Nigelw
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Posts posted by Nigelw
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And instantly I was transported back to 1998 driving a CAT 637Just use a freelander, it's lighter and simpler and cheaper. The new chinese Rovers have a turbo'd 1.8 K-series, a phone call to DVAPower for some head work and a megasquirt and you're away. Or buy two with autoboxes and put a 2nd engine in the boot
LOL!!! I mean, just thinking about it a few seconds longer, complete space framed shell and chassis clad negating the extra weight of the T5 chassis would drop the weight to sesible levels and a super charged V8 coupled to the D3 drive train would make it go reasonably quick but with using an original body silhouette could make it IVA friendly, right?
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In that case, you might be wise to take another TD5 OR TDCI ? There are tons of aftermarket fixes for any an all electronics in them.Thanks guys for the answers. I am from Belgium Nigel.
I already had 2 defenders and I liked them. I love the simplicity. The first was a 2500 cc/5cyl and the second a 2400cc/4cyl.
Nigel, it is absolutely a D4, 3000cc/6cyl. I love the disco too but wich will last, the def or the disco. With both I only drive on concreet.
Disco will be more expensive long term with service intervals comming up for major parts but look at the other flip side, was there a petrol Def since the last of the original V8 models? A V8 D4 would be more suitable surely? I say this as there seems to be a drive to push diesels out of major cities in Europe Paris is pushing for 2020! Mind you Belgium being the way it is they'd probably ban petrol :@ (before you get upset I lived all over Belgium for over 4yrs, the strangest systems I ever encountered)
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Not to mention having to farm out some of the more complex jobs making it even more expensive, think it could be fun to have a boggo looker that eats Imprezza's for lunch
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Exactly my inspiration!You mean like Richard's D-Lander? It's a good combo (especially now he's got a V8 in it)
I did start thinking about a T5 chassis an running gear ala RRS or D3 but then it becomes serious money to get it on the road legally
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Hi,
Sorry for my english I am dutch. I have a disco 4 and he is 4 years old. With the end of the defender in the near future I ask myself if it would be better to buy a defender. The reason is that I think a defender last longer than a disco. Is that right? With the disco I only drive on the street, never 4x4. Do you think that it is possible to drive more than 20 years with the disco?
thanks for answer,
blaft formerly known as Jean Pierre
Welkom op het forum
The Deafner might seem like an investment but it is a vehicle you have to love, the draughts, the wet left knee when it rains, the back ache on anything more than an hour long drive.
At 4yrs you must have a D3? A Deafner is a heck of a step down in safety with no airbags, no side impact protection, roll over and falling object protection is an awful lot less too.
Only highway driving is not exactly what they were designed and built for either. I know of a couple of other guys who bought Deafners, the novelty wore off in less than a year and they were sold on, drive ten or so in as many variants as you can, decide first if you can live with it before you commit to buying one!
where are you in NL? I live in Weert, Limburg.
Grtz. Nigel.
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When this came around all I could think was "Government scam" !!!!
Sorry, but when you can cancel insurance policies and get a complete to the exact days refund from the broker(and that was some 10yrs ago the last time I did that!!) But the all powerful UK GOV can't possibly use such antiquated programmes to be honest with the public and only charge them for what they use, nothing more, nothing less.
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Thing is, with an X-brake I can't help but think a bigger version of a mc disc lock would be a good idea
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Yeah the 110 was shertened front, rear, and a bit of fettling of the rear arches on the escort made it all fit.
I always fancied a space framed shell clad in Freelander panels ;-)
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I have done tons of stick welding, but I was lucky enough to have a rather large 3 phase oil cooled Lincoln in the past, will try with smaller rods and fit up a cooling fan to begin, cheap fixes until I can afford a decent welder for the heavy jobs to come.
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Right then, there is no cooling fan, or at least nothing comes on when I turn it on, can I fit one on it?
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I tried the flux cored wire and found it almost unusable for me, no idea why but a whole afternoon playing with 2mm practice plates saw 2 in over a 100 welds come out passable
not exactly good enough for me and no matter what I tried it didn't get better, back on normal wire and gas with polarity put back it was A ok.Offer of a cheap second hand stick welder rated for 145A seeed too good to pass up, used it for the 1st time last night on some 3mm plate to repair some metal work in the riding hall, 3.2mm rods and max power saw barely 5 inches of weld before it thermally tripped
Welds are good though 
Is there anything I can do? Has anyone done anything similar to get a longer running time?
I will try with some smaller rods to see how it goes but not really wanting to bin it in a hurrry.
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I like it
Good to see you are still recycling old scrap bill
One of my mates from way back took an old Escort van and mated it to a 110 chassis and drive train after he rolled it and flattened the 110 body, no pics of it as back then it was only 35mm film but will ask if he has any.
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Not sure where you are, but your mechanic experiences are not unusual, ie, $900 to replace an $80 part
I would suggest you seek out a local club and see who is using who for garage repairs for complex stuff you can't handle yourself.
As for the 4X4, LR made a fundamental flaw with the D2 in believing the TC alone was strong enough and removed the center diff lock (CDL) the problem there is that you don't have the true 50/50 split between front and rear when you need it, and as you have found, your truck with disabled TC and no CDL can become one wheel drive, although I anot sure why the TC is working in low range and not in high?
Good luck with sorting this out.
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OMG, how blatent and down right arrogant, when the ego gets that big they make mistakes, lets hope they left some prints the mother hubbards!!!
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Looks like it needs a bit of a buff and it's good to go
Think this is gonna be a good thread as it progresses
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That was my understanding regarding the american imported beadlock rims, if they were DOT approved they were good enough, but then again that was for England, they have different laws and rules in each member state as I'm finding out in each one I move to
Maybe the aromatherapy oils are the publicized reason but there does appear to be a back door for everything these days
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Oh dear, me likes, but what to do with the current Boost alloys?
Trying to picture the Ibex with them on but also think it woud look cool with some 18" Bead locked rims too
Off to find a pic of the ones I liked previously.
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A quick email to the NL distributor yielded interesting results, they can and will supply what ever you are willing to pay for and wait for if it needs to be imported.
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tyres taller than 25"
a 6.00X16 is 28" FFSso basically they can be imported and sold by who ever to who ever wants to buy them
I always fancied a set of super swampers on a portaled RRC for some reason
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They would fall into the "professional off road tyres" category surely?
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The Cooper STT are the most agressive tyres I will own these days, my reasoning is that if the terrain is so bad that they suffer traction wise, then I need to find another route, if thats not an option then out come the tyre chains
Incidentally, that idea came from a German fella I know, he runs BFG A/Ts and has a set of chains for the odd time the ground is sticky enough to possibly stop them, he recons that a lot of folk waste far too much money on aggressive tyres and the higher fuel consumption that comes with them, when they could just fit some chains for that 5 or six days a yea that they might actually need aggressive tyres.
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Devon used to for sure but I think LA supertrux do or at least, did?
Other option, buy them state side and ship them yourself? Could be expensive!!!
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For EAS.
Against retro fitting coil springs onto an otherwise luxury vehicle.
Lot of haters out there who do silly things like using garages with little to no EAS experience, well, more haters out there who knew the best friend of the mother of Pavarotti's sister in-laws best friend who spent a small fortune on the EAS with a garage who replaced a lot of things which never solved the problems and only came away with a bad taste in their mouths and an empty wallet.
EAS is (only in my own humble opinion that is) shrouded in myths that the haters flail in attempt to get you to swap to coils.
Air springs have a life span of around 5yrs, haters say that coils last forever, although coils sag and lose memory, just ask anyone who fitted brand new std height springs on their truck, it does all too often appear that the truck has been lifted, wrong, new springs = correct ride height.
EAS is not exactly complicated if maintained, but it is more complex than coils, ride height sensors fail, compressors wear out, air springs wear or deteriorate with age, valve block seals harden with age and need replacing, if maintained and kept in good health it can be kept reliable.
I love EAS, it gives you a lift for off road or slammed to the bump stops to help your gran get in or out onto the pavement.
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Sweet
Like the LED flood/spot lights, they any good?
LOL!!! 
a 6.00X16 is 28" FFS
defender versus disco
in Discovery Forum
Posted
Thats right, the Carbonara in Italy, there have been a fair few spotted, although I think the 90 with a 2ltr turbo petrol would be a hoot