-
Posts
2,571 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
15
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by Nigelw
-
-
Anyone come across this suspension before?
Random vid off the tube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ju8DIVbKNM0
Discuss.
-
My hero, thought that was what you meant but I have blocked sinuses and a thick head ever so much more than usual
I would have preferred the newer reg of the 110 TBH though,
-
I'm not sure that it is is it? I'm pretty sure there was a discussion on this in the international forum on the thread discussing HFHs v8 rad. Some of the more knowledgeable chaps suggested that heat transfer was more efficient in a copper rad.
With the whole uprated rad thing, I'm of the opinion that unless you have a highly tuned truck that is overheating as a result of lack of a standard rad cooling capacity, then there is no point spending money on the 'uprated' ones. In a way, I have kind of proven this for myself by wasting a bit of money fitting an uprated heavy duty (4 core) rad from M&D to my mildly tuned 200tdi. It has made bugger all difference to the cooling. But, then it wasn't overheating before, so why would it?! I guess I just potentially have more cooling capacity that I probably won't need anyway!
My disclaimer was "I am told" but then again it could be that I read it in one of the comics that I subscribe to.
I always thought the 200Tdi over cooled a lot of the time even with the standard rad.
-
I got busted as I sat and watched all 10 vids on the tube, when I should have been moving the horses
Oh well, very much worth every minute of it though!
Good work, and really liked the diff pegging vid, explained so much
-
It might make it a legal vehicle, but it is still an early 110, but if that vehicle was scrapped, no it isn't!
Please explain more Bowie, am a bit thick this morning and re-read that 10X and still not understanding
-
I read it as being built on an early 90s chassis rather than being done in the early 90s.
For you Ross
Custom Land Rover Series 2 109 LWB hard top.1970"J" Historic free tax. Nato green .Later rot free ex Military bulkhead and seat box. Excellent Coil sprung early 110 chassis, early 110 axles ( Salisbury with drum rears).750X16 radial tyres on standard steel rims. Later doors with trims & wind up windows a few dents but no rot. New exhaust and battery. Polly bushed. Alloy checker plate rear tub floor. Recent new PAS box, Later steering coulomb , wheel and fittings. Defender 200 TDi plus Lt 77 5 speed gearbox. Late Series/early Defender seats in black. 2"x1" box section sills. Bottom dash has been altered but I have an original to go with vehicle. Dixon Bate Adjustable tow hitch with NATO jaw (standard ball available). Built early 90`s. Fully lined sides and roof so no drumming or drips. Paint work could be improved but you don`t have to worry about marking or polishing as it is. I bought it to use myself but I have been let down on the sale of my 110 and the 109 has been sat round more than used. It has lots of potential to improve or just use "as is". OFFERS WITHOUT FIRST CONTACT WILL BE IGNORED. Phone up to 8pm 07831 106605 or email through ebay. Cash on collection or direct bank transfer prior to collection.UK Mainland only No shipping. -
They just dropped the price to €260, but €26,000 would have seemed about right to Snoop Doggy Dogg, or Justin Trousersnake.
-
Grind it out a bit more. if your tyres are not abashing your arches to bits then don't fit the extended BSs as they are there to limit upward travel in the suspension.
-
God knows but 42mm is wider than a standard rad so it is possible also I am told Aluminium is a better material for heat exchange.
But I am a little lost on the cost.
£200 is a little bit cheap me thinks!
-
You could actually live in that thing not just overland in it!!!!
But wonder what the fuel consumption is like around town
-
Which just means it is a licence to rob people, NZ has better idea on that front!
Compulsory here too, and they are happy to rob you equally.
-
Thought I would resurrect this thread
I used to be and still am dieseldog on Landy forums, had nothing to do with cars or trucks but a name given to me by a girl I used to know, I worked in heavy plant and we used to hook up when I was working in her area, somehow I always smelled of diesel and that's how it came to be.
so what about some of the other newbies out there?
-
Looked them on the google images and one says 200Tdi an another says 2.5N/A diesel but they do look very different parts.
-
For these types of things go genuine, I am sorry to say that I have had experiences with brand new "pattern part" brake pipes bursting, oil cooler pipes with the wrong thread sizes and the list goes on, I will just point out that not all of those parts were from Britpart either!
The price difference is small enough not to worry about and it will give you a warm fuzzy feeling to know that what you have bought is guaranteed to fit and will last as long as the pipes you are about to replace.
-
Not so happy to read this as I just bought a full set of Pro Sport shocks for my Disco
Needs must as they are all about shot and need replaced for the safety test, just means I have to factor in the upgrade to high end Koni's sooner rather than later
Although I must admit I have not heard anything bad about them other than this post, and have heard more horror stories from OME shocks failing!
Keep us posted on what you get back from them on the warranty front.
-
Been looking at a couple of other bits I want for my truck and as Christmas/Birthdays are coming up I thought I'd get her to get me something functional but practical.
The functional is that extra lighting is always a bonus!!!
The practical is that it would afford a little more strength to the front door/screen pillars. I found this on the bay a while ago and liked the idea of a small frame/windscreen hoop far more than a gutter mounted light bar and way more than a full on roof rack. What do others think?
And another odd question, where seems to be the most common/popular place for people to run the cabling for the roof lights? New hole in the roof or in the top of the door and down the inside of the screen pillar?(not a preferred method just one I have seen else where)
Ideas and suggestions please.
-
I agree with Dunc, but I would not have removed the LPG, if had ran fine on LPG but stopped I would have been looking for an electrical problem with the change over switching and fuel solenoids, I had the change over relays sticking on gas once the tanks were empty and wouldn't switch back,2X €3.99 relays and away we went again.
-
I would look at the fuel pump relays in the drivers side foot well, there should be power to the pump with the ignition on, that should explain the click in the foot well, but also check the fuse for the pump, and the terminal plug in the wiring loom under the rear left corner of the truck, there is a 3 pin connection there that can sometimes let moisture in and corrode the terminals.
if there is spark then it is not ignition but fuel related as there is often high pressure in the fuel rail even after the ignition is turned off, it may even be a faulty pump.
-
I vote back door, although I did see a really nice fab job on a 200Tdi Disco where the guy had sunk it into the bumper, but you probably have a 300Tdi and the lights will be in the way?
-
Also available from Ashcrofts
-
I must admit the only thing that does give me confidence is the claim that it will not emulsify and continue to lubricate even if contaminated with water/moisture, can anyone substantiate that claim?
-
Does anyone here have experience of Redline synthetic lubricants?Good or bad, it just helps me to find people who have actually used it and can share their honest experiences.It seems to be only a little more expensive than mineral oils but wonder if it would balance out long term with extended service intervals? Say 8,000Kms as opposed to 5,000Kms engine and say 30,000kms over 20,000 for axles, gearbox and transfer box.Or just stick with mineral oils and be done with it?
-
You see I was thinking along the lines of a separate cooling rad or tube for the O/D but I was struggling to find a pump that would cope with EP90 as the only current O/D on the market shares the same oil as the transfer box then that will have to do, now if that O/D were to be sealed away from the transfers EP90 and running a ATF then for me it could well be as simple as a pump being engineered off the back of the O/D to a reservoir very similar to what we have with power steering fluid reservoirs and a cooler tube in front of the rad same as an auto, then you have a volume of fluid and a heat ex-changer built in to the system, the pumping could be temp triggered by a thermostat with bypass valve or simply flow when ever the O/D is running.
I suppose the cooler subject is a wide open field as it could be a plate and fin arrangement with an electric fan to boost cooling when driving long gradients where it is not necessary to change down but also hard going on the O/D.
Bit of fodder to keep you going
-
You know I saw things the whole other way around about 8 or 9yrs ago.
Devils pit Barton-le-clay, chilly October morning, couldn't help but admire the most tricked up truck I had ever seen in person, a 90 with ALL the kit, Scorpion extreme orange everything and shiny as you liked, two hours later I watched the same guy going away in an ambulance and his (well what was left of it!) truck going away on the back of a wrecker later on, turned out he built it to go off road but had never really done anything more than a little light laning and when he unleashed this thing he did so with gusto thinking it was taking on all challenges, well it was him doing a long climb with axle twisters in it that threw him, apparently he stalled it and didn't know what to do, panicked and ended up rolling it down the hill.
It was his inability that lead to his down fall but his well prepared truck that got him up that high in the first place.
There is a lesson in there somewhere but fked if I know where to look, maybe you can work it out?
Terrafirma shocks Pro sport ?????
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
I have something to add to this, after showing this thread to my supplier last night he has given me a 50,000Km ni quibble warranty on the pro sport I ordered with him, and yes it was 50,000Kms and not any time frame of yrs or months.
So on my side customer service seems to be well up and above the rest![;)](//content.invisioncic.com/r226025/emoticons/default_wink.png)