Swifty oh no

Remove the pulley from the end of the crankshaft. You then have a cover that sits in front of it, remove that cover by either drilling out the rivets that hold it in place or undo the screws that they have been replaced with. You then can remove and replace the seal. When replacing the cover I would suggest tapping out he holes in the crankcase and fixing with screws incase it ever needs doing again. Was that the answer to the question that was not asked?

Yes it is.

You could try Drop Zone in Pulborough Sussex, lots of spares for Lightweights. I got one from there that did not have vent panels fitted or vent panel holes so it was quite easy to sort out and refurb to and fit. It was not double skin either so options for rust to hide are very few! Bit of a one off though and I was lucky as not bothered about having the vents, rarely put the canvas on anyway..

Ex Navy because part of is it is painted blue....mmmm not sure about that. Looks home made to me.

Just remove the floor to do it, less brutal and easier than messing with the tub jacking it up etc.

Used the old original top cover and no problems now all tightens up nicely with good movement of the shafts. Many thanks Second Jeremy

You know, I think I might have swapped the top cover in the dim and distant past as the one fitted originally did not have the top filler cap (the hole had not been machined out so it meant filling gearbox form side level plug so I changed it for one that did. I still have the original top so will give that a try and see what happens. This crossed my mind after I posted.

Putting the top cover back on the gearbox after replacing the selector shaft seals and if I do the fixing bolts up any tighter than finger tight the selector shafts will not move. at finger tight they all move and can get all gears just the slightest nip with a spanner and none of them will move. I would not have thought that finger tight would be good enough. It feels like there should be a gasket between the main case and top cover to give the clearance for the shafts to move although I know there isn't meant to be one. Any thought or advice please guys?

I HAVE 2.25 PETROL FITTED WITH A WEBER CAB AND I FIND THAT WHEN STARTING WITH A HOT ENGINE IT NEEDS A QUIET A BIT OF THROTTLE WHEN YOU TURN THE KEY BUT VIRTUALLY NONE FORM COLD.

If you go here:- http://www.land-rover-lightweight.co.uk/LRL%20Wheels.html Scroll down you will find the calculations for which speedo you should be using with which tyre sizes.

It will likely cost you more to convert your series as you have described you what to, than what you will save in income tax. Simple way around it ( the tax not the ride comfort)is to put a top on without side windows and it will then be classed as commercial for which you pay something around 500 quid a year for the benefit of driving to and from home every day. Or something like that any way, it's been a couple of years since I checked that one out.

LIGHTWEIGHTS RULE!

Mt Weber runs a little rough with the choke out until properly warmed up ( which takes about twice the time my old Zenith did) but nothing that severe. I did have the same problem a while back though and it turned out to be the condenser.

I bought a couple of the very basic rectangular mirrors from an autojumble a few years back for fiver brand new. They don;t look out of place on a Series and you can use the normal mirror stalks on the doors. IMO they look better than the defender ones lots of people fits and they are easier to fit. http://www.spafaxmirrors.com/

1974 2.25 petrol. What are the relative merits/non-merits of removing the valve and just venting the crankcase straight into the air intake elbow and the inlet on the carb adapter at the manifold?

Use a socket set handle with a half inch drive on it

I am changing the oil seal on the pinion output of the rear diff on the lightweight. Got the rear prop off and the split pin out but cannot budge the castleted nut. Any ideas fellas?

Shackle bolts 60 to 70lbf ft U axle bolts 58lbf ft Front and rear are the same.

Motorway speeds, that'll be about 45mph then would it?

Yeah a grinder was an option but I like a challenge so loads of WD 40 over the pst week and a new 18mm socket, all off now although one of the legs of one of the U bolts did shear as soon as I put any pressure on the nut to undo it. I will be replacing the U bolts and all of the shackle bolts etc. Out of interest I am assuming all bolts etc are as a standard SIII, hope so that is what I have ordered? (not springs, I have used, v. good nick ones from a lightweight after someone changed to parrots rubbish.

Cheers, better get off to get hold of a metric socket then as I don't have any.

That's SIII 74 not SII

I have a SII74 lightweight and am changing the rear springs at the same time as fitting anew rear crossmember. I have tried loads of imperial sockets on the rear axle "U" bolt nuts but cannot get anything I have to fit properly. Can somebody tell me what size socket I need for this please? Cheers

Let's try that again. Floor already out, that was bit of a pain as well. Why so many rivets!!

Floor alreqdy out, that was bit of a pin as well. Why so many rivets!!