nickcc
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Everything posted by nickcc
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Best if garage uses a Tapley (type) meter rather than the brake rollers or you may end up with a knackered IRD, Diff or VCU.
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Glad you found the problem, thanks for the reply as it could point other members in the right direction. Many replies are guesswork, bit like asking the Doctor to diagnose you over the phone
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Tried front wheel drive, when waiting for new VCU (and for me to be bothered to fit it) and found consumption about the same, the reason being due to faster acceleration and me having a heavier right foot.
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Not had the problem yet but many posts on various Forums suggest a faulty brake light switch.
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Sounds like either the Diff pinion bearing or the IRD gears or bearings may be the problem, if you are getting a bad vibration through the gear stick I would think it more likely to be the IRD.
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freelander knocking on full lock but maybe not ird ???
nickcc replied to maxtherotti's topic in Freelander Forum
The CV joint runs in grease so shouldn't be any rust or carp in there, when they wear you get a knocking on full lock. I would suspect worn suspension rubbers especially as you get the noise when driving over speed humps, should be plenty of info if you do a search on here. -
The diagram shows the layout for the early TD4 the later, certainly the facelift version, does not have the LP pump in the tank or under the bonnet, the LP pump and filter is located near the O/S/R wheel arch.
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Not sure of the temperature where you are (when not in the UK) but the glow plug warning light does not usually show on my TD4 during the summer.
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On some Freelanders (most but not all) the air con operates automatically when in the demist position, perhaps the vibration is the aircon cooling fan operating or a fault with the aircon. Try operating the aircon when not in the demist position, if the vibration starts then I would suspect the aircon.
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Could be the VCU support bearings (1st guess) or the Diff pinion bearing or the IRD failing. Try dropping the rear drive train off (heavy) and see if the noise disappears if it does then it will almost certainly be one of the above.
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Alright then, the differential/subframe mountings.
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You could also check the rear axle mountings, if they are badly worn (or broken away from the body) this will cause the snaking problem.
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I would have looked at the back of the original shells for either a part number or a + sign followed by the oversize number. You could also use a micrometer on the journals and compare it to the Haynes manual (or similar) There is no guarantee that the crankshaft was the standard size when the engine was first assembled.
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Might be worth checking the intercooler/turbo hoses first as split or holed hoses can cause many different fueling problems.
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Nice to read feedback, another possible defect we can remember.
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I know that the freelander is not the best for aerodynamics but the Rover 75 auto with the same engine that we previously owned went like whatsit off a shovel (until, of course, the headgasket failed)
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Always used the wet and dry method during my 50 years as a mechanic, no problem as long as you use a flat sanding block to keep the surface flat. Using any kind of metal scraper on aluminium type heads can result in a badly scored head.
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Fine wet or dry lubricated with oil, make sure you use a sanding block.
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Blown head gasket - will a replacement engine be reliable
nickcc replied to SimonTemplar's topic in Freelander Forum
Definitely go for the TD4, you often read of this engine covering well over 150,000 miles without any problems but I've yet to read of a 1.8 K series reaching anywhere close without the headgasket failing (this includes the rover, mgf and freelander) -
The pollen filter housing fixings on later Freelanders are bolts and require a very slim socket (grind down a 1/4" drive socket to fit) You can buy a modified insert for the crankcase breather (pcv filter) from any BMW dealer (uk cost £24 app) which will save you replacing the L/R supplied filter element every 12000 miles.
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Wheeler Dealers used leather paint on a Rolls they bought, brought the seats up like new but they sent them away to be painted, not sure if it's for the average DIY'er. I can just imagine what a total cock up a novice would make.
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Think they were dropped in 2005, ring the dealer if you want the exact date.
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The FBH was dropped and replaced with a ceramic heater on later models (read this on another forum) my 2005 TD4 certainly does not have one, also no heated windscreen.
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TD4's have problems with intercooler hose failure, usually holed or split. Black smoke under load is the usual symptom, check all your intercooler hoses (3)
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My 2005 TD4 also has the box with two tail pipes, I was told by my LR dealer that either were suitable and it all depended on the stock level LR held when the car was made.