Nigelw
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Posts posted by Nigelw
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That person appears to be dreaming, you know that the comment "start niet" means don't you? It means "does not start".
I know exactly what it means, scrap money only
Yet there are some desirable parts like the leather seats etc but only worth a couple hundred topline for them and I got full leather for my Discovery for €75 the rest is not worth more than €500, if it was an easy fix then they would have fixed it and made a bit more, this is a garage seller by the way
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Just browsing for this winters potential project.
Anyone think the price a bit steep for this?
http://www.2dehands.be/autos/autos/land-rover/landrover-freelander-2-0-td-105-000-185801896.html
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Would actually say £500 was a good bid for the wheels and tyres, break the rest, engine is worth something if not destroyed, gearboxes too, leather interior might fetch a few pennies, all in all it is worth about a grand if broken nicely, just depends on if you have the time?
Bit of hassle doing it but you could walk away having doubled your money.
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I was thinking on the centering with the joy stick and instantly thought of Volvo loaders, the L180E I used to drive used some kind of sensors and when adjusted to your routine work heights you pulled the lever back into a detent and it kicked out at the magic point same for lowering, it allowed you to drop the arms and concentrate on steering and it would kick out at a given height off the ground, for you app this woul be center, if I remember rightly there were magnets involved, but worth looking at as well.
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Like how the DC100 is going to be in the future line up, not as Def replacement but a supplementary product.
The possible new Def in those drawings looks just like a Ford Ranger
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a defender that starred in the new james bond film anyone?
Which one do you get? The one with or without the roof rack?
Nice with the Auto box behind the 2.4 TDCI engine I'll bet.
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Another question on this subject, is a 300 the same as a 200 as in they have another hidden core plug behind the timing chest?
Most likely you'd be better to pull the manifolds, you know if you don't do it first that you'll end up anyway, that's how it normally works for me
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Not sure if you know where the MFU lives but it is behind the under dash fuse board.
What color is it on your car?
Black ones gave endless grief but the cream ones are better but still go wrong due to them being a "ROVER" part LOL.
Does the rear window wiper not work at all? What about wash-wipe?
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I wonder, is it a propaganda stunt with the global media?
I mean, it made the BBC, it is and has been all over the global auto press, but is there really ever going to be a new Defender? How far can they stretch it out I wonder?
Reliable, cost effective commercial vehicles are not and have not been part of the Land Rover future plans for 20Yrs, let's face it, when they had the greatest chance back in the 1990s to bring forward a new commercial vehicle they pushed money elsewhere.
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I meant that them being a weak link means that they wear instead of the half shafts, diff, propshafts, tbox.
No, they are the weakest link due to the lowest contact surface and softer spline material compared with a stub shaft.
This was the engineered weak link to enable rapid return to service without damaging any of the vital components further along the drive train, ie, CV joint, UJ on props and gear box internals.
In terms of wear and corrosion, they are prone to wear only on vehicles with greased wheel bearings, I have had to resort to the HD drive members to keep the oil in the hubs where I have circumvented the seal to allow full EP90 lubrication of every internal component, the oil seal is still present between the axle casing and the swivel housing but only to stop cross contamination should water ingress into one or the other component occur, I have never seen nor heard of a wear failure of these flanges where oil is circulating and providing continuous lubrication.
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I don't think this logic holds. The stock flanges do not fail from overload. They fail from wear. They do not protect the halfshafts.
please explain how you come by that conclusion?
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I would't go for the Allmakes/Britpart one (same price, so most likely the same part), the bearings fail and can take out your rad...
I fitted one I got from BCP, it certainly wasn't £250, but was definitely a proper OEM, if not genuine part.
I have to go to the university of Ghent so will callin and see Joachim on my way round on Monday
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Did you weld any flat bar or small gauge box across those flat panels? I know from experience that the drumming from flat panels drove me bonkers!!!
Looking really good there now.
You bending the cage up yourself or getting one made for you?
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As long as it is ++ and -- it is fine you are just doubling the cranking amps so I am told.
to make 24V you go + off one to neg off the other and either side is 24V + & - if that makes sense?
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Be sure to wire your lights with relays and the lighting stalk might survive.
Apart from that "may god be with you on every journey"
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The other point to consider is the required airflow. With an after market fan, the airofoil blade has been designed to give a maximum flow for a given size electric motor at arround 85% of the total motor capacity, this gives a certain design leeway and prevents the motor from blowing fuses from drawing excess current, over the design max cubic litres per second the blades simply cavitate reducing the driving load on the electric motor.
The buyer has no idea really just how much air flow his vehicle needs to maintain temperature, these figures simply are never published.
specific
The design of a mechanical airfloil blade is far more complex. The fan designer will be given criteria to work to in that they will know how much airflow is required for various water temperatures at the radiator, they will also know from the manufacturer the surface areas of the radiator and its efficiency, the complexity comes in at what engine revolutions this design has to allow for;
example, you may be doing 100kph in 4th gear at 2500rpm and your engine cooling system needs "X" cubic meters per second for satisfactory cooling while an identical vehicle along side you is in 5th gear and while needing the same CMS is only reving at 2000rpm. It could be argued that the 2500rpm motor is working harder than the one in 5th gear and would need greater cooling but thats not always the case and that variable is only part of the problem and equasion.
Consequently engine driven fan blades are designed for a far greater efficiency over a greater rev range. Yes, they do draw greater power from the engine than an after market electric fan will require but the electric fan will never be able to move the same amount of air as the driven fan will. The solution to this loss of power is the viscous coupling, its only in operation when its needed, that said I have a locking plate to give permanent drive to mine as I know that on over 45 degree C days if I use the A/C system my engine will experience a 15 degree temperature rise, with the fan locked and running full time this rise is reduced to a more acceptable 5 degrees, I can only put this abnormality down to the condenser fans inadvertantly cooling the bi-metalic coil on the viscous drive
Always when I read a post like this I feel like such a novice even though I have been spannering on Land Rovers for almost 20yrs
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I know those trackers and the housings, not through stealing cars but a good friend of mine was having marital issues and bought one on Amazon to put on his wives car, worked too, found out that she was working part time as a receptionist and part time as some other guys play thing.
If his car was S/H and not long owned then who knows what history it has had?
Deffo worth a look under yours to see what's what though, never can be too careful and all that.
Edit to add.
The tracker was a Garmin model if that helps.
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Barry, I went as far as to email them a video of how bad the motor fit was in the housing, even got the verniers out to show the 2mm difference in the motors, had rather a lot on my plate within my rebuild at that particular point in time and just put it down to a miss fitting part, it is the fact that the timing chest is in bits currently as I am busy with the seals and gaskets to try and cure some of the leaks, the supplier was "certain" they had genuine gaskets in stock but turned out not to be genuine but I thought to myself "no chance they could get a card gasket wrong", wanted spare drive flange gaskets to go in my spares box and picked them up too, now waiting to be hurt by LR Belgium for genuine gaskets, the seals I bought were genuine from LR and I suppose I should have just ordered the gaskets at the same time.
Just seems rather unsettling that for so many years I had good quality parts from them and now everything is s4!t and the suppliers are getting very nervous of me when I start to complain, I do get instant refunds now or exchange for genuine at no extra cost, it's not that I spend an awful lot of money with them but when the temper flairs it can get rather messy rather quickly!!
If I still have the video I will post it up.
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I have had a couple of problems recently within the build of Rusty and that was some very randomly punched holes in gaskets, a bagged set of drive flange gaskets that were thinner than A4 copy paper for 3 of them and one that was cut from a cornflake packet by the thickness, then dare I mention the new "direct replacement" heater blower motor for the ventilation, it comes pre-assembled with the resistor pack spot welded to the motor casing, problem there is that the Discover 1 200Tdi ventilation air box requires the motor to be a friction fit in a cylindrical plastic housing, so, you have to mutilate the motor housing to get the resistor mount off only to find that the motor casing is of a smaller diameter than the hole it goes in, no sending it back as you mutilated it to get it to fit, it has to be shimmed in place with strips of tin and adhesive sealant, then we get to the resistor pack, oh my, barely 2/3 the size of the genuine one and badly crimped connections and not a drop of solder on any of the joints, the converter cable taped to the box was very good quality as the original component is for a RRC I believe and requires this converter cable to make it fit the Disco.Most are probably aware that I have been very neutral about BP and stood up for them for parts that I had in the past and stood up for the warranty, paff, the warranty means s4!t all as they do not respond to your emails and when they do they don't actually do anything about the problems. The contact I had there before has bailed and moved over to Bearmach.Just my most recent experiences.
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Seems logical to me to, although any electrical system can be a bit overwheming as a whole. So break it down into parts
I find it helps to first work out the best place for your fuseboxes/modules/components, then just think about one circuit at a time. Run each cable but dont fix it permanently until you are all done and happy with it. Try to take into account what vehicle mods you might make later and take them into account with your routing.
That way, if you make a mistake, you can change it easily
Agree with this entirely!!!
I have a whole separate loom to make up from the aux battery to the new components going into the build so will be following this closely as a guide to what your doing.
Feel free to post up pics as you begin the wiring in your build thread
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The first three layers of mat on once this has cured I can add the other bits then lots of filling and sanding.
Mike
Thats just wrong how you can make it look so perfect
I always end up with air bubbles and wear aprox 50% of the resin, I admire the skill there Mike.
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Surely if the police were equipped with RPG's then they could remove both driver and vehicle simultaneously, this would help to solve overcrowding of the roads, lack of housing and also help to restore the health of the gene pool for future generations.
If ever there was a helping hand for Darwin this was it LOL
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I enjoyed my drive around Belgium this evening, apart from the satnav in the Viano taking us right through the center of Brussels it was pleasant, right up until we got to our destination, took the X-rays and programmed autosnelweg into the bloomin navigation that I found out how F'ing tedious it is to drive at 90kph due to "SMOG control" on the routes surrounding Brussels, it wasn't other car drivers as the Viano can stack any of them for acceleration and tops out at 170, but for the life of me I fail to see why there is a need for rush hour speed reduction to 90kph when all it does is cause an enormous back log of traffic!!!
Sorry, I just came to the conclusion that vehicular lighting was optional on these "modern" cars
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Nige, BTW if your doing a LOT of fording, obtain a differential bango fitting and drill and tap the top of the timing cover to give it a breather once the fording plug is fitted, the instant cooling of the cover once you enter the water can result in water being sucked into the cover through the front seal.
Been pondering the breathing of the timing case as have only seen the extended breather that fits the circular plate for the FIP and as this is where the tension/idler pulley for the A/C goes I was wondering what to do about a breather?
Worry not Snagger, I went off the idea of electric after the steep learning curve of intercooler efficiency and how the intercooler needs the extra air drawn through it at all times to reduce intake temps!
While the viscous coupling is off I will be sure to make the locking plate up to go in my spares box along with the plate for removing the steering wheel. Good call there
200Tdi intake manifold bolt/blank
in Discovery Forum
Posted
Looking for the size of the bolt/blank that is in the middle of the intake manifold on a 200Tdi Disco, if you are looking at the engine from the side of the injector pump it is staring you in the face, not the ones holding the manifold to the block!
If anyone knows the thread size for it please?