Nigelw
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Posts posted by Nigelw
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What seals are they between the two caliper halves? I can't seem to find them or any reference to them on my CDROM, also, what torque setting for the bolts as that isn't liste either
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I was at that point watching Steve on the edgings of that bridge watching to see him side step off the side
Good job he didn't
Oh yes MTs, winches, cages, lockers,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Think the list goes on LOL
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If I remember rightly, there was a 200 rebuild series in LRM, could be worth hunting down back issues??? It was very comprehensive with 2 or 3 pages each month and gave lots of info over a number of months unlike the usual LRO type rebuilds that span 2 pages and it goes from oily blowing scrap to shiny new everything in that double page spread.
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Not really seeing the point of advertising it for such a price with so much damage?
Maybe I'm missing the point
I wonder, with such extensive damage, is it actually serviceable? I mean, they pretty much say "sold as seen", hard to see a bent chassis or buckled front axle, could just be the beginning of a rather expensive rebuild, unless you are buying it for the "cool" factor?
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And to think this would have been on my event list in my Disco had we sorted the registration sooner
:o You really think a cage is a must Nige?
How much damage you think a Disco might encounter on this event?
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Where is it leaking from?
I assume you are just looking to buy time until a good S/H box turns up or cash is available for a new one?
There are cheap enough seal kits around and I did re-seal one and with use of a speedi-sleeve I got over the pitted shaft that was causing the seals failure.
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Yep
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How much for the screen? I was quoted 659 for screen and a new seal.
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Yep, pretty much the same bar it having 100" wheelbase.
It has the go anywhere capability but gives you comfort to do it in, only difference is that it has a monocoque upper body shell, only downside is that once they get beyond 7 or 8 yrs old the dreaded rust gets hold and if left untreated it can fast head beyond economic repair.
What plans have you got for it?
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Open the cover in the back behind the light cluster and follow the black wire to the earthing point and clean it up,or put in a new one? I used the old bolt hples an captive nuts for the dickie seats when I fitted the 300Tdi rear bumper woth the extra lamps.
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Budgeting £80 a tyre makes me feel silly paying 200 (£160) per tyre for my Cooper STT :-(
It is doable but takes shopping wisely and searching hard online for bargains.
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good luck, exporting from germany into russia
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Dash ain't so simple, the 200 has the dash sub frames spot welded into the shell the 300 has removable frames that are bolted in and you will need absolutely everything off the 300, steering column etc,. Oh and the speed transducer for the speedo as it is electric not mechanical.
Seems a heck of a lot of work for such a small gain, I personally preffered the 200 dash as it is smaller and more compact, although I did like the 300 dash in my V8, the 200 just suits me better.
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Right, looking at the "Lion" engine range has thrown up other donor possibilities, Peugeot 407 & 607, Citroen C5 & C6, Jaguar XF - XJ & S type.
Of course the usual suspects of the land rover fleet can be used to source one also, if buying an accident damaged one you gain the transmission but that might or might not be interesting, just depends on what you want, cheapest source for the engine and ECU etc will be one of the Pug/Citroen cars that have been written off, at least they will have a realistic price that would be affordable, buying a write off LR with the V6/V8 will be in the region of £6-8,000 depending on how bad they are damaged etc,.
Just need to research a bit more on what systems are involved in the other fitments to ensure viability but already seen a C6 cat B write off for £3000 with rear end damage and light at that, bonus for that would be having intercooler and rads etc, all ready to be used in the conversion should they be required.
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If they have been off a number of times they get loose but nothing more than a bit of blue tack is required or even chewing gum.
Mind you, what else did you expect with the mountain of bodges discovered so far
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Buy a good quality brand one and replace it, the cheap ones do just what yours is doin now, the next step it where it starts to shred and wraps itself around everything else, I had a serp V8 and the invoice in the folder showed it had been changed only 200miles previously and that was starting to shred on the edges and was heading for the canvas.
Either fit genuine or at least a Dayco belt.
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They just pull off.
You may need to get a set of vice grips, the needle nose ones, on the little metal bit and then another set on the actual knob and then wiggle wiggle wiggle.
Be gentle with them though as I wrecked a speed controller switch getting too heavy handed
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No, it can be a reality, it all comes down to how much money you want to throw at your hobby.
I quickly came to the conclusion that buying pallet engines and trans can be risky so started looking at accident damaged vehicles, this lead me to the conclusion that unless you have a budget of say £6,000 to £8,000 and a time frame of around a year, undercover storage an garage space then rock on.
Salvage from the accident damaged truck might cover the cost of buying it but the time is the bug bare and then hassle of selling the rest off.
Might be worth it?
I don't have the facilities any longer so not a prospect for me at the moment.
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More speculation than the plot lines in Mid Sommers murders
Nothing to report here then so we'll make something up to report.
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take full engine, trans and transfer from an accident damaged D3 RRS etc set of P38 axles and bolt it up with full harness and all sensors and then disect to see what circuits you don't need.
Been thnking about this a lot myself as I am ever so keen to get past the stumbling block that is progress where so many people are still gagging to get a 2/300Tdi, engines that are 15yrs old for the youngest 300 and upto 25yrs old for a 200.
If funds were to permit I would buy an accident damaged motor and find out what I could get rid of without affecting the engine.
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I had a bad starting A frame BJ once, used a round file on the side it was tight on and hanging up and opened it up a few thou just to help it in, worked a treat along with a smear of copper slip in the hole to try and make getting it back out less of a ball ache.
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They are great budget for limited mileage in a year but as said, they wear quickly.
The last set I had needed less balance weights than my current Cooper STTs! But I have had one set that simply got sold on as they couldn't be balanced at all and shook the steering violently at anything over 50mph.
Weigh up your miles and compare them against a similar tread pattern of a high end brand and work out if there are savings to be had?
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Why go to the hassle of swapping entire axles?
I rebuilt my front axle on my 200Tdi Discovery with all the necessary from the front axle of a 300Tdi to give the desired 24 spline hardware.
Unless the axles are very good condition and your originals are rusted to buggery just swap the internals over.
Follow the link in my sig, there is a post in my blog about swapping from 10 to 24 spline.
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Genuine part is also of the lightweight pressed steel variety it seems, it is rather more tempting to have a pulley custom made out of a billet but think it would cost a couple hundred euro.
Speaking of parts coming blue boxed, Adwest steering boxes come in blue boxes these days, from a multitude of suppliers unless you buy direct from Adwest.
:o 
backache
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Having had a blast in a couple of brand new Defs I can say that, as much as you might think suspension is the way to go, it could be cheaper and easier to buy one of the packages from Exmoore Trim and renovating your existing seats, you will be amazed how much spring new foam has against your old ones.
And if you still find the persistent back ache then looking at the Nothern Tool seat suspension seems a reasonable way to go, might be worth clearing such a component with your insurance co. first, you never know how they will react to a non std fitting like that.