Jon White
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Posts posted by Jon White
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Why not just fit a 300tdi bellhousing and torque converter to the autobox you have and you then just need the 300 flex plate and adaptors. It then uses all standard off the shelf parts and you know it'll all fit!
Jon
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Jon a blooming V8 doesn't tend to last the day at the latest events (See BBC Ian for info)
A V8 is s far off the bottom of my List I can't actually see it.
Oooooooooh me floats just gone under.......
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One thing I notice is that no-one has mentioned is how much does a bluddy simex tyre weigh???? Put some smaller tyres on it!
Put the driver on a diet too!!!
It all depends really on what you want to use the truck for and how silly you want to go! For example if you only ever use low box for challenges then take the high ratio gears out of the transfer box. (My mate has taken the low range ones out of his safari racer for this very reason).
IMHO the majority of the weight is in the chassis/driveline. Anyone picked up an axle lately?? What could be done to lighten axles, suspension arms etc. Plus as Nige says - single heaviest part of it is that oil burner under the bonnet! The bare block probably weighs about the same as a fully dressed V8!
How about some holes in the chassis?? Let the water and mud out too..........
Jon
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Dunno - wouldnt have thought so.
Jon
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Thanks Nige! I'll let you know.
Les, no - very little backlash in it. 24 spline shafts front and rear and recently rebuilt diffs on ARB centres. Props are fine, u/j's are fine. As I say - its been fine for years, its just suddenly started doing it!
Jon
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Thanks
I may take you up on the offer
have you had time to get your ECU and relay in and working.
No probs - just give me a shout if need be.
Not yet - I had a dead multifunction unit also so I decided to leave it until I have that. (missus just said postman delivered it this morning) so with a bit of luck i'll have it sorted tonight!
Cheers
Jon
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I have the old ARB one from the 90 so for ease I will get the twin lockers up and running with that.
I would like to use the cars existing compressor as it seams a waste but I don't know were to start and my wiring reputation leaves some what to be desired.
Ah fair enough - easier then as you can just use the ARB loom unmodified then.
So you want to use the rangie air comp it just to run an airtool or tyre inflator or summat?
If so re-wiring it to run less air ecu is an easy 5 minute job.
You need to do a bit of re-wiring under the drivers seat. Get hold of the wiring loom where it comes out of the air ecu and find the grey/yellow wire and the grey/blue wire. Cut them and join them (on the wide that goes into the rest of the car not the side that goes to the ecu plug.
Then find the compressor relay. If you look under the right hand seat rail you should find 3x relays. The white time delay one (that you know about), then the next one moving towards the front of the vehicle should be a yellow one (yellow holder aswell) and the front one should be a green one. You need the middle (yellow one). Look at the wires going into it - there should be a fat brown wire and a fat purple and orange wire plus two thin wires going into it. If you're careful you can unclip the two plastic bits from the of it and it'll allow you to pull the wires out. You need to move the brown wire from its current position in the holder to the spare position on the holder (the middle one IIRC). Put the holder back together. Replace the yellow 4 pin relay with a green 5 pin one.
Hey presto you'll now find that when you switch the ignition on the compressor will run until the pressure switch cuts it out. It'll then run as the pressure drops (ign on) and will maintain the tank pressurised. Just find a suitable location for screwing in an airline fitting and job is done.
If you dont feel happy doing that then give me a shout and I'll gladly do it for you. Its what i had to do on mine to get the pump to run when the ECU refused to make the pump run!
Cheers
Jon
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If you look on the front of the transfer box. There is a small cap that fits over the end of the box that protects the ends of selector the shafts, they sometimes fill up with carp and rust. take it off and have a look. It looks as though its not coming out of 4wd prpoerly. Is the spring present under the yellow knob?
pat
See above - already been there and removed it! They arent siezed. Yes the spring is present.
I'll have it all apart (again!) and see whats what inside!
Jon
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Do you have mismatched tyre diameters front to rear? Or maybe a 4.7:1 diff in one end and a Higher ratio ( 4.3, 3.9 or even a 3.54 :1 diff in the other end? The Rover car 4.3 and 3.9 diffs can usually be identified by having a round pinion flange as opposed to the rectangular shaped flange of LandRover diffs
Bill.
Nope - same tyres front and rear and same diffs front and rear (trust me i've changed em often enough lately!)
Jon
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Jules,
Why bother going to the expense of an ARB compressor when theres already one bolted under the sill??
If you want the ARB one it depends which model you've got - if its the old model I'd stick it inside somewhere. If its the new one with the snorkle it should be fine under the bonnet as they're supposedly submersible.
I'd look for space in the boot behind the trim panels on either side.
Jon
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There are a number of differences. For example the windscreen mounts bolt onto the defender bulkhead, whereas they're welded to the series one.
However the two biggest differences you find are that the footwells are a completely different shape to those on a series and you'll have a bit of fun trying to fit series pedal boxes etc to it. I would use the 90 pedals, master cylinders etc, (giving you the advantage of a bigger servo and dual circuit brakes). The series steering should bolt up onto it - cant see it would get in the way of the brake master, as its the same diameter as the 90 one is anyway.
Other one that'll casue you a load of agro is the trans tunnel/floor panels, as its all totally different on a 90 so you'll have to make/modify trans tunnel, floor panels etc.
Jon
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John,
I (think!) I've got a folder full of assorted old letraset at home if its of use. I'll have a looksee if it'd help.
Chers
Jon
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Ever come accross this before??
I've got a problem in that my series keeps sticking in 4wd. I've had the tin cover plate off the front to check that the selectors aren't sticking (which they arent), and when its parked on the flat it goes in and out of 4wd correctly. However if I jack a wheel up and put a little tension on the driveline via my foot turning the wheel, it stays in 4wd until the tension is released on the wheel at which point the trasnfer box pops back into 2wd.
However the problem this casues is that when you go laning for example, you emerge at the end of the lane, shove the lever forward to go back into high range, and spend the next ten minutes bouncing up and down the verge etc trying to get the transfer box to pop back into 2wd!
I've not had it apart yet but anyone ever had this before or get any bright ideas? Its definately not sticky selector rods (the usual casue) so the only other thing I can think of is a broken spring inside on the selectors.....
Sounds about right?
Cheers
Jon
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Sounds like its summat to do with the blend motors yes. However do be aware that they need "calibrating" with testbook. It may be that they dont need replacing they simply need re-calibration. As far as I know there is no way to do this other than with the relevant diagnostic kit.
Jon
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Dont like the wedges cos the U bolts were forever coming loose and there is nothing to locate the axle tube. I've got an old pair kicking round somewhere.
I took the axle off and modified the srping seats to correc the caster that way.
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Sunday 3rd June IIRC
Jon
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Which exhaust manifold are you using - the 2.5 or the 2.25 one?
Jon
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Yep - 15v is too high - its knackered!
Jon
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The delay relay is more than a simple relay,are you using something else ? Failed delay relays are the normal reason for not being able to get comms with the ECU.If the car settles to one side then its probably because the ECU was calibrated to another car.Dont you just hate it when some pratt has been in there and left it in a right old state for the next bloke to sort out.
Thanks! Yep tell me about it! I've borrowed a delay relay and it still wouldnt communicate! Think the best bet will prolly be to try and source another ecu and go from there!
Cheers
Jon
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Thanks - so far as I can tell the ecu has stopped the output to the compressor, and the re-wire has made the pump run. When I put it back to this mode the suspension works, and levels and goes up and down etc. However the dash warning lamp never goes out unless I take the green relay out. My guess is that the output from the ECU to this is also dead.
Otherwise it all seems to work, (or would do if I had the correct delay relay), but the issue is that it isnt quite level! NSF is about 25mm higher. Should be easy enough to re-set, but the diagnostics just wont talk to it!
My best guess at the moment is the ECU is dead.
Cheers
Jon
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Anyone got any bright ideas why the diagnostics wont work on my softdash classic??
Got my mate to borrow the autologic unit from where he works, but when we plug it in the unit keeps coming up saying unable to communicate with ECU.
I've checked all the fuses, checked all the pinouts to the ECU plug, have power to pin 1 etc. Checked the diagnostic plug, checked the ecu is plugged in etc etc etc.
Only things I can find is some prat of a previous owner has all the wrong relays in it and has buggered the wiring around! The compressor was wired directly through the pressure switch and not connected to the ECU at all! There was no warning lamp ecu in it, and there is the wrong delay relay in it! I've borrowed delay relays, and other ecu's but cannot get any of them to talk to it, but I cant borrow the correct ecu so am a bit flummoxed! I think I've put all the wiring back to where it should be!
Does this sound like a dead ECU??
Thanks
Jon
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Anglo european in farnham do it, but when i last enquired I think it was pretty pricey - £40 or £50 or thereabouts.....
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Surprisingly little......
A jack for my rangie
A mankey black "slightly used never raced or rallied" rear corner panel that had been lovingly carefully removed from Graham's old black rangie.......
A pair of late front halfshafts
A 30mm impact socket for £1
An X-zag (cheers Si, but where was Paul this year?? We couldn't eat all his sausages!)
And that was about it! Struggled to find decent things to buy to be honest!
Oh and helped Nige' shift his new welder - matey opened the back of the van up and 3 of us looked at it and went "fawking 'ell" - its HUGE!!!!!!!!! Went and found two of my largest mates, and we just (and I mean just) offloaded it. The thing has a lifting eye for a reason!!!!!!!!
Went to burger king on the way home avoiding the orrible burgers! The only trouble was 2 hours after getting home I had to drive the 100 mile round trip back to burger king in newbury to pick up my bluddy mobile which I'd succeeded in leaving behind (actually dead impressed that I actually got it back!)
Oh - and did anyone else get offered a plasma TV by the irish pikeys in the car park on the way out???
Jon
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Dont bother with one - I never did - its not really necessary - all it does is show you a warning light if one side of the system fails, but that assumes that the shuttle valve isnt diezed solid, or the electrical connections so corroded the whole thing doesnt work anyway.
I never bothered with one when i upgraded my series to dual circuit brakes and I had no problems - just plumb the master cylinder outputs straight to the front/rear brake circuits.
Now I'm on disks all round I still dont bother with one!
2nd hand ones you'll often find that the slider valve in the middle is siezed solid, and they're fearsomely expensive new if you can even get hold of one!
Jon
Auto box woes
in International Forum
Posted
I'd suggest flog what you've got on, and look for a 300tdi autobox complete. Its then a nuts and bolts job, plus the shift points in the box will be correct for the lower revving diesel!
Jon