Nigelw
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Posts posted by Nigelw
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Right been whirring this around in my pea sized brain and so far all I can find is planetary geared O/Ds available, so it seems the flaw we have found with them is that they cook the oil in the transfer box rapidly and then seek to self destruct once they have ruined the oil, now is there any other problem with them other than the cooking of the oil?
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You obviosuly have a nice oil leak free engine......
I wish but mine seems to be coming from just about every possible gasket or seal, after it has been fully degreased I will know more of where the oil is coming from but too much other stuff to be getting along with before I get to that point.
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Speedo/transducer drive is sort of a pass-through arrangement, you still have a cable coming up to the dash:
http://landroverparts.roversnorth.com/Products.aspx?code=821&key=cat
Not on my 300Tdi series Disco, there is nowhere on the back of the dash panel to put a cable in.
Possibly a 200Tdi would have used the same such through driven transducer like this one for use with the cruise control system?
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That would depend on what gearbox and speedo drive indicator system you have? I am lead to believe(which means I don't know this first hand!) that road speed was indicated by the transducer off the gearbox if it was a digital and not cable operated type, 200Tdi were cable from T-box to speedo head, and 300Tdi was cable to transducer and signal from transducer to CC ECU and then on to instrument binnacle.
Oh and if you can write a description of your vehicle in your signature we may be able to help faster as opposed to guessing and then having to ask you for information to help us help you, just saying like
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Cut and pasted from my build thread
So I have gone with the speedi-sleeve route as my first attempt to see if I can help others find a cheaper solution to the dreaded leaky steering box, now in hind sight(such a wonderful thing is hind sight
) I should have actually ordered the size smaller sleeve due to this shaft obviously having seen a sheet of emery cloth before now but hey ho, the size for the shaft is 32mm I got a 32mm sleeve but really would have been better off getting the 31.75 to give a better friction fit, live and learn hey but I have fitted the sleeve with a lock and seal compound so it should not move once cured, I had originally wanted to go down the route of grinding and building up but for the benefit of others I have chosen to explore other avenues to see what can be done and how cheaply it can be done too, so I had built the box up ready for a refinished shaft to be fitted.
So before I could begin it was a case of removing the circlip, dust shield and seal retainer washer, and then the seal, once out the shaft could be refitted and with a good wipe around with acetone to clear off any grease or oil back to bare metal, when burnt off a cotton bud dipped in the lockseal can be wiped around the area the sleeve will sit.
Then basically just reassemble the seals and dust sheild/retaining washer and circlip and wait for tomorrow to fit it, the lockseal should have cured by then.
Let us see how long this repair lasts shall we
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I take you didn't machine anything off the shaft in the end?
Not this time, but I am looking for another
victimresearcher for another type of repair, worth investigating possibilities further for this as it is a common problem and often the only available solution is to go down the expensive replacement route, whether that be a reconditioned box with no guarantee or a brand new box from Adwest.See how long this one lasts for first I suppose
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Don't know if anyone wants post a photo as I feel I am missing out on something here
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Right I can confirm the speedi-sleeve is of the 32mm flavor and is now fitted, I removed the new seals I had fitted and refitted the shaft, as it has been empty of oil for a week now the shaft was just wiped over with acetone and a smear of locktite thread seal on the shaft, the sleeve needed a little persuasion but went into place just nicely, fit the new seals and now waiting for the locktite to go hard before I fill it with oil. I was tempted to just knock it up as far as the bearings but me being me I kept testing it with the seal to see how it fitted and to be honest I don't know how far off the bearings it is as I forgot to look and was just happy to re-assemble the steering box.
So it goes like this.
Speedi-sleeve in 32mm diameter and a 31.75 is available too should you need a tighter fitting sleeve.
Will keep you guys posted on how long it lasts, will post some photos of it too when I can find the lead for my camera
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I always found myself torn between my own inner desire to push the boundaries and the well taught lessons from working on the farm, when I worked on a small mixed farm money was always tight and there just was not surplus funds for coverage of damages due to incompetence or negligence so you learned that everything has to drive another day and the more land covered the less costs and profits meant possibly newer machinery at the end of the year, and I learned that through driving sensibly I could do more P&P days and laning each year as I was not busy fixing it or short of cash after replacing broken parts.
I suppose I now just want to be able to do more in my own truck than I did with the series, in a sense I am not building a challenge truck just one that will go where I want without breaking anything, and if I do get over ambitious then I want the means to get myself back out of the muddle.
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Off Road wise, my series 3 is pretty much standard,
okay, it has a 200Tdi, disk brakes on the front and parabolic springs, but in terms of axles, tyres, im pretty much standard, and on par flex wise with a standard coiler with +2 shocks
A set of 235/85 goodyear wranglers, is all i have in terms of extra grip from standard, these are by no means extreme, but i still manage to do pretty well, better than those on 35 and 37" tyres in some situations, the following being a pretty good example (the blue series 3 pickup in these)
especially as i tug out a hilux from a ditch only afterwards realising i left it in 2 wheel drive...
and finally this rather amusing video just shows how a 6L diesel, twin lockers and 37" tyres arent all that, especially if you dont know how to use it!!!
so basically, my point, along with others, is dont go straight for the million inch lift and 80" tyres, learn to drive first, the old saying is very apt aswell,
go as slow as you can but as fast as you need.
Watching those vids brought back many a fond memory of my old LWB with it's 2.6 6cyl petrol engine and doing a few lanes and a couple of P&P days with it when it still had Avon Rnage Master tyres that were 3 parts worn out LOL then a new set of General SAG radials came when I knew what it's capabilities were with rubbish rubber on, OK that was a lot more tame than what I did with my first RRC 4 door, but then again my circumstances changed the mud plugging RRC with it's 35" tyres went as I got married and grew up, the series came back as a toy/hobby, but a series as you will know is a far cry from a RRC hence why I got to know how it went properly, it never did get anything more than the SAGs and just well maintained, it simply did everything I asked of it straight out of the tin
Going to be a lot more adventurous with my Discovery hence the rather more extensive mods being devised.
But seriously want to thank you for the last vid of the purple one getting a little urm...... cross eyed shall we say
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Welcome to the forum
Oooh! an overlander
Few questions if I might?
What prep have you done to your truck to ensure it will stay reliable for your trip?
What is going to be your rolling curb weight full load?
How far have you gone with armor and recovery packaging?
Sorry, become some what of a pet hobby of mine of late, this and vapor builds
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Biggest piece of advice I will give is to label every single connector and section of loom as you unplug and remove it, I used a DYMO labeler to do mine when I pulled the old V8 apart for salvage/scrap. One the same as http://global.dymo.com/nlBE/Products/LetraTag_LT-100H.html
Be sure to keep absolutely everything from the Disco until you have finished the Defender build.
If you are wanting to use as much of the Disco loom as possible then build the 90 as a shell with bulk head and body in place (a rolling chassis with axles and drive line in place is great but might give access hassles and is not strictly necessary) then try to position as much of the loom in the right places, this is where labeling saves you lots of time when you know what every plug is for
Once you have everything in position you will know how much you have to modify it to fit your application.Be sure to do a build thread in the members vehicles fora too.
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No I don't actually. It's just something that I've always understood - something to do with the bobweights moving some part which quits sending pulses to the coil. I presume later models with ignition amps etc would implement it differently.
Anyone else care to shed some light?
[awaiting someone to tell me I'm talking out of my arse]
Never knew how it worked just knew it had one!
Now as far as a GEMS engine goes than that must be ECU controlled as it is dizzy-less and as for overcoming any limitations I think by squirting/jolting you could get round that issue, not so sure I would want to though TBH!!!
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Can't help with the problem but if your bosses decision is causing you pain at work then pass it back to him. If it affects your ability to get to clients then that is his problem not yours!
Maybe my own circumstance has coloured my view but after eight years of saving my company from themselves I was the one who got shafted!
Marc.
I know exactly what you are saying there!! I am actually the yard man and horse wrangler here, the van is a perk of my position, it has been great most of the time but just lately this faffing about has gotten ridiculous, this morning no problem at all started and went about it's job happily, just went to the bakery for cream cakes for afternoon tea and stuck at the bakery whilst it decided to die on me.
The glow plug relay (and its light) might be triggered by the ECU so it would be worthwhile checking the wiring digram to see if thats the case. Many cars with EDC use the glowplug light as more of an "engine management light" than an actual glowplug indicator, thus it not coming on at all could point directly at the ECU, rather than the glowplug system.
Sort of ties in with all your guages dying too, again see if they're driven by the ECU or directly. If its direct, it points to some sort of vehicle wide power issue, perhaps a bad earth or a bad main power relay if it has one. If its ECU then again it points at a bad ECU, or bad powersupply to the ECU.
I pulled the temp sender plug today and reaction to that was the fan suddenly came on as though it was over heating even with the horrendous knocking from the engine, think I need a few hours with my soldering iron and some easy listening music tonight, or I am gonna finish welding my Disco up and put my vans reg plates on that for driving around! How bad can this be really
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Currently I am afraid to say that after the last fiasco that has been going on with our service garage regarding a Land Cruiser with air suspension issues, a Mercedes ML with a split intercooler pipe and "O" ring pressure sensor issue and now the Mercedes Viano has an unknown fault after going in to have new brake linings, I have absolutely no faith in them what so ever, my van went in to them to have the glow plug relay changed and a new set of front shocks, and it was missing in action for a week, needed a new FIP about a year ago and was again missing in action but this time for over 3 weeks, would rather try and find a solution myself, and no my boss will not use another garage either as the owner is a client of our practice.
Oh well.
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Sorry not Landy related but tonight this has gotten so badly on my t*ts!!!
I have a works van a Peugeot Partner, 1.9 diesel, great thing does 75MPG all day, but it has a problem.
Problem being that it has some sort of EDC, now normally no problem as long as it runs, running seems to be the issue, now starting can be an issue too.
If I get in it and try to start it in the morning sometimes the glow plug light will not illuminate, no click of the relay nothing, now turning it on and of a few times can resolve this and it will start and away we go, but this week it has been an unholy whooore of a thing and it has started this mallarky whilst driving along, what happens is, suddenly the engine noise becomes a deafening rattle, the water temp needle drops off the gauge and the tacho needle lies dormant at the bottom of the dial too, same procedure, pull over turn ignition off and on a few times until the glow plug lamp comes on and drive on, but driving my GF to work now involves starting and stopping at least twice on a 12Km drive!!!
The glow plug relay was replaced a few months ago and sort of solved it when it happened before, now question is.
Does anyone know anything about these things so I can stop pulling my hair out?
This stems from wanting a brew after a bit of welding and having run out of milk, seriously hacked off now
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Lol Nigel, appologies for that
I am actually thinking now that Bowies idea is a better one as it will lower your low ratio to, you could still add an overdrive if you wished
Time to do some ratio calcs
Now I am getting it a little better, the R&P swap to a more doable 4.12 would bring things back in line nicely and then add a GKN O/D(not to mention a little bit of fabrication for the back of the transmission tunnel
) and the bigger sump with cooling fins and I think it could be much more livable in the long run, could even slip the R&Ps in the order when I get the Ashcroft lockers and they can be fitted to the lockers too so just need bolting in, oooh, this is sounding better by the minute, now just need to convince SWMBO that the lockers have gone up by another £200 and jobs a good'un -
Rev limiter???
He runs a 3.9 V8 EFI, they have one of them
Exactly right with the wiring up of the lights, it allows a path of greater current and a lot less resistance in providing power to the lamps and just turns the feed from the switch into a trigger wire to the relay.
I actually disagree with the tyre subject but it is often a matter of personal opinion, I watched many green lanes get TRO'd with the help of mud junkies and their aggressive tyres churning them up as it was too long to wait for the next P&P day, and therefore I would say it was wise to match the tyre to the application, if it is too slippery and rough going on a green lane for a set of A/T tyres then you really shouldn't be driving them, also I would not advocate nipping out and fitting some road rubber to visit P&P sites.
I suppose it would be more dependent on how experienced the OP was in driving off road as to whether he would be taking chances driving in areas where he was not suitably equipped tyre wise, but this can also be said for those that get busy fitting winches and the like without first realizing that perhaps there is a better route that does not require them, I would say it better to learn how it handles off road with A/T tyres and learn what your own capabilities are before sizing up a set of MAXXIS boggers, sometimes it is better to get stuck early on than getting into bigger difficulties where getting back out can be even harder.
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You'd be better off with the 1.4 transfer box, which will take an overdrive, and lower ratio diffs like 4.1 or even 4.74. Especially easy if your Disco is old enough to take a pair of diffs straight out of a SII/SIII (ie 10 spline diffs). The lower diffs will take some of the strain out of the gear box and od. They'd also reduce the ratio in low range as well as in high, which would help with the effects of the tyres.
Bugger
I moved away from 10spline on grounds of strength and fitted my axles out with everything from my old 24 spline axles.CW just gave me something to think about with a new 1.410 gear set from ashcrofts, could be interesting to rebuild the T/box completely when it comes off for a new clutch as I think this one is on it's way out.
Anyway, going back outside to do some more welding and think about the options even further before I commit her money into buying more toys for my truck
FF totally get what you are saying there, good food for thought! As well as the Maxidrive stuff, should keep me google happy when I get in later
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Maybe the gearset from ashcrofts would be worthwhile then? http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=176
What did you just do CW???
Here we go again, guess my GF will be very happy with my Christmas wish list, it goes along the lines of
http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=154
http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=176
http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=8
http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=138
http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=231
And then I have to ask nicely for a new clutch and then convince her that ours needs doing so I can rebuild the transfer box, either that or I could be single and poor but have a nice running truck
Although incidentally, did you see my post on Bills vapordrive project for a 1.66 final and an O/D? Wonder what that would be like to drive with?
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I am finding this very thought invoking due to having fitted 32" tyres over the 29" originals, (although there is a picture somewhere in my build thread showing the comparison of new tyres to old and it looks much more than a 3" difference) and while I am thinking great for giving it legs on the highway I actually found the low range to be a lot higher geared than I thought.
I think my own compromise would be in going outside the two choices of 1.2 or 1.4 and actually have a 1.6 and an over drive strong enough to cope with my driving.
My own thinking behind that is that I get a lot more control and slower speed when I need it and also get sensible high range gearing for towing or just bumpy tracks, but then I really would need an O/D and so far we have not yet found the greatest solution to this issue.
Now this being solely vapor I am not happy as it has given me far too much to think about, and not being an engineer or having anything more than a basic empty barn with a few primitive hand tools I and a welder I am fairly sure I can't knock anything up but in my head I am cruising the 314 in 4 O/D at 120kph barely hitting 2100rpm
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You can have anything you want on Vapour threads.
That you can, but what I want to know is how we can convince you to stop sniffing the vapors and get into the workshop and knock something up
But I have been pondering this point you made Bill, why only 15% O/D opposed the 27% Fairey went with? Would it be to make the gear sets smaller diameter but wider ? Very curious of this?
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Could be that it needs removing and cleaning?
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Mine looks like this
And that is shod with 235/85-16 tyres and standard suspension, that was with only a slight bit of articulation, although I will be going for a 2" lift for no other reason than to give a little better clearance when articulating.
Here it is only compulsory for commercial vehicles to have mud flaps.
) I should have actually ordered the size smaller sleeve due to this shaft obviously having seen a sheet of emery cloth before now but hey ho, the size for the shaft is 32mm I got a 32mm sleeve but really would have been better off getting the 31.75 to give a better friction fit, live and learn hey but I have fitted the sleeve with a lock and seal compound so it should not move once cured, I had originally wanted to go down the route of grinding and building up but for the benefit of others I have chosen to explore other avenues to see what can be done and how cheaply it can be done too, so I had built the box up ready for a refinished shaft to be fitted.
Stepper motor
in Discovery Forum
Posted
Ah well bit of a caffudly dud when he has since asked where the speed sensor is.
And although yes the 3.9 was from 95MY> this is a Land Rover we are discussing here
I seen more mix and match on Land Rovers than any other POS automobileout there 
Still no idea where he is with his truck at this stage though