbs tended to cause a change down half way up the hill, promoting wheelspin, hence the use of 1st all the time now. HTH

IIRC the construction and use regs state that the driving lights may only come on with main beam, and should have a warning light to show they are in use. If you are outside the UK ignore the above!

Cheers for the replies guys. Ordered one today from HKO Gas Power in Birmingham. Seemed to know what he was on about - time will tell!

If you are in Liverpool, give Alan a ring at Overlandrs. He is based in Litherland, and will beat the LR Supermarket prices nine times out of ten, as well as knowing what he is talking about! I hold my hand up to being a mate of his, but worth contacting him for the price of a phone call. Overlandrs 0151 476 7002

Presently Chief Engineer on board a diving support vessel working off the coast of Brazil. Been doing this since I left school, and REALLY happy I don't work in an office

Might be worth checking the holes that the trailing arms bolt to. If these have worn oval, you will get relative movement between the bolt and the axle under high loads. My RRC had a similar problem on the front axle, cured by welding washers over the holes.

I wonder if we can tax all the hot air coming from the Palace of Westminster? Surely that contributes to global warming? Think I'll sneak out at night with my gas guzzling SUV and shoot some fuffy bunnies

I wonder if we can tax all the hot air coming from the Palace of Westminster? Surely that contributes to global warming? Think I'll sneak out at night with my gas guzzling SUV and shoot some fuffy bunnies

It is all a big publicity stunt as far as I am concerned. If they had the will to do something abuot it, they would switch off all the floodlights and be done with it, but they won't because it "looks pretty". The majority of the lights in our house are low energy ones, but having said that I am forever going round after the kids switching off unused ones, and do get me started about the wifes " mood lighting" Perhaps we should get a Van de Graff generator to light up that time of the month I much prefer motorway driving without the sodium lights at night. I think it goes back to holidays as a kid, when my Dad would drive us down to Cornwall, but travel at night to avoid the "traffic". As a youngster there was always the trmendous excitement of travelling at night, as well as being up late.God knows what he would make of the present traffic on our motorways. I seem to have digressed from the original rant. Sorry about that.