Nigelw
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Posts posted by Nigelw
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Maybe if they spent as much time and money re-building one as I have then they would not do such stupid things as to drive into a pond without first checking the depth.
I like the "no fear" attitude though, if they were in serious motor sport they could win a trophy or too for most spectacular fails and flips
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I'd agree too mike, but it could be a 90 transfer box too, they are the same ratio as a 110, except the very early ones which were 1.667.
I have not yet driven my truck on or off road yet and only really shunting it around the yard with a quick blast up the woods and back for a little bit of a shake down, and it does seem to be a little high geared when setting off in 1st and although once in motion it seems ok I would rather not be hunting a gear or too hard on the clutch when fully loaded and going up and down the hills.
The seller seems to be under the impression that the D2 had the 1.4 ratio T-box but I was sure it was 1.2 the same as I already have fitted, just wanted to be sure though and I think I might have to source one from the UK as anything with Discovery attached to its description is affordable but you put "Defender" in the sales description and the price triples
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I was offered one yesterday as the guy was also selling a Defender 1.4 box that I was interested in taking off his hands to mate to the LT77 I have sitting on my bench but it had already been sold, but he recently broke 2x D2s and has transmissions sitting there in his barn and he thinks they are the same ratios as a Defender 1.4 just wondering really as I think the 235/85 are going to raise the gearing on my Disco a bit too much for the 200Tdi TBH.
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What ratio are D2 transfer boxes and is there a difference between manual and auto?
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A 3 range transfer box would be an interesting proposition.
Initially I got excited by the idea and then reality came and smacked me in the mouth, as I am not sure there is a gearbox out there that would have suitable gearing to lend itself to being an actual splitter box in terms of mid range 1-2-3-4 split top 1-2-3-4, or could it be dome through the actual gearing within the transfer box itself?
Not sure if you would like to do some ratios for the mid and top boxes Bill as I think that might be a nice solution with maybe using an R380 as primary gearbox?
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Not a truck but check out the price on this piece of junk!!!
http://nl.kapaza.be/antwerpen/lasapparat-halfautomaat-decamig-412--76102942.htm
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I really want him to finish it but rarely see him on here, I had a spate of the mid project blues and sometimes life can just walk right in and take right over.
If you are watching this Will, please bring forth your beast into the light for us to see it again.
Or if you want, send it to me and I will dismantle and re-home anything that I consider not to be scrap
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Can of worms I am thinking
I am going to consult further with Kurt and Marc over this subject, probably a few beers in the café too. As engineers they should be able to fathom out the intricacies of whether or not building up would affect integrity of the shaft, would love to chrome it too but let's have some drinking and chatting over this subject to iron out the difficulties and finer details.
HOLY COW!!!
Brain fart time, grinding it back where the seal sits and fitting a sleeve to original diameter, then grind lip off the sleeve to original diameter, think I just worked it out for myself???????
Anyone think that is a good or bad idea?
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If they don't notice, it's all good
Perhaps you could do the honors elbekko??? After all I am a foreigner in your native land
They might be suspicious of the lack of a leak if anything? After all it is a Land Rover
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That's a very good point Bill, in the UK you're not allowed to weld certain steering components. I'm not sure if this extends to all steering components or what other processes are banned. Certainly worthy of some research, would also be a good idea for Nigel to check the rules in his neck of the woods.
Oh shizzle, here we go, this could take a while(cue random elevator music) and let me see if google translate can do better than last time with getting over the gumph in the legals here
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Possibly the need for over drives has been reduced greatly as modern new Land Rovers have a 6spd box, now getting your paws on one of them cookies might yield some more gears to play with Bill?
But I randomly wondered this a good while ago, why not make the transfer box 3 stage splits and synchro between mid and high? giving lots of options there to mix and match?
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I'd lob the dust seal and fit the oil lip seal part-way into the housing, so it ran on the good metal between the two wear paths.
The trouble with the dust seal is that the main seal is soft and the dust seal is the steel plate holding it back under pressure, I did think about that though.
Well decided to do some leg work on behalf of forum members who have hit this obstacle many times before to try and get a run down on what the costs/implications of each process are.
Will keep you all posted
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Ok lets look for chroming while I am out and about next week, I must admit, this turning up at different places asking for parts and services is doing wonders for my spoken Dutch, still getting flamed for writing in English on the Dutch forums though, but I always post a link to google translate for those that don't read English, seems only fair
I got a price of €15/each for the needle roller bearings for the shaft,so I am actually thinking along the lines of replace bearings on the shaft and fit sleeve if possible then fit into housing.
Not exactly got money to burn on this project but I am guessing that for the small costs in materials for each step I should only get as far as a recon box price, although chroming might whack the price a little but really would be worth it!!!
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Not much help to you in the UK but I know of local units with pits and one with a 4 post lift and around 200 m2 are going for €500-700pcm +utilities Not exactly pocket money and aimed more at a one man band mechanic I think. A local logging contractor wanted €300/month all in for around 50m2 when I was looking to take my Discovery off the farm to work on when we got busy but decided not to do that as would end up being too busy to work on it anyway so glad I didn't. On the subject of insurance I have a policy for each electrical appliance and a 4" grinder costs me €10/yr my MIG costs €35 and all my hand tools are bundle covered at €55, this is for damage to electricals and theft of any and all, think pay out is priced to replacement costs of tools and appliances.
Not sure if that helps to give you an idea?
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Forgot to add this is where I am at so far.
http://s1186.photobucket.com/user/dieseldog69/media/Rusty240913001_zps2909f631.jpg.html'>
New seal going in to the bottom.
http://s1186.photobucket.com/user/dieseldog69/media/Rusty240913009_zpse036563e.jpg.html'>
Seal retainer and dust seal going in.
http://s1186.photobucket.com/user/dieseldog69/media/Rusty240913011_zps5a1c2a53.jpg.html'>
And cirlip holding it all together.
http://s1186.photobucket.com/user/dieseldog69/media/Rusty240913016_zps4c898e12.jpg.html'>
The only thing I can see being a slight issue is that the vulcanized steel plate dust seal is quite a tight fit on the shaft but I gauged it and the sleeve should just slip under it.
http://s1186.photobucket.com/user/dieseldog69/media/Rusty240913003_zps106f700f.jpg.html'>
We'll find out when I get the sleeve to fit.
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There are a few places that do that process to motorcycle forks, and they weren't real silly money, was cheaper than the replacement parts.
I seem to remember a guy on here mentioning having the balls on his 101 front axle done and it not being silly expensive, now I am thinking on a whole new tack and wonder whether it would be worth a look into after the speedy sleeve and true costs for build up and grinding back?
Maybe not, this thing is costing me enough as it is!!!
Engineers tomorrow, see what they have in stock for me
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Should I be ashamed to say that I like it
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Ok looked into speedy sleeve and the only problem I can see with it is that the new sleeve would be thicker than the shaft slightly and would not pass back down through the needle rollers, so question is, could it be fitted the wrong way round so to speak?
Ie, could a new seal be fitted in the box and then the shaft refitted and then the speedy sleeve knocked up and under the new seal?
Or am I being too much like an old farmer in my thinking?
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Right, I do not essentially need this to be repaired as I have a brand new box under my bench, but after having 4 contradictory answers to this I want to throw this out to the masses.
This is a steering shaft from a 4 bolt PAS box, it can clearly be seen where the seal runs it has become pitted and perished the seal.
http://s1186.photobucket.com/user/dieseldog69/media/Rusty220913013_zps071e5307.jpg.html'>
Now I do not doubt CwazyWabbit one bit when he said to get it ground out, welded up and an a new sealing face on it with a cylindrical grinder, but 3 other people have uttered mention of hair line cracking, warping of the shaft and the likes so for all the actual engineers out there, can this be refurbished?
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I seem to remember my series with a 6cylinder engine had a separate solenoid on the battery tray, might be worth looking for one of those? I replaced mine after 24yrs service and it was £5+pence.
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Is that a box of condoms and a bottle of lubricant on the passenger seat
I hope his mother don't see that
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Thanks for that reb, and well looks a little bit more to it than perhaps I need to be taking on any time soon but at least the gear box has been in the bath and is now de-greased and clean
Maybe at a later date when I have almost nothing left to do but looking at the tooling that guy needed to do it is way beyond my bush mans workshop
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Nope sorry, my French is non existent only bettered by my Dutch, so it seems the €6,800 is to get you interested but the price is actually to be discussed( according to google translate
)All ways too good to be true!!!
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Holy cow this is a cheap RR L322!!!
http://nl.kapaza.be/henegouwen/range-rover-iii-3-0--76799365.htm
Possibly buying a problem or 3 with this one being so cheap, but a hell of a lot of car for your money!!!
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High EGT ?? & New Crankshaft.
in Discovery Forum
Posted
I have spoken in depth with a guy I know who used to work on dyno test beds and yes that is normal to drop 100 degrees through the turbo, but 780 is bloomin high!!! He recommends no higher than 720 maybe 750 as it hits the turbine much over 760 you can get a problem with turbine blades loosing their strength and starting to stretch.