SvBeek

Thanks Western!

Don't really like that since the heater and washer bottle are in the way. Would have the hose go all the way forward on the wing. And have all the bits lying around to make the side entry, just need to cut the hole.

I want to install a 200tdi snorkel (left side of the car) on my RHD 110. Originally it was a 2.25 petrol, it doesnt have the side air intake on the wing. So i have to cut out the hole. Can someone take some measurements for me how far it should be from the bulkhead and top of the panel? Thanks a lot!

Have had similar problems. A few tips: - if you have rubber brake hoses (not the ones with a metal mantle) clamp them one by one and see if the pedal is hard. When it does, you know which caliper(s) cause the problem. - press the pedal down and put a stick between it and the roof, to keep it clamped down. leave it overnight so all air bubbles have the time to find their way out - my 110 has drum brakes on the back, and if the shoes are not adjusted really close to the drums, the pedal doesnt always feel hard and its raises the suggestion that there is still air in the system while there is not. So i would check all your calipers again to see if there is nothing wrong with them. Are the pads close to the discs and not retracting too far? Are the correct pads fitted?

Thanks steve!

Battery is good, got a dual setup and tried linking them. No succes. Checked the wire as well. Ill try to give it a tick with a hammer.

Me and my family are camping near machynlleth and the starter of my 200tdi defender stopped working. Relay clicks, there is voltage but no crank. Local garage can fix it but not until tuesday. Does any one knows a place near that could do it faster or has a starter in stock?

Yes, a2 stainless sells them: http://www.a2stainless.co.uk/Chassis-Body-off-Bolt-Kits_B23393.aspx I ordered a few boxes of m6 and m8 bolts and nuts in addition to this kit, they are used a lot in defenders.

I've seen an experienced guy do it in a week having the proper tools and parts available. Easiest way is to lift the whole body up using a crane or forklift. Saves you loosening lots of bolts and not having to align everything afterwards. But if you havn't done it before or forget to order a part.. forget it. The main issue that you will probably find other stuff that needs doing as well if you break the car that far down. Rust on bulkhead/sill rails, corroded brake lines, dodgy fuel pipe etc.

Thanks guys!

If you buy it and want to swap the engine for a 200tdi, let me know. I need a decent petrol engine for my '85 110 because of changes in the dutch road tax legislation, next year it will be unaffordable to keep driving my 200tdi around.

I have a matt black RHD 1985 90 with 200tdi engine that I'm planning to sell in the UK. Only not too sure what would be the right asking price. Approx 5000 quid? What do you guys think? Car has been rebuilt a few years ago for an overland trip to Marocco, lots of new parts, stainless bolts all round, etc. The 200tdi conversion was done by Dunsfold and is a proper one. Its an original defender engine with the high turbo (approx 100k), it has the rare fan cowling and correct air filter housing. Here are the specs (and probably forgot some things) - loads of options: - Very good original chassis, powder coated. - Doors and bulkhead all rock solid, no rust. - TerraFirma suspension with Big Bore shocks, 5" lift, dislocation cones - 6 general grabber AT2 tyres 235/85 - mantec spare wheel carrier on rear door, other spare on the bonnet - mantec snorkel + wading kit - rock sliders, steering guard, fuel tank guard - chequer plate on wings, bonnet, rear end - auxilery 50L fuel tank - stainless exhaust with side exit - extra fan in the roof to keep the car cool - 230v inverter - hidden safe for passport/cash - Lasalle door trim - cooker on the rear door - rubber mats in the front - 2 odyssy batteries with Gensyz split charger - mud console with switches for auxileries, extra 12v sockets, VDO gauges (oil temp, pressure, turbo pressure) - cat2 immobilizer - wolf front bumper, nato hitch - alpine speakers in the front, JBL speakers in the rear - fire extinguisher, life hammer - will include a dog guard, but currently not fitted. Also have 2 forward facing rear seats that I could include, but are also not fitted. - currently not taxed since its located in the Netherlands (but has a Dutch MOT) Only issue is the syncro of the 2nd gear is a bit worn. For the last MOT the brake system was overhauled (rebuilt calipers, new pads, cylinders, bake shoes and drums) and the drop arm ball joint were replaced.

Where are you located? In SA?

Wouldn't it be much easier to fit a 2.5 petrol head on the 200tdi block? They are supposed to be alike? Anyway, it would have a lot less power then the tdi setup because it doesn't have a turbo. And I really like the power of the tdi, this way I can drive the car in everyday traffic without problems.

To get back on topic.. What about a 2.8/3.0/3.2/3.5 BMW petrol engine with 4hp22 autobox and LT230? Anyone seen that before in a defender? BMW used the 4hp22 for quite a few cars, and its also used in range rovers and disco's. So the bolt pattern should be fine, but what about the LT230 ratio? And in a def the gear stick would probably not be in the right place.

Very good condition, 70k miles done, just had new cambelt, head gasket etc. Original defender with the high turbo. But.. I'm not doing the conversion anytime soon.. Have my house for sale

The 2.8 option seems appealing, but doubt I'm going to find one near. 3.5 is probably the easiest to get hold of

Yes, about double the tax. For a 110 its approx 2300 euros a year. I can burn a lot of petrol for that kind of money!

Yes I have, but the I've spent approx 2 years and loads of money totally rebuilding the truck. I'll never get my money back, and the one I would buy back probably would be in a lesser condition. So I'd rather take up the extra work converting this one to a v8

Because of some big changes in the Dutch road tax legislation, I'm looking into options to convert my '85 110 with 200tdi to a petrol engine. I know the most easy conversion is to fit a 2.25 or 2.5 land rover engine on the existing mounts, but in my opinion these engines lack the power to drive a 110 in modern traffic. (The car was a 2,25 originally) So, the next thing I'm looking at is a v8. Currently on my mind is a 3.5 or 3.9. These engines seem readily available, reliable and affordable. MPG is not so much of an issue, since the car is mostly used during holidays, not a daily driver. What I'm looking for is some advice on how to fit such an engine to my 110. Is that possible using the existing lt77/t230 combo and prop shafts? Also I would prefer to bolt on new engine mounts instead of welding because I have a galvanised chassis and not a lot of welding experience.. What are the things I need to change? My guess so far: - engine mounts (front only or both?) - bellhouse/flywheel/clutch? - fuel pipes (does a v8 have a fuel pump in the tank?) - radiator - temperature gauge - wiring (or is this plug and play?) - exhaust - power steering (?) Any help / advice is appreciated

Had this problem with my 200 tdi. First try to start the engine as mentioned above, could very well work. If not, there are companies that specialize in removing them, it seems to happen a lot on modern common rail diesels. They sent me a quote of +/-100 pounds back then. Eventually decided to take the head of and replace the head gasket in the process, which turned out be a good decision. When the head is of you simply tap it ouf from the inside.

If it doesn't work using air, I used this method last week: split the caliber parts (makes fitting new seals a lot easier anyway). Carefully drill a hole in the stuck piston. Tap a thread into the hole. Put a bolt in, and pull out the piston using the bolt as an anchor

Nevermind...

And dont forget to switch back to normal tyres when the temperature starts to rise again. Because of the soft rubber winter tyres wear very quickly if you drive them in summer conditions.

Checked the bore, no visible difference. In the parts manual it says there is a regulator in the rear brake pipe section on some models to make sure the front brakes are applied first. So maybe they are just spacers to deal with shorter brake pipes.