Nigelw
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Posts posted by Nigelw
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I have always been skeptical of the Adblu theory, but it went ahead with the pressures from GVT
I have had a little read up on this as one of my mates is getting an old Volvo truck rebuilt for him by the horse transport firm he works for, why? The cost of the Adblu and the problems they are experiencing getting supplies when they need them, the tanks on the trucks are not big enough for the distances they do, and even then, the running costs of the Adblu trucks is actually higher than the regular old diesels from 20yrs ago, they lack the power of the older trucks too and some of the most recent editions with their auto boxes are horrendous on fuel, so bad that Dave had to check 3X on the way from Netherlands to Portugal to see if the diesel tank had a leak, and then running out of adblue sent the truck into a rough running POS that drank even more diesel.
Is Adblu really the future of diesel technology? And if so, are owners of the new range of "bluetec" fully aware of the extra costs associated with running a diesel?
Is petrol looking like the best bet for buyers of new vehicles?
I read up a little here
Cant find it now but there was a piece from an owner of a Merc who had a surprise €1400 extra to pay at the 25,000 km service to have the adblu topped up
EURO6 what a F###ing con
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I can't help but wonder why you are looking up previous keepers?
I only know the last owner of my Disco, and coincidentally I have to drive right past their front door on 25th Jan and might just stop by to show them how much the Discovery changed since they last saw it in the flesh.
Whats your reason for wanting to know more?
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Direct to Adwest or Paddocks for a slightly dearer price but easy option order today, delivered tomorrow.
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Or swap out the existing 10spline diff shafta CVs stubbs and hubs and replace with 24spline variety like I did in order to fit alloys on my early Disco http://projectrusty1992.blogspot.nl/?m=1
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Very nice, can see that in combination with a windy gun an spanner getting some serious dimples pressed out quick smart
Any idea on how you can press out louvered vents with such a tool?
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36psi for those that are still imperial
See how you go, that is a good stiff pressure for sure and there should be the minimum of rolling resistance at that pressure.
You could get the boost on sooner, are you planning to up the boost fueling on the pump too?
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Bonjour
What tyre pressures are you running?
Soft tyres make a world of difference!!!
Have you optimized the pump output? I ask this as although it should make sense to use moor fuel by injecting more fuel it almost works arze about face as you need to burn more to get the torque converter up to max efficiency as fast as possible, flooring it just gives poor fuel consumption.
Apart from that you have done just about everything possible, 300Tdi's have always been heavier on fuel in the auto variant, expect a manual to achieve around 11-12L/100Kms, I have heard of 9.5/10 but those are mostly long journeys with lots of flat motorway.
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I've seen a system in which you fit a dummy tube, made from a sort of air-tight, non-stretch canvas, which is as wide as the rim but not as tall as the tyre. This is inflated to a fairly high pressure so the tyre never pops off the rim. A second valve fills the (effectively tubless) tyre to whatever pressure you need (as low as 0 p.s.i. if you want). It is a brilliant system but I've only seen it the once (on a friend's 90) so wonder if there is some hidden issue with it.
In terms of size, I'm a big fan of 255/85s on a Land Rover. A few manufacturers make them (BFG, Maxxis at least) I've seen 255/100s advertised which would be great if you need more height but they're hen's teeth.
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Looky looky.
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=24753
A proper HfH tech moment from Almost 7yrs ago now
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You see there Mike, I run 235 as opposed to the 285 as I wanted a narrow'ish tyre, 285s are very wide and in my opinion have too great a flotation to bite into sticky clays? I could easily be wrong? But that is also a slight downfall of the 235, it is narrower, and hence the desire to be able to drop pressures to achieve the maximum flotation from the tyres. If you can see what I mean through my inarticulate ramblings.
I suppose it'll be suck it and see when I am back out on the trails again.
Although I was flicking through some old threads and came across a split rim with a PVC insert to lock both beads but can't find out anything more about the idea, google hates me today
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Just get a set of Stauns and pick whatever wheel you want.
They seem prohibitively expensive and not exactly highly rated from quite a few threads I've researched about them.
Anyone got experience of these? full set of 5 works out the same as a set of the Stauns
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Mrs. Nigelw often tells me that somethings really should stay inside my head, but this is going somewhere, I hope
I posted this thread yesterday http://http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=92529 , since posting it, my head has been rather busy thinking and wondering about the whole subject of wheels and tyres.
What is it that makes us choose the type and size of tyres that we do?
My choices were simple, tall enough to tackle Defender sized ruts and wide enough to provide enough flotation when I drop the pressures for soft running but narrow enough for sticky clays where you need narrow widths to cut in and bite into firm drier grounds for traction.
I first posted a thread about tyre pressures to see what most other folk run http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=92026&hl= which gave me other things to think about after some youtube research, low pressures for max footprint could compromise the outer bead and force it off the rim, giving bigger problems. To top it all off I have always had this fascination with peoples fashion for things that are not what they seem, ie, look-a-like bead locking rims, necessary for the low pressures are proper bead lock rims, then came the video linked above.
Now I find myself in a quandry about the whole thing. Having bought a new set of tyres to save the Coopers I now need rims, yet another issue, looking at rims brought the whole beadlock thing to a head, what to do??? I want plain steels for the coopers, but I would like a wider off-set, I am drawn to the idea of having beadlocks so I can run sub 10psi pressures without worrying for the beads.
Not sure where the hell this is going but god help me
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Hilarious
reminds me of the girl wanting her tramp stamp saying "ANGEL" and ended up with "ANGLE", I kept thinking just get "IRON" underneath it and all is good
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I'm gonna join that group, need more comedy in my life
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You have to use McDonalds for your work?
Classic
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For goodness sakes, I had a browse of the comments beneath, OMG!!!
This one caught my eye in particular though
Olde English wrote:
I had a similar problem last year Police not interested Council not interested even tho i poimted out the potential danger regarding petrol & Children(which never go together too well!)
So the way i got round it was i saw a scrap lorry in a nearby street and asked them to come and take it away........it was gone the same day!!!Not sure this believable but what would be happening to his car whilst he was on his holidays if he did that to anything belonging to me would be very interesting
I thought scrap men were getting tighter about log books and stuff, or money talks bull s##t walks in that industry still
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Learned something new tooday, just goes to show how little I knew about turbo charging :-P
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I heard tons of the myths and legends garb, land rovers are supposed to be unreliable, toyota are supposed to be bomb proof?
Why is it that LR sells so many cars? Why do the LR buyers do so in spite of the "bomb proof" Toyota?
Buy what suits you after test driving a few models of each that satisfy your criteria, only you know what you are expecting from the new vehicle, only you will be responsible for covering the costs of repairs and wear and tear.
Any vehicle can wrack up hundreds of thousands of Kilometers if it serviced and looked after, the owners who buy and sell them with the "these motors go forever" often neglect the real reason why, maintenance.
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Nice
I am having issues with spring rates as I will be adding a rear winch and a full internal roll cage so the weight will be upped by around 350Kgs
Will be looking to find longer flexy springs not the stiff horrid types I have seen thus far.
Tray back looks sweet, you did a good job on that
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My Disco has perfectly polished rear discs too and no bias valve thingy either after looking at the system today,(1992 200Tdi Disco 1 if you're wondering).
If you have one you could remove it and see how it goes?
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But therein lies the problem. I just happened to notice that little modification as it was buried in a thread that happens to be of interest to me. How many great modifications lie hidden in the threads i havent read as they hold no interest for me?
If there was a separate section, that particular mod could be listed there, easy for everyone to peruse.
Actually I had a few PMs elsewhere about my speedi-sleeve repair of a steering box, so I know what you mean about the buried in a thread comment
I do have a trawl through the tech archive to see if there are any ideas I can glean off fo my own build but some titles don't lend themselves to being helpful or much of it is Defender related and no tag to say otherwise
(ie, hold no interest for me ) -
I like the idea and find it good to try and put things in places of relevance but I also find it a pain in the hole when some info is missing, part No.s etc, posts that go in would need to be in a kind of a "how to" guide/this is what I did.
Perhaps if there are sections of peoples threads they find interesting then they could PM them to ask if they have time to write it up and PM admin of the "how to", then that thread could go into the tech archive with tags for relevant vehicles?
I did a few "how to's", not exactly hard but time consuming as you need to plan your photo's and be able to construct a decent write up, not just a before and after pic with a continuous line of "this/this/that/wiggle/wiggle and tadaa". Please don't take that as too strong a criticism but I like an in-depth article.
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A good friend in Norway has something similar in his 300Tdi Disco, he considers it a necessity in winter(think -20°C cold and wind chills of -40°C) so he runs it from October to March, warms up to running temp faster and gets heat in the cab quicker too, he runs a coolant circulation pump that helps keep the water temp stable all round the system.
He has an LED warning light on the dash to let him know if he has forgotten to unplug it.
The only thing John did say that it would have been simpler to have fitted a later Kenlowe hot-start all in one unit, but the block heater came up at a good price and the rest just fell into place.
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I saw this and it really put me off the idea of a snorkel.
Breakdown cover
in International Forum
Posted
I am trying to choose between ADAC and ANWB at the moment, ANWB were at my assistance today when the exhaust dropped off the Pug206, as I am still deciding I had no cover and used the road side box to ring for assistance, they told me it would be €150 for the tow to a garage off the A2 near Utrecht, but the guy had a magic clamp to join the pipes to get me driving to Amsterdam where I found a garage to help.
Now, the thing is that I didn't have cash only my card and on the phone I had talked to the operator and explained that I would pay by card, poor guy just had to let us go on our way, he said "today you have good luck with the paying, but it will even out your day" guess he was a philosopher of sorts?
Looks like ADAC will get my money this year!!!