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Posts posted by Jon White
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The crank boss shim(s) are something completely different and there is a seperate measurement between the flywheel and bellhousing face on the block for them (the shims for this are thin and would need a lot to take up 2mm
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I guess it's what each person is happy with in their circumstance, but as with all things, once you veer from how it should be, you are exposing yourself to potential trouble.
Er - no - on a 300 auto the shims are in the region of 2mm ish thick.
As others have said this points to a misalignment issue, but its odd, as they normally go round the middle. Were the bolts overtorqued and have casued a failure that way?
Jon
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Ah yes but the red will fade to pink in the sunlight, so after a bit of use the rope will also go a bit fluffy.............so before you know it it'll be PINK AND FLUFFY!!!!!!!!!!
:-)
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Defender front end? Wash your mouth out Mr White!
You can fit a decent sized rad in without changing the front panel, just chop all the cowling off the back of it and fit the biggest you can find - mine's sherpa-sized although there's not much Sherpa to it.
Ah yes Mr Utteridge, but you dont have a steering relay unit in the way anymore!
I prefer the defender front anyway.........
My V8's coming out soon anyway in favour of an oil burner....
Jon
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Having been there I'd suggest what you do is refit the defender front end and bigger rad. A series radiator is only just up to cooling the V8 on the road, and on a hot day, or with hard off road use it will overheat! For this reason I eventually gave up with the series rad and fitted a 90 front end and full width rad!
Just fill and bleed in the normal way will be fine. However you need a different fan as Fridge says unless we've all got the wrong end of the stick!
Jon
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have u got a manual?
sounds like just a seal to me
So is that the polite, non Mr Grumpy way of saying RTFM then??
But seriously - sounds like crankshaft oil seal. Haynes manual or similar will tell you how to do it.
Jon
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Les,
Have you got any warning lights showing? If you have then this is normal as it requires a reset via testbook.
The air is released to atmosphere via a valve in the valve block. Only other possiblity is a sticky valve or valaves in the valve block.
Cheers
Jon
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Hi Lewis,
Many thanks in your continued interest in Plasma Winch line.
I treat all enquiries with the utmost importance and am happy to supply you 96mm Plasma @ £100 per ft.
As this is a slightly unusual size for this particular application you will appreciate I must treat it as a special order and take full payment in advance.
It is not my normal practice to publicise prices on a forum, however you did use this vehicle to ask for your quote.
I await you cheque for £10,000 + VAT & delivery at cost prior to importing your order from the USA.
FYI,
I have just been told by Puget within the last few minutes that very shortly they will be in a position to produce a 192mm Plasma, perhaps you would prefer to wait for that!
Kindest regards,
Andy Thomlinson.
Managing Director,
Ruftraks UK Limited.
Glasgow, Scotland.
ROTFLMAO!!!!!!!
Now theres a man with a sense of humour!!! Superb..........
Jon
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and refuse to play again until it's had counselling from a testbook.
Unless its mine which even with a new ECU still flatly refuses to talk to testbook!
It works fine apart from the fact that it doesnt sit level so I'm just ignoring it at the moment!
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They're not as nice as the genuine ford connectors however IMHO. They dont fit onto the coil packs as well.
I simply used scrap yard leads and eased the crimps open with a small screwdriver and then re-crimped them onto a set of V8 leads.
Jon
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Les,
Be aware that the system operating correctly, with the vehicle parked will self level every 6 hours to the height of the lowest point by letting air out only (it does not inflate at all). My rangie pretty much ends up on the bumpstops after about 2 days because of this.
Try letting the vehicle level, then hit the disable switch under the drivers seat before switching the engine off. Then leave it overnight and see which corner(s) have gone down.
Soapy water is the best bet for leaks, but dear i mind the leak could also be within the valve block (ie one of the air valves is leaking).
Hth
Jon
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Jon W, you're a nutter! Welding beside the petrol tank!
I
Mines diesel!
Besides you're only puddle welding spot welds back in to re-attach the floor to the top of the crossmember so the majority of the spatter is going to be on top of the boot floor anyway.
Jon
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I did mine recently. You dont need to remove the fuel tank - I didnt. A spot weld drill is a worthwhile purchase!
You need both rear wings off, and i found it was easy enough to get to all the spot welds to remove them with the exception of the ones on top of the crossmember under the wheel arch (attacked witha cold chisel in the end).
Getting the rotten old bits out was easy enough, but getting the new one in was a right game! Much jiggling, thumping etc and I ended up jacking the rear body up a bit with a lump of wood under the floor finally saw it all go back in. Also note you have to re-fit the body mount bolts back in the other way up as its impossible to get them in otherwise. Then just re-weld all the old spots and job done. By far the worst bit is getting the new crossmember in.
i didnt brace anything at all and mine all lines up fine now its all back together.
I got my crossmemebr from Keith Gott's and mine had all the holes I required including those for the helper springs.
Cheers
Jon
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I like the invisible stain remover.........
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Well thats the first one of them I've ever seen then! Useful to know what one looks like!
Cheers
Jon
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Compressed air then, and hope you can hear the leaks.
Sure, you are going to introduce moisture, but you are going to do that when you open the system to replace the leaking seals / corroded condenser.
You've left it so long (you don't say how long, but it's some time isn't it?) that the seals will have dried out anyway.
In future, pick a better quality monkey. Sometimes it's wiser to pay for a good service, not the cheapskate one you chose first time around.
Sorry, but no-one here can help you if you won't help yourself :-(
I know, unwelcome news, it always gets the messenger shot.
Cheers
The aircon hasnt worked since I've owned the vehicle (which is only 4 months - I've no idea how long its not been working for).
I didnt chose a cheapskate service first time around, I just went to my local place that I trust. However they only have the kit to regas and not to leak detect.
Jon
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Wot he said!
They're all the same......
Jon
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Basically becasue in typical landrover owner fashion I object to paying some monkey to work on my truck if its a job I can possibly do myself! In short I'm a cheapskate, and if I can find the leak and fix it myself then I'm quids in, plus if its going to be too expensive to fix I simply aint going to bother!
I've already takin it in for re-gassing which is how they told me it'd got a leak in the first place.....
Jon
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Why would you want to???
There is a steel one that has the outlet in the bottom of the tank also so this would be a straight swap for the placcy one.
Its a common mod on vehicles that dont have the bottom outlet pipe to retro fit the later cooling system as it can solve some overheating problems. It improves the coolant flow, plus it helps with self bleeding of the cooling system.
Jon
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I had the bonnet fly open against the screen on the way home from an Mot years ago where the tester hadn't shut the bonnet properly! Scary...........
Jon
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This is why a lot of folks will find ways around the regs....
Correction - that is why alot of people chose to simply ignore the regs........
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I had a long running leak hunt (under warranty) on my other car. What they used to finally find it was adding a dye to the system & running it. If halfrauds do this stuff i imagine it would be cheaper for you to do, as your not paying for some spanner monkey to stand around & watch it for 8 hrs.
Then take it in when you know where it is.
I know it can be difficult sometimes as there are many places that you can't get to easily to inspect i.e bulkhead passthrough, back of evaporator etc
Thats the sort of thing they do - they do stuff in an aerosol can that you hook up to the valve in it and use a UV light to detect it with. My guess is its a cheapo version of what the professionals use.
Jon
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Soapy water.
Chris
I thought of this, but surely i need to somehow pressurise it first? Can i just hook up the airline to it to pressureise??
Thanks
Jon
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Anyone ever tried any of the leak detection products for Aircon that halfrauds sell??
Equally anyone got any rough idea what the going rate is for someone to professionally test and leak detect my aircon system??
I'm loathed to spend much money on it if its just going to turn out to be not worth fixing.
I'm aware that the halfords style re-fill cans arent much good so I'd get it re-gassed professionally once I've fixed the leak. I took it in for a regas the other day and was then told it had a leak when they tried to do it. However the place I went to only had the kit to re-gas it and not to leak detect it.
Any other thoughts anyone?
Cheers
Jon
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Jon ive got a series 3 gearbox at my garage if you want it
just for 20 squid it can be yours
TWIZZLE
Thanks for the offer but its no good to me mate as I'm running an LT77!
Jon
Series Hybrid Project Questions
in Series Forum
Posted
What the hell is a "front clip" anyway???? Why do the americans always have stupid names for bits of cars???