Jon White
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Posts posted by Jon White
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Afraid you're onto a looser with that one boys - its been floating around for months!
They've previously categorically said that it wont change. Partly due to the green lot (doesnt look terribly good to them giving ANYTHING to the motorist) but mainly due to the fact that so many old cars miraculously came out of the woodwork the last time they did!
Jon
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Did you have the engine running, or anything else running??
The idea is that the kill switch also cuts the ignition so the engine stops!
The resistor is only supposed to be there to prevent damage to the alternator when you turn the key off.
Jon
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V8 starters are poo!!!
I put a brand new genuine lucas one on mine. Hadnt started the engine more than a doezen times, hadnt even got wet, let alone muddy, before it went "clicky".
Every V8 starter I've ever had has gone clicky in this way!
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No pics handy no - sorry!
As bogmonster says - this has an electric pump system that runs for a few seconds when you switch the ign on - my guess is charging itself!
Funnily enough I've been told its expensive to fix, so i was planning to squirrel the vaccuum pump away anyway for if i have to swap it to a more normal system!
Cheers
Jon
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Well this one doesnt have!!! Its on a 1995 softdash rangie, and it has an ABS pump and accumulator and a load of other complicated gubbins around where the servo would normally be!
I've just taken the engine out, and the only pipe coming off the vacuum pump appears to go round to where the EGR used to be!
Have to say I'm no expert when it comes to diesely things.......
thanks
Jon
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Simple as that really - does it need to stay there???
My rangie has ABS, so theres no servo for it to power. So far as I can see it was only ever there to power something on the EGR, which I've already removed.
So am I right in thinking that it too can go?? Can some of the extra wiring etc go aswell then?
Cheers
Jon
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Hmmmmmmmm well I tried the procedure Geoff linked me to, but couldnt get the pump to run at all. Checked all the fuses, got the hump with it and went with lumps of 4x2 between the chassis and axles for the time being.
Be interesting to see if it actually works at all once the engines fixed!
Cheers
Jon
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Sigh mutter grumble..........ah well..........
Think i might do all the jobs i need to on it first and then get it recalibrated once its all done, cos otherwise knowing my luck it'll wipe itslef again if I disconnect the battery to do some welding or summat......
Thanks for your help!
Cheers
Jon
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Ah - this one has been parked up for a coupe of months with a flat battery........
Daft idea really...........volatile memory is pointless for something that has to retain settings! At least the procedure you liked me to would do as a get you home type fix if it all goes horribly wrong out in the wilds..........
Is there a cheapo DIY type diagnostic unit on the market that'll work? I know rovacom is available, but IIRC it still costs in the region of £400!
Jon
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Bugger............oh well!
Seems a stupid idea to me - what you're basically saying is that if you left your lights on and flattened the battey you have then to get the suspension re-calibrated!
Daft idea........
Got a couple of mates who will have access to some sort of diagnostics so shouldnt be too hard to get sort out!
Thanks
Jon
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oooooooooooooooohhhh perfect!!!!
Thanks Geoff!!!
So my guess is then that once power has been disconnected for any length of time it looses the height sensor settings so has to be re-calivbrated with testbook - correct?
i'm kind of guesssing then that this will have to be done on mine as the battery is as flat as a very very flat thing......
Cheers
Jon
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Ahhhhhhhhh - yes mine is soft dash.
As its 300Tdi mine shouldnt have an engine ecu should it?
Got any idea what the pin out on the plug is?
Thanks
Jon
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Ok this could be an interesting one........
Need to get me new toy (94 classic rangie) onto a ramp tomorrow to fix it. Only trouble is where its been parked up for a while the air suspension is now sat on the bumpstops, and I can't get it onto the ramp as theres not enough ground clearance!
So far as I know the air suspension works, but as the engine doesnt run I cant get it to pump up the suspension (its not supposed to work until it detects that the engine is running at more than 500 rpm). Apparently it detects this from the tacho output on the alternator the same way as the rpm counter does (its 300tdi).
So has anyone got any ideas how i can fool it into running so I can get it to lift to standard ride height?
I've had it suggested that I could disconnect all 4 air lines from the valve block and fit them with valves and inflate with an air line manually, but it seems alot of agro if theres an easy way to do it by, say, shorting a couple of pins on a plug together somewhere!
Otherwise I thought - connect compressor wiring direct to a spare battery to pressurise the tank. Then disconnect the ecu and put 12v accross the wiring to each solenoid valve in turn to get it to lift. However i dont have a wiring diagram for it!
Anyone ever been here before or got any bright ideas?
Thanks
Jon
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Meant to add that I've seen one (supposedly professionally done) and the plates had been brazed to the casing rather than welded.
Jon
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Automotive seam sealer - sticks like whatsit to a blanket but remains flexible. Available in white from your local (decent) motor factors (not halfrauds)
Jon
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It is necessary to add a plate to the diff housing as the material there is actually pretty thin, and if tapped at M16 you'd probably only get 1 or 2 threads in the casing - its only about 3mm thick.
Round bar from Rs, or you can buy square section or round bar from Mallard Metals in Brum by the inch. You do need to use PB as having tried it, brass is not hard enough and wears extremely quickly!
Jon
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Yeah it was the freezing cold water jetting up the small of my back I didnt like!!! Then he got stuck and I opened the door to be showered with freezing cold water by the side mounted exhaust that was now underwater and doing its best impression of an ornamental fountain..........
I'm surprised there werent goldfish in that lake to be honest........
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Chuckles!!! Superb!!!!
She's got a sense of humor!!!!
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I'm afraid to say that if its needs anything other than brushes, its more economical to bin it and purchase a shiney new one!
I looked into this a few years ago. Could find plenty of places that re-wound motors, but none that would do a DC one. All apparently only deal with AC ones.
Jon
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Ah........meant to add I've only ever done steelies!!! Would try it with alloys anyway as they'd get scratched to hell......
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I always do my own. Never had a problem.
However I have to say that there is definately a knack to it - once you've got it its easy. If you've not got it you can struggle for hours!
I find a quick squirt of WD40 is enough lube.
I just use a couple of pry bars as i dont have any tyre levers.
Jon
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Just one thing to try before abandoning all hope - check that someone hasn't screwed the reversing light switch in too far, cause I've had exactly this problem! It was cured, for free, by adjusting the reverse light switch out a little.
Jon
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Hmmmmmmm can understand how it works, but have to say those parts dont look easy to make yourself!
Jon
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What engine you running?
Need powersteering.
in Series Forum
Posted
I Would be inclined to loose the relay unit entirely and to have as few linkages in the system as possible, as it all helps to reduce the vagueness of the steering.
I'm running a 6 bolt 90 box on my series and it drives so much better! No more sawing at the wheel just to keep it going in a straight line!
Jon