Jon White
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Posts posted by Jon White
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Well that was a weird one! Finally got to the bottom of it after I pulled the front diff and counted the teeth! I've somehow managed to pick up a 4.3:1 ring and pinion! God knows what its off and it looks the same as a 4.7 and bolts up the same! My guess is off of a Rover car of some description.
You dont want to know how many times I've had the transfer box apart trying to find something wrong with it......sigh!
Jon
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Going rate IMHO is about £250 if its complete and in good order. i sold one a while back but I cant remember for how much - it was in the region of £250 - 300 ish i think!
That one looks like it wants a new wire rope (would you want to trust that orrible looking hook?) and the mounting brackets look a bit hacked about and have also had extra bits weleded on to them!
Jon
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My other option is to find a belly PTO, but I have seen one once and I am still kicking myself for not buying it!
You've seen one???? Thats more than most people have ever done!!!
I've NEVER seen one period, let alone seen one for sale!!!
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Hahahahahahahahahaha Si tried one of these calipers when he was developing the X brake. IIRC it broke the very first time he tried it and it damn nearly ran him over!!!!!!
They're find for kit cars etc but they're no where near strong enough for a disco!!! Matey will learn the hard way.......
I have my own design disk handbrake on my series, which works very well, but my reason for this was that at the time i made mine, Si wasnt offering an X brake to fit a series transfer box.
Jon
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Its not something as daft as the two different engines run with different temperature themostats is it???
First question is does it lose any coolant?
Second question, disregarding the gauge, does it actually overheat?
What temperature do the thermostats open at?? I had this on my series years ago having replaced an engine that turned out to have a 74 degree thermostat in it, with one with an 82 degree stat in it. I spent ages trying to work out why it was overheating, before finally twigging that the thermostats opening at different temps would of course give me different readings on the temp gauage!
Jon
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It looks like a lovely job, and a nice bit of kit - I quite fancy one for my IIA. Problem is with the overdrive stuffed into the PTO hole... Did they do a conversion to drive one of these off the engine crank directly??
Ta
Mark
No - you have the choice - overdrive or pto winch. You cant have both! The only crank driven winches I've ever seen are the capstan ones.
Cheers
Jon
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I always found 2nd gear to be about right for winching. Can can tell how hard they're working to an extent cos the U/j's tend to start to rattle!
I think you've foud the reason why people tend to replace the shaer pin with an HT bolt!
Cheers
Jon
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sorrry yes, 3 bolt jobby
They're all three bolt - its the offset thats different. What does the pump body look like - is it a cast one, or does it look a bit like a baked bean tin???
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I've got allmakes ones and have been very pleased with them.
The origional TI ones were the best, but I'm not sure what the current (Heystee) ones are like.
I've heard of people having problems with Bearmach, CP, British springs, rocky mountain and TI ones, so I think its a case of you pays your many and takes your choice!
Jon
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Do you often drive looking backwards also?
Yes thats the bracket i need.
Possibly problem solved as V8RRC has offered me one.
Just need a double V PAS pulley now..... anyone?
There are different ones of them too! Which PAS pump are you running?
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I've found in the past it can also help to raise the front of the vehicle when bleeding.
An ezibleed makes things alot easier too!
Sure you've got the springs on the shoes in the correct places?
Jon
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Yes you need the speed transducer otherwise it wont idle properly.
IRC you need connections to:-
+ve permanent
Switched ign +ve
Fuel pump
starter solenoid
You also need to connect via the ickle resistor to the negative side of the coil so it knows the engie is running.
I think thats it!
Cheers
Jon
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Because the rangie trackrod wants to go where the leaf springs are! There are ways around it but its not as simple as many people think! You cant just rotate the axle as it screws the castor angle up etc etc etc.
There are some people have done it, but you're always compromising something IMHO.
Jon
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For reasons of safety and liability i dont think that this is a good idea. Steering is a safety critical item, and as such i do not want to be held responsable if someone else trys this and has a failure etc.
Bomag is welcome to come and have a look and make his own mind up on this basis.
There was a feature in LRO a few years back that Chris Perfect wrote which more or less covers this conversion - I'd suggest this would be the better article to share on here. I have the article scanned and would be happy to email it to you if you PM me an email address.
Cheers
Jon
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Its generally accepted that you cant fit more than 2 of the dowell studs anyway, unless the holes in the steering arm are badly worn, or poorly drilled in the first place.
One thing I've never quite understood is how these studs can come loose, but they do somehow manage it! Interestingly I've always found thats the problem only ever occurs on the passenger side hub.
Jon
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Jon, is this what youve done? Any chance of me coming over with tape measure and camera? Please?
Yes - this is what I've done.
You're welcome to come and take piccys measurements etc if you wish - pm me to arrange it!
Cheers
Jon
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Get rid of the ammeter. Ammeters were only ever designed to be run with a Dynamo. With an alternator you should be using a voltmeter.
What are you trying to gain with the split charge? If its only to run two batteries to give you a greater capacity thn all i do is simply wire them up in parrallel and forget about the split charge.
Cheers
Jon
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Correct - the winch comes within a purpose designed cradle that was made specifically to fit the series chassis. Infact the cradle is almost an integral part of the winch.
These are beautifully engineered bits of kit, that were made to a quality and not to a price. You'll find no plastic anywhere on these, and everything is on proper bearings no bronze bushes etc.
They're also immensely powerful, and will carry on working for as long as your engine is running! No flat batteries etc to worry about!
Jon
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Here Nige, you forgot to chrome the rear axle casing before you fitted it!!
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Bill,
I've not yet bent series 3 arms, but a mate of mine used to bend series 1 ones for a hobby!
However i have had trouble with the studs coming loose, and have seen one sheared off. The problem seems to be casued by the studs coming loose in the swivel housings. Since i stripped mine and threadlocked the studs in to the housings and re-built I've had no further problems.
A couple of my other mates with power steering on series axles have had similar problems that have not re-occured after the studs were locked into the swivel housings.
Jon
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The mounting bolts are not in the bottom of this winch - take a look at the pics.
This winch is correctly mounted and the cable is correctly spooled.
Jon
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No - its the right length. Use defender column and lower shaft. You'll find that the defender column brakcets more or less line up with existing holes in the series bulkhead. You need to hack the inner wing thouhg!
Jon
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The cable is spooled on the correct way. These winches are designed that way!
Just one question - is your centre bearing mounted to the sump bolts? If so then you've got the sliding joint in the wrong place. Its designed to take acount of the engine/box moving backwards and forwards on the rubber mounts. If the centre bearing is chassis mounted then its fine where it is, but if its mounted to the engine then it needs moving to the front rod between the winch and the centre bearing.
When i had one of these on mine I never broke a shear pin funnily enough. Most people tend to fit the prescision calibrated HT bolt however!
Jon
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I'd agree with paul - if the compressor doesnt keep cutting in when the diff is locked then dont worry too much. When they leak alot you also tend to get oil blown out of the breather pipes.
If it was the rear I'd be inclined to pull it anyway, but the front is more of a pain to get out (plus I dont use my front locker that much) so I'd be inclined to leave it until it gets worse, or you're pulling the diffs for another reason.
Jon
Transfer box winding up?
in Series Forum
Posted
Yeah I know...........that'll teach me to count the teeth to check next time I change a diff! The odd thing was it had a series type prop flange on it just like a normal series one!
Mate of mine came up with a good way of checking it though which I'll share:-
Put it in 4wd and jack up both wheels on one side of the vehicle.
Mark the tyres at the bottom with a bit of chalk, and spin one over 10 complete revolutions returning the chalk mark to the bottom. Then check and see where the chalk mark is on the other tyre. If its not also in line theres your problem!
Jon