Nigelw
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Posts posted by Nigelw
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Depending on exactly what sort of things you are looking to do with it, why not build one?
When I used to work in earth moving the welder had a couple of motorized ones he made for using when rebuilding and hard facing, he also built one for me for when I was building up bucket teeth for the 365 CAT in the rock quarry, old teeth with scammel leaf springs cut and welded on, got interesting to handle them after a few passes circa 200A so he built me a positioner I could rotate and pin at 45° increments. Made building up teeth faster and safer, not to mention a heck of a lot more comfortable too.
Just an idea.
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Over here they like to scrape the paint off and expose the chassis number in bare metal to ensure chassis is as it should be, and due to the chassis number now being bare metal, unless you paint it again quick smart then expect 3 to 5 years rnning and then get a red card for the chassis number not being legible, then you have to get approved duccumentation from LR that they stamped the number back on the chassis, normally costing around €150 and a re-test, not to mention time of course!!! I re-painted and waxed it to protect it again and will do the same every year.
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Looks like a recon LT77 it is then.
So far there seems to be precious little in it between them but a lot of money in terms of outright purchase when compared with simple exchange.
Think I'll just do the clutch first and wait for whirring noises to tell me it's time to cange it.
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Is it actually illegal to buy and sell veicle identifications?
Silly question I know but tis is all based on the assumption that they are bought and sold to ring stolen cars and to sell on to some unwitting imbercile the ID so that the entire stolen car turned a profit and some unsuspecting buyer builds a car based on the ID then looses it to the old bill as it represents the one stolen 5yrs previous.
Any reasons to be for or against the prosecution for selling a vehicle IDs?
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Is the difference big enough to warrant paying the extra surcharges on outright purchase of an R380 from Ashcrofts or am I as well to just stick another LT77 in my Rusty?
Apart from reverse now being on the other side of the gate, is there any noticable difference between the two?
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If I see Emmerson again while he is over on his hols I will try and grab a picture of it, but it looked to be a one piece two belt pulley with a "V" on the back and a serp on the front for the alternator that was mounted above it.
Just wondering if it was two pulleys bolted on to the PAS shaft now though?
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Alternator drive pulley that is bolted onto the PAS pump on a RRC LSE 4.2 circa 1994, it is a multi v pulley that drives the alt on the front of the PAS pulley which was a V belt.
Sorry to seem vague but it was both late and getting dark. The tensioner was a threaded rod and bracket affair not a half moon plate if that helps?
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Been looking into the transit plates and they seem to be the best bet, in countries such as Belgium the plates have to be given back and do not belong to the vehicle at all like they do in the UK so the transit plates are a blessing to enable safe export of vehicles from here that have been de-registered, the de-registration means you no longer pay tax on the plates assigned to the car and subsequent owners have to register it in their name and go through the hassles of actually getting it registered.
If you were to have them fitted and all correct paper work in place allocating them to that vehicle then the onus would be on them to prove that those plates were illegal surely? As you have said, they are EU transit plates so they are valid in any EU member state including the UK.
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I checked drive belt tension and it was true, belt was if anything a tad slack for me personally.
forgot to mention it's a 4.2 LSE, it has an abundance of electricals as standard.
Both alternators failed in the exact same way just one covered 2000 miles and the replacement a mere 25 before failing.
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Helping a good friend who is caravaning in Europe this season and he fitted a new alternator 6weeks ago and had done roughly 2000miles on it.
He said it as driving along happily and then out of nowhere the alternator started howling and there was a burning smell acompanied by the charge light on the dash, rescued by ADAC and taken to a campsite close by to be repaired, had another brand new alternator shipped from the UK and fitted it, less than 25miles driving and the same thing happened again.
I went over to help them with a dodgy starter motor and to look over the alternator and checked the alternator output and it was barely 1.1V and howling like a banshee.
Incidentally when swapping the starter over the power feed terminal sheared off when going to undo the terminal, there seemed to be very little connection if this makes any difference I really don't know.
Have sourced a known good one from a forum friend in Hoegarden to get and try and sort them out but not wanting to fit the new second hand alternator only for the same to happen again.
any ideas?
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That is hilarious, is the profile of a Hi-Lux so difficult to replicate in tube or they never heard of safety devices
:hysterical: Wonder what the reserve is??????
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Investigating over.
Badly corroded discs, will suggest new set of front and back with new pads to the owner, I really have not the time to do them so will be passing up on putting new ones on it.
Thanks for your replies.
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Some may know about the project truck I have had at my place for some weld repairs, well, all done now and looks good and at least it is safe to be on the road now.
I thought I'd take it for a drive and get it up to temp and give it a blast to blow the cobwebs out after standing idle at my place for a couple months now.
I put my foot on the brakes, they were a bit rubbish but figured they'd be a bit rusted so a few hard stamps to clean the discs up and I had the most horrific feed back through the pedal, like it was surging back pressure or something.
Can anyone enlighten me as to what it might be?
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Sorry Barry, been a week at home alone and thrusting is playing on my mind
Yep thats the one and yes nearly forgot the bush, see, hence my thrusting issue
Tidy little sum that lot(avoiding certain brands of course)
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Thanks for that Richard and Allan, will be ordering parts next week and waiting for the house move at the end of next month so I have more free time to do it in.
Current list of parts.
Borg & Beck clutch kit,
HD thrust bearing,
gaskets for the bellhousing to gearbox and fly wheel housing to engine,
Oil seals for crank and TXbox output shafts.
Should see me out of mischief for a while
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Is it not possible to get hold of a trader with trade plates to stick on it for the journey from the ferry? Or have I really been out of the UK for so long
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I was considering the crank seal but hadn't planned to pull the engine out just drop the boxes off the back and support the front end but wonder if it might be better to make a propper job of it an pull the engine out completely and allow 2days for it?
An Dave, the bite point is the same as it as when I got it running for the first time a year and a half ago, it's only been my daily drive for about 2 an half months, figure better sorted sooner rather than letting it fail further and become a real problem when I need it the least.
what about the input gear from the main box to the TX box? I presume that is just a normal M20 nyloc as there are no holes in the shaft for cotter pins so guessing a castle nut is not in there?
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Was looking but can't find the exploded diagram now
but I made bolts from thread rod for an "A" bar fitment, very cheap and morethan up to the job unless you're going ram-raiding of course -
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No stranger to getting stuck in but now that Rusty is the daily driver I need a handle on what I need for this job before I break it apart!!!
Clutch pedal has 1/2" off the bottom of the stroke before it bites so guessing it's about cooked and that crunchy 2nd gear has got to go on the main box!!!
I have a good spare LT77 but no transfer case or bell housing so will need to be swapping them over.
Questions are, what else am I going to need apart from a clutch kit?
Any potential pitfalls I need to be aware of before I break it out?
What about the refitting of my old transferbox on the new second hand gearbox? Any setting up to do or how does that go?
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Normally we all say "what have they done to it?" But in this case seems to be more, "what didn't they do to it".
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Mrs. Nigelw lives in Weert, I travel up the night before my day off, in Belgium roads to the Dutch border there are 3 gatso's, over the border and only 47 of my 102km trip there are 14, the ring road in Weert has them everywhere! And now the majority is turning to these fancy average speed type cameras so even having a Coyote is becoming pointless
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Tick over 2nd gear is 20kph in my Disco.
Don't panic, it is not just Spain getting tighter, I got 2 speeding tickets from Holland last month so sending them over the borders is already here!
It is all in aid of the purse, don't be fooled by pleadges of safety concerns, the horse world is getting a right hammering right now from official bodies, no competition bans as a means of ensuring they get their houses in order, just fines on the spot, wonders never cease, how creative will they get to relieve us of our cash I wonder?
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Right, now I'm confused, why is it that the parking switch does not work on continuous settings but works happily on the intermittent setting?
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Super, thanks for that link in particular Mike as I also need to install a lights on warning relay too and that reminded me
:hysterical: 
but I made bolts from thread rod for an "A" bar fitment, very cheap and morethan up to the job unless you're going ram-raiding of course 
Fairy Powerspray Alert !
in International Forum
Posted
Lidl's kitchen degreaser works good too, in an orange bottle here but I am a fan of Cilit bang too.