v8classic
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Everything posted by v8classic
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Hi Gents Thanks for coming back so quickly. I have changed the Ignition Amp but to no avail. The dizzy it has in it is a power spark one which has the slot for the oil pump in it but the engine i have doesn't have the same oil pump drive would this matter? It also has an lpg system on it and i am wondering if there is an issue with that. Would the ECU have anything to do with it? Would it be worth swapping for another? Or is there a way of bypassing it all just to get it running?
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Hi All I have a 3.9 V8 Disco 3 door bought as a non runner but i'm struggling to get it going. At first it wouldn't do anything then i bought a bypass for the immobiliser and it now turns over but i am unable to get a spark. I have changed the coil, put a live straight from the battery to the coil +ive and a spark plug in the main lead from the coil but no spark at all. Does any one have a wiring diagram i could look at or would you be able to tell me any other bits to change? it does have an lpg kit on the vehicle too. The engine isn't staying in the disco it is going in another project so all i need is to get it fired up and see how it runs. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance!
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Evening all. I have a 1985 rrc with a 3.5 rover v8 with twin su carbs. I have only just recently got the car up and running and it has never been quite right. It starts and ticks over fine. It will rev fine when stationery. Once I take it out it will be fine in 1st and 2nd when pulling away but then when changing into 3rd to gain a constant speed or if I start to go up a hill it just dies and the power disappears! To make it to the top I have to gear down and rev the engine more just to move forward. Would it be the timing that isn't correct? Any help would be much appreciated. I have read around trying to find the cause and haven't had much joy! Thanks in advance.
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Evening all a bit of an update for you and hopefully a bit more help for me. Checked the breathers they are clear. Opened the oil filler and ran it with that open but no real change there either. I did notice I had coolant resting on the valley gasket so I have stripped the inlet manifold off to see what's leaking. Any tips for the best way to put that back on. May that be where the air leak could be? I also checked the pistons too and they were down when it opened the throttle they moved up slightly. It's really strange it just won't rev or idle!
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Excellent I will have a look at that this weekend. I think the pistons are permanently down but that could be wrong. How do I check for an air leak? Spray easy start and see if the Rickover raises? The oil filler to the engine or on the top of the carbs? Thanks for the help guys.
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I'm pretty sure they are Hif44 but I'm not too sure how do I tell?
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I'm back! I've eventually got the engine started 3.5 V8 on twin Su carbs and it's ticking over fine on the choke but as soon as I turn the choke off it splutters and stalls. I have tried adjusting the mixture but to no avail. Even if I try to give the engine a bit of throttle it still fails. Any ideas? Cheers
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It's is good once it works! Just annoying when it doesn't. Ah that's a good idea. The one I bought works off a tyre. It's got a tyre valve connector on to send the pressure through it. Quite a good idea actually. Now I have a nice solid pedal I'm leaving it we'll alone. Just to get it running properly now and then the last things to sort are the dreaded electrics! I can't find an auto electrician to come and sort it so looks like I'm going to have to learn how to use a multimeter. Thanks for all the help guys. Boydie I lobe that!! Sir Percy Verance. Think I will have that printed on the bottom of my reg plate.
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Evening Gents it's sorted! Davo yes that is the one I have. Unfortunately the plastic part has snapped went to get a new one at my local place and they wanted £50 so I've capped it off for the time being as it's only a warning valve. The problem was the plv it had a blockage and wasn't sending any fluid through the rear port. I changed that and invested in a Gunson easibleed and hey presto it's sorted it. Nice solid pedal now. Thanks for all your help chaps.
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Just to keep you posted it's now back off the car and in bits. I have bought a service kit with new seals and washers to change all those then try again. I have read in my haynes tonight that the pressure switch in the master cylinder needs unscrewing when bleeding too that's something I didn't do so could that have also caused me these bleed problems?
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No I had stripped it to check everything looked ok. I will change the seals as they are probably worn. It's as though it pushes a bit of fluid through then sucks it back up again. Haha. I will change the seals and see how that goes. Thanks once again guys.
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Thanks for the advice chaps. I had another go yesterday and still got nothing even with the new plv. I took the lines off the master cylinder and pressed the pedal and it's hardly pumping anything through there. Do I need to prime the master cylinder first? Shall I just have a go with a brake bleed kit? Or do I need to rebuild the master cylinder with a new seal kit? Cheers will
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Thanks for the advice chaps. I had another go yesterday and still got nothing even with the new plv. I took the lines off the master cylinder and pressed the pedal and it's hardly pumping anything through there. Do I need to prime the master cylinder first? Shall I just have a go with a brake bleed kit? Or do I need to rebuild the master cylinder with a new seal kit? Cheers will
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Boydie you may have just hit the nail on the head with the limiting valve! I wasn't sure what that was. I did take the line that goes to the t piece off when my mate was pressing the peddle and I was only getting a dribble through then! I will take that off at the weekend and see if I can source a new one. Thanks for that. Bowie think I will invest in one of those. Saves me having to cook my mate lunch every time and keep him filled with tea!! Thanks chaps I will keep you posted.
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Excellent thanks for that. I will try that this weekend. I have had a friend pumping the pedal while I unlock and lock the bleed nipple but it still only dribbles through. How long should it usually take for the fluid to run smoothly? Cheers Will
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Evening all I have a 1984/85 range rover classic 4door non abs. Ive renewed the majority of brake pipes and stripped the calipers to renew dust seals and clean everything up. I've rebuilt everything back onto the car and I'm into trying to bleed the system now. I have filled the master cylinder left all the bleed nipples open to see if gravity took its course which it did to the front calipers but not the back. I took the pipes back off again and followed the fluid to see where I was getting it to and I managed to get it rights to the rear off side caliper but only just dribbling out the pipe. I have stripped the master cylinder and everything seemed fine. It's as though the master cylinder isn't pushing enough fluid out through the system. Does any one have any ideas what could be wrong or what else I could try? I don't want to go out and buy a new master cylinder if it isn't that. Thanks in advance.
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I'm just on with this on mine at the minute. I only have 2 pipes coming from the carbs for the fuel in. Does anyone know where I could get the restrictors/ parts that fit on to the carb from? Would I be able to just make them up with a metal t section and some fuel hose? Cheers Will
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Haha bloody hell I was only admiring this last Wednesday night in the winking prawn at north sands. Looks tip top.
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Good Morning I have recently had the engine out to clean it up and rebuild it. Its a 3.5 V8 in a range rover classic. I have put the engine back in the car and I'm sure I have connected everything back up as I took it apart. However when I turn the ignition on I don't seem to have any power to the dash or anywhere. Is it correct that the positive lead runs from the battery connected to the inner wing then straight to the starter motor. I have connected an earth from starter to chassis and the main cable from alternator also to the starter. There is a small silver box attached to the inner wing which has a couple of cables to plug into somewhere but I'm not sure where. I will post some pictures up if i can figure how to do it. Is there anything i could have missed? I have checked cleaned and re-secured all the earths. An y help would be great. Many Thanks
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Thanks Chaps managed to get some grub screws and blank it all off. Thanks again
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Hi all I am just in the rebuild stages on my 1984 3.5 v8 range rover classic which I think is a sd1 engine. I seem to have these strange pipes that run down the sides of each cylinder head and screw into the top of the exhaust manifold ports. I think they are something to do with emissions possibly for the American market? However the pipes on my engine are completely shot and I can't seem to find any anywhere. Does anyone know where to get them from? what they are? And can I cap them off at all if I can't get hold of the tubes? Surely someone else has had this dilemma before?! Thanks in advance.
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Help on procedure for starting a v8 first time in 7 years
v8classic replied to v8classic's topic in Range Rover Forum
Hi all hope you are well. It's been a while since I last posted and unfortunately the rangy is still not started or finished! I have been rather busy over the last year or so as I have bought a house and the rangy went on the back burner for a while. Anyways I have been doing the odd day here and there of welding and it's getting there slowly but surely! I have decided to leave the engine and finish the back off first before I take something else to pieces. I have removed the rear axle stripped it and rebuilt it and that's ready to go back on. I'm needing help with what to do with the wiring. As I have Said previously it's been standing for around 10 years now and I'm not sure which lights are working if any! What would be the best way for me to test if everything is working ok? I'm going to try and upload some photos so you can all have a nosey. Cheers in advance! -
Help on procedure for starting a v8 first time in 7 years
v8classic replied to v8classic's topic in Range Rover Forum
Well im back and still not started unfortunately. I havent had much time with the old girl recently as i have just bought a house. I had a good weekend on it a couple of weeks back and did everything that cynic-al said. It is now coughing and spluttering again but still not firing. I have taken a video of it and up loaded it to youtube. was wondering if u could have a look at this link and watch the video see if there is anything else u could point out. In the video i am turning the engine over while turning the distributor slightly. Also when i turn the ignition on the fuel pump pumps the fuel through but never seems to stop. i dont know whether it is flooding the engine? Thanks in advance any help is greatful!! -
Help on procedure for starting a v8 first time in 7 years
v8classic replied to v8classic's topic in Range Rover Forum
Nope still not started. Yes i set the engine to top dead centre and had a look where the rotor arm was pointing and it certainly wasnt at plug 1 so i took it back out and re-aligned it. put it all back together and tried again and i had it coughing and spluttering but still not quite firing. How do i know when the inlet valve has opened and closed? I have got a full day on saturday working on it again so i think im going to have a play around with the timing. When the engine is at top dead centre should the rotor arm line up directly with plug one or should it be just before/after? As u have probably read i am a novice at this and trying to teach myself with the haynes manual and this website. Thanks for all your help. Also while i have ur attention how do i tell if my engine is an sd1? i have twin su's on it so im guessing it is. Cheers Will -
Help on procedure for starting a v8 first time in 7 years
v8classic replied to v8classic's topic in Range Rover Forum
Ye I have took the fuel lines off and the fuel is pumping through at the carbs. I'm gonna try pouring some fuel down the inlet of the carb today. I've got another full day of playing ahead of me. When I took the distributor off to prime the oil I was going to change the condenser but my distributor doesn't seem to have 1 in. Is that usual? Thanks for the reply.
