Nigelw
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Posts posted by Nigelw
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many prefer the gearbox as lot less to undo to get it out of the way, two props, hydraulic pipe and a cable, then just drop the cross member, you have to undo the bell housing bolts anyway, Vs pulling the engine out, coolant pipes, fuel pipes exhaust pipe, cables wires and clips and then there is the need to be able to lift it out of the engine bay!!!
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Running the same JT2s and a 2" lift, extended poly bumpstops I have found that the tyre comes in contact with the inner arch near where the battery sits, this has resulted in two bent inner wings..... Don't know how long you have had them fitted, but be worth exploring the issues, as it wasn't present in articulation, but was during full front end compression, like when you hit a speed hump.
This is on an RRC, but is essentially the same.
I was looking at those "progressive" bump stops in one of dirtydiesels threads in the modified builds shed, not sure how they'd stack up height wise against extended stops? Might have to get me a set to try.
I personally still have the front inner wings to re-build so may modify them to suit before I hit full compression, is it the same at the back of the arches too where the brake servo etc, sits?
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I just acquired a S/H LT77 gearbox, condition is unknown but was told it was a "good un", heard that so many times before, but it was free
So is it possible to rebuild it at home on the bench or not? Special tooling or anything in particular needed?
I heard loads of stories about baulk rings and bearings, thought it might be worth a try, or should I just send it to Ashcrofts and be done with it?
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Found this about 6 or 7 months ago when I first fitted the tyres and realized how bloomin big they were.
http://www.fag.hiof.no/~frodehaa/forandringer/245-75.htm
Also located in this thread http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=21316'>here.
Found it very helpful.
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Not surprised with them being HD springs Al
might go medium duty as like a supple ride.I tested the tyre fit in the arches with a little articulation to see if it was necessary or not and found this..... slight lump.
http://s1186.photobucket.com/user/dieseldog69/media/rusty05-09-13013_zps9e779cff.jpg.html'>
Put the rear tyre up here.
http://s1186.photobucket.com/user/dieseldog69/media/rusty05-09-13005_zps80ae4d54.jpg.html'>
Think it needs a little lift and a trim
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They do make the originals look tiny by comparison, and they don't half fill the arches!!!
I am staying with new standard ride height springs but with +1" spacers, not looking to go for too much lift, the tyres give it a lot already, anymore and I'd want to fit side steps just to get in
only thing I have found so far is that I have seriously reduced my steering lock with the LR rims against the wide off-set compomotives she was wearing but if I were to fit spacers to take them out again I would be bashing the wing edges with the tyres, so not an option, just have to see what camel cutting the rear of the back arches gives and then add some extended bump stops to stop the inner wings and wheel boxes getting walloped too hard I think. -
I got this......
image.jpg. 235/75/16I also have alloy's but have not bought tyres yet but will fit 235/75/16 BF's Rouged Terrain.
I do the steelies when off roading, alloy's for the normal around the local driving.
I went for 235/85 on 16" LR Deepdish alloys, compare difference of new to old, incidently old were 235/75/15s though which are equivalent of 235/70 16.
I was thinking the same at one point but came to the conclusion that it really didn't matter, only bar the steels are more tolerant of ham fisted attacks with tyre levers in the field.
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The 200Tdi is 88C stat.
Watching this with interest now as want to go leccy fans on the Disco!
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http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/91562/5497/bulb___holder_grey_disco1
Also available here http://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/land-rover-discovery/rtc6579-bulb-and-holder-grey.html
Craddocks are handy but if you want to replace all 13 of them it will cost you £130 buying with them
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Hi Nigelw,
Here in Holland it is still no problem whatsoever to put another engine/gearbox/axles etc in a Defender (as long as it is older than 1998).
As long as it has been changed on the documents here in Holland, this is the best way to get a Defender with changes registered in Belgium.
We are one Europe, and Belgium is obliged to register any car that has been previously registered in another EU country.
Kit cars are not allowed in Holland, if we build a kit car, we have it registered in the UK, and then have it registered in Holland, because it has a UK registration Holland will register it as well (and all other European countries as well)
You see a lot of Dutch cars for sale because of the very high road tax in Holland. About 2500 euro's each year over here. Cars used to be tax excempt when they were 25 years old, but as of 01-01-2014 they have to be over 40 years old. So for most people a Defender is too expensive now.
They will do so only if they conform to the CoC, no CoC = no kuering, no keuring = no registration!!!!
Could be wrong but I am having to listen to our farms garage guy who imports cars to Belgium and has a lot more knowledge than I do, and he says it is a veritable mine field.
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Looking to build a timber truck for the back meadow and forest, we got really soft ground here and I want to get a bit of weight distribution going on but by putting a third axle on it I can build my own toy but the extra weight on the back end will not give help with traction, engine and drive train is coming from a Lada Riva saloon car, RWD and loads going to scrap so parts a plenty.
I have not the skills or workshop to build proper gear boxes so chain boxes will allow good margin for error on my behalf, this is not for the road and will only ever do short runs but I want to try my hand at something small to start me off.
Of course this project is for after I have finished my own project Discovery.
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Sorry skimmed through first time but read it properly again now.
I am assuming he has literally just slapped that Reg plate on that pink Disco as from the listing there is no heritage to the reg date what so ever, I mean nothing at all, not even a light bulb or holder is from 1971.
This thing seriously needs reported as we have seen a lot of tax free reg'd 90s and 110s but at least they have had some tiny heritage pertained to them but this is ridiculous!!!
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It's an ORANGE ROVER RANGE ROVER according to TFL
and the following is from DVLA (it's down as a rover not land rover Ross)
Date of Liability 01 08 2014
Date of First Registration 05 05 1971
Year of Manufacture 1971
Cylinder Capacity (cc) 3500cc
CO2 Emissions Not Available
Fuel Type PETROL
Export Marker N
Vehicle Status Licence Not Due
Vehicle Colour PINK
Vehicle Type Approval Not Available
I want to pick a few brains here about this truck, OK pink is not my bag but the rest is spot on for what it is, now what exactly is wrong with it from what we see in the pictures???
Is there any leverage in bargaining with the fact that it needs and does not have an SVA to conform to legalities?
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Erm, No!!!
But could someone let Barbie know that her challenge truck has been recovered
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Copied and pasted from my http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=79562'>build thread
For those that don't know, if you intend on running the extra lamps on an earlier 200Tdi and don't want the trailer lamp and/or buzzer going off every time you indicate you need to wire them in with a relay for each indicator lamp, this is how I did mine.
This is basically the bottom back of the looms from my old 300 series V8, you need the wiring and plugs for the lamps and a bit of spare cable.
http://s1186.photobucket.com/user/dieseldog69/media/Rusty130913001_zps6eef4493.jpg.html'>
The relay needs a live feed from the battery and an earth, I chose to run a cable direct from the battery under the body and entering the rear at the light units, this feed will have a 10A inline fuse in it too.
http://s1186.photobucket.com/user/dieseldog69/media/Rusty130913005_zpsf60bcdfa.jpg.html'>
Next you have to find the wires from the multi plug on the back of the light cluster, easy really as they are the same as the colored cables in the lower loom, green with white stripe for the indicators and red with an orange stripe for the side lights, and the black wires are earths, I chose to pluck the terminals out and bare the wires back and solder in the connecting wire for the side light and the trigger wire for the relay, small wrap of tape to insulate them a little.
http://s1186.photobucket.com/user/dieseldog69/media/Rusty130913004_zps23a9b9e1.jpg.html'>
http://s1186.photobucket.com/user/dieseldog69/media/Rusty130913006_zpsc7b15a74.jpg.html'>
The earths are mounted to the body via one of the old M8 bolt holes that would have been used for the dickie seats in the rear.
http://s1186.photobucket.com/user/dieseldog69/media/Rusty130913007_zps7a120172.jpg.html'>
I had loads of the old relay holders from the 300series and used one her with a small strip of tin riveted to the body with a smear of silicone to seal it and job done, you can see the small inline fuse at the bottom, the cable from the battery will go into a new fuse box when I rebuild the inner wing that side and will have further protection there.
http://s1186.photobucket.com/user/dieseldog69/media/Rusty130913009_zpsc7efbbad.jpg.html'>
And all working as it should, and no trailer light warning lamp to be seen.
http://s1186.photobucket.com/user/dieseldog69/media/Rusty130913010_zpse484765e.jpg.html'>
The connections for the relay goes as follows
30= 12V live
86= earth
85= trigger wire from existing L/R indicator
87= supply wire to new indicator
I would like to thank Western for the very good diagram that can be found http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?app=core&module=attach§ion=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=46097'>HERE it was an enormous help when I needed it.
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could be wrong but I thought National Power Steering was buying them for refurb?
I want to dismantle mine just to see what is inside it
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I just wish Europe could implode on itself and let the radicals loose to let folk live a life not consider us hamsters that are needed to power their wheels of progress through taxation.
I actually wish we had the Portuguese system of being able to have things written in on the vehicle papers, now that would make a nice way forward even if we have to pay for it
Bill, what type/strength chain would be necessary for chain box bogie? I have an idea for a piece of equipment for the farm but weight carrying on the back will be interesting if it were only 6X2 I think!!!
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Oh well think it should continue a while longer, probably do that when I fit a recon gearbox and transfer box next year.
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I seem to remember the Diesel Fiesta was a 30A fuse in the box to the cooling fan, brutal beast when it came on sounded more like an Apache taking off
35A cable and a 30A fuse keeps the relay safe kind of 
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I had an Isuzu Trooper a few years ago, it was a "Duty" spec truck so it had a factory limited slip diff in the back, all I will say about that motor is that Land Rover should have hired the guys who designed and built them to come up with the new generation. I have nothing but praise for them, and when I sold on my old one it had covered more than 320,000 miles which is 576,000Kms and I believe she is still running around the streets of the Czech Republic as I write this, do miss that one
I am not doubting a lot of what is said for Toyotas and Mitsi's etc, but when it comes to high tech top end the RR is the king and to send it to a cheap mechanic to solve an issue which requires specialist knowledge seems stupid, I put them in touch with a good main dealer who I personally have used and found very good and reasonable when it comes to discounts and a bit of cash, and yes I told of a coil sprung replacement suspension set up for them but never seen it myself so not in a mind to recommend something I know nothing about.
Think I might put together €4000 and wave it under their noses see if I get a bite
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On my 200Tdi Disco it's not bothered me until now but the clutch biting point is quite low on the pedal as in I only have to lift about 2 inches off the floor and it starts biting, I have not had a proper road test to see if it is slipping but how does it fair against being worn out?
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Does depend on how flexible and whether you want functional or beautiful? I made good use of PVC suction hose as used with a water pump in the past, available in various different sizes, and can be green/black/blue/white and clear in color and available from garden centres/B&Q quite cheaply too.
HTH
Edit to add, the stuff with a nylon stiffener coil inside to stop it collapsing.
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In 2002 it was €80,000 to buy it new in Belgium
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Thought I might invite others to comment on this subject too.
About 4months ago local friends brought a 2002 L322 Range Rover, good spec very clean and bright example but extremely cheap, it was €8000 and looking on the net at the time there were a few vehicles of similar spec but with asking prices of around €13,500 and up for them ones, I kind of smelled a rat(from personal experience if it is cheap, it's cheap for a reason!!!).
So in the last 4 mnths they have had problems with the air suspension, with the wheel bearings, front diff and prop shaft, and now they are bleating on about having to replace the brake discs and pads.
The air suspension I will add does seem to be an ongoing issue, and mostly because they are using a cheap mechanic who knows nothing about it and anyone who has ever heard horror stories about air suspension on P38s will know what this leads to, yep €????? and thousands in mostly unnecessary parts.
But I find myself continually defending the L322, yes it is a green oval so I kind of have a loyalty to it but more so because it has more than 250,000Kms and is over 10yrs old, and with a vehicle of such complexity with electronics after 10yrs they get expensive to maintain, and on top of that for me 150,000Kms I will be expecting drive train wear and tear so for me it is not an issue.
These guys do nothing but bash and moan about the car and for me I find it ridiculous that they do so bearing in mind they paid 1/10th the cost of it new and that it is more than 10yrs old and has 250,000Kms on the clock.
Am I flogging a dead horse or does anyone else see my point?
might go medium duty as like a supple ride.
only thing I have found so far is that I have seriously reduced my steering lock with the LR rims against the wide off-set compomotives she was wearing but if I were to fit spacers to take them out again I would be bashing the wing edges with the tyres, so not an option, just have to see what camel cutting the rear of the back arches gives and then add some extended bump stops to stop the inner wings and wheel boxes getting walloped too hard I think.
35A cable and a 30A fuse keeps the relay safe kind of 
engine out or gearbox ???? 200tdi
in Discovery Forum
Posted
Not so bad as long as you are on flat concrete and have a trolley jack and a mate/wife to help jiggle it around, although if you have an engine hoist as it sounds as though you do you could poke that above the trans tunnel and with a strop lift it from inside the cab? Of course being sure to avoid hitting the roof as you get to the top