Nigelw
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Posts posted by Nigelw
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It does state that it is 4x4 on the original kenteken papers so I am wondering for the effective prop removal.
It has 195,000 kms so roughly 110,000 miles, could it be a duff IRD? I think very possibly a stuck VCU at those Kms.
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Yes, and get some flat plate to repair the panel behind it too, most likely you'll be able to put your finger through it somewhere.
If you need to cut the door post through then be sure to fit bracing as you will have seen in one of my pictures, it ensures the door post does not shift or settle and the doors clse as they should when finished
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Looking at a Freelander as it seems hopeless waiting around for the Discovery to be registered.
Just saw a 2000 MY 1.8 at a sensible price, but the seller decribed it as being converted to 2WD and that it drove better than 4WD???
Now before I waste time going to look, is there a proper off the shelf conversion or is this most likely a cheap skate way of getting around without replacing something serious in terms of monetary value? If it is the cheap skate version is it likely that any other high priced components/ repairs are going to be needed in the imminent future? ie, knackered gearbox ????
It is impeccably clean inside but that mean jack if it is gonna kill me financially to buy it and then end up back on the bike without a chance to save the readies for new parts.
Ideas?
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Oh my
:o Think there will be some serious traffic light gand prix action when you get that beast on the road, fantastic work there
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First question, do you actually "want & need" to fit the 35" tyres?
I was offered a full set of 35" simex copies with rims for my Disco, price was amazing, too good to turn down, but I did, why? I don't need 35" tyres and there would be no gains apart from aesthetics as I would need a super low ratio to make any use of them off road, they are a huge tyre and I think the 32" tyres I have are about as much as I would comfortably put on my truck for fear of over stressing the stock drive train, to go any bigger and to make effective use of such tyres would warrant rather big spends on uprated drive line, just my opinion.
If you had a need for such a tyre then you would be fitting it to the wrong base vehicle, that series is 30yrs old and the base mechnicals are much older in design and you couuld be buying more problems than you realize! They were built for 28" tyres, 35 is 1/4 of that again
Expect half shafts and diffs to go pop regular if you plan to drive places a set of tyres like that can take you. -
Yep, look on YRM or Froggats for the body mounts, they're readily available but if you have a stash of 2mm plate and a hole saw then with a little bit of patients you can easily fab your own
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The bottom of the "A" post is for sure, the rot in the rear door frame will be too, the rear wheel arch also, not easy to do at all and as always, it's not until you start cutting it out you really find out how bad it is.
Teaching yourself to weld is one thing but doing it on structural stuff is something else, not being condescending there, it's just that I have had hundreds of hours welding and seem to learn something new or different every time I arc up.
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http://www.lrocb.be/lrocbeforum/viewtopic.php?f=97&t=55611
That was way beyond economical repair but I saved it
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All repairable, just depends on your level of skill/competence with a welder and sheet steel.
When I'm back on the tablet I'll post some pic of worse and what I did to it, better still post a linky for ya
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Simple answer, not on your life for on road towing, better to get a HD front bumper with either welded on eyes or swivel recovery points that could be modified.
At your own risk if you do but it could cost you more than just the car if it fails whilst in motion.
Looked over a set up on a Smart car that was "A" framed behind a mates camper, the mounts on that were 5X thicker than the Disco bumper and that is a car that weighs around 1/3 of a Disco.
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I do love Disco's
It has been known for the joint between the two halfs to split and also for the rad caps to fail holding pressure too.
Have you had a sniff test for exhaust gasses in the water? (sorry, being lazy and not read your other thead yet, might be back with a new answer later
).I assume a 300Tdi? can be a bugger to bleed properly!!!
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Ah, no no no, I have a 200Tdi, there is an idler/tensioner "V" pulley that goes on the spindle flange where the FIP cover would normally be.
The pulley is part No. 614718, the inspection cover tensioner spindle is part No. ETC 8853
I just found the idler/tensioner pulley and the bearings grumble a little but it does spin freely.
Any idea on how you might be able to swap out the idler/tensioner bearings?
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How interesting, but I see the grim reaper at work in there with regards the "costs and burdens" wordings.
Time to start shooting these scum bags, also known as politicians.
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I have/had an idler pulley, just gotta rummage around in my spares boxes to see if it's still usable?
If the bearings are shot, can they be replaced?
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Genuine one it is going to have to be then
One day they will stop selling tat, then again, probably not LOL
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Mundane I know, but is it possible that BP could deliver a serviceable pulley?
The only part to ellude me was the A/C pulley for the crank, found a choice of 2, both supplied by same parts dealer, one is genuine and the other being BP. The cost comparison is significant and hence my question here, BP retails £60 genuine is £95.
Worth a gamble or just wasting my time?
Part is ERR 2352 crank pulley with aircon.
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The wires run under the dash to the side of the car and then go up the door post and windshield frame and along the body to roof joint to the rear of the car, this happens on both sides feeding the audio and electrical functions ie, light clusters and such, the fact that both front and rear have gone down on one side I doubt it would be a chaffed cable though.
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The result of my LED fitting can be seen on page 12 of "Project Rusty" in the members vehicles forum
The LEDs i fitted came off a strip thing that I bought in the Lidl, they have a remote controller that allows them to be dimmed and as they have the ability to show a variety of colour spectrum I can choose between solid green, blue, white an blue and almost anything in between. The length was 5m long, got 4.5m left to play with and a load of connectors that could allow me to run them anywhere in the car to provide abient lighting of my choice in almost any colour!!
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It was so dark in there I could barely see the gear sticks at night!!!
I was busy wth fitting LED lamps into the small ventilation console last night and hope that the extra light output will help?
There was some sort of ambient LED lighting in the door card of a VW Passat that I drove a few weeks back, that was very pleasant as when I wanted to get out of an unfamiliar car, I didn't find myself fumbling for the door latch. Not sure how I could get something like that built into the door cards of the Disco though?
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D1 200Tdi and if I said the interior lighting was poor it would be an understatement!!
Not talking about when the doors are open, that was cured ages ago, the trouble is I can see nothing in the cab without the turning on the now ultra bright center light, but I want something else in there so that even when driving there is a given amount of light in there.
Has anyone else addressed this in their own Discovery? If so what did you do to give lighting in the dark and dingey cab at night?
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Allan, a Deafener
wash your keyboad out immediately!!!!D1 300Tdi in good condition and keep the rest for goodies to fit it out with, winch and winching bumper, nice set of tyres and have it given a full comprihensive service includingnew cambelt and you'll have a great motor for a long time.
The reason D3s are so cheap and in such an abundance is that folk can't affod the high running costs, brakes are not cheap, high miles mean things like wheel bearings and suspension bushings need done, also not cheap unless you do it yourself, even then parts prices vary wildly, and usually best fitting genuine for reliability and peace of mind, the electricals are beginning to fail and by many accounts the gremlins have sent a few to ealy graves due to high costs and complexities of the operating systems, the air suspension systems will need new bags soon enough as they will be right on the age limmit for them and will fail when you least expect them to. Failing that you are right, they are a great car to drive and a pleasant place to be, if you can afford it, that is.
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The mega squirter you describe is our very own Hybrid From Hell
think you'll be safe buying from him LOLLiked the plate over idea
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Sitting on 235/85 R16 has put it up a lot already from what it was wearing
So any extra chassis above ground clearance would be to it's advantage. Did the spring diameters change at all on the P38? Was the chassis a whole new build or same platform as an RRC LSE?
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Of course, looking at the ally blocks on the top of the spring they are the spacers that hold it in place and away from the center pressing of the spring cup.
The same for the back I guess?
I noticed the font shock mount uses the same bolts as the PAS box to locate them, can't yet find the part No. for them but assume they could be bought as replacement parts??? then from the earlier pic showing the bottom of the front shock mounts, I am guessing that I can get some 3mm plate and bend it to make them and then weld them to the panhard rod mount.
I thought I had the air tanks sorted, HGV ones, they are just not the size I wanted, maybe they get the ones in from a 7.5T truck soon enough???
Apart from that, the rest of the OBA stuff is coming together nicely
:o 
2WD?
in Freelander Forum
Posted
Choice 2 is a 3 door 2.5 V6, full leather interior and still 4WD.
Will go see both and have a look see, do have an old Volvo estate car on offer for €500 on LPG should either not pan out, will seem odd sitting so low to the ground again though.