19MART82

i bought a 1 litre tub of diff oil from my local motor factors,its got a little plastic spout that pulls out the lid and i save that in my shed,just fill that up from the big tub and then squeeze the oil in

yrm was one of the places i was going to try before i decided to have a go myself,you would think it would be an "on the shelf" replacement with how common these crossmembers are for rotting,would definatly be worth giving him a call im definatly going to make sure theres no mud traps when i weld mine up,and if i stick with a rear tub rather than trayback im going to leave a couple of 2" access holes in the tub floor to point the lance in there

the pictures are a big help thanks,i think fabricateing/strenghtening is the best option as i can get as much plate as i need of a mate and like has been said i can get rid of the mudtraps in the process,it would be a shame to scrap the chassis yet as the rest of it is solid it just looks like ive not cleaned this area good enough after going off road but as you all know its an hard area to get to when i mounted the cage i did just bodge it on the crossmember as i allways planned on makeing proper cage mounts when i traybacked it but its took longer than i thought to get round to it so maybe that could have played a part in the damage too thanks for the advise and i'll take a few pics along the way to share with you all

does anybody know of anywhere that sells replacement A frame crossmembers? i know you can buy just about any chassis replacement part but ive been searching for the last hour or so and cant find any A frame crossmembers anywhere ive done quite a bit of damage to mine mainly my own fault i think due to not cleaning down properly after offroading and rot setting in but to be fair the rest of the chassis is solid condition even though it is a 93k,i was going to patch it up but after closer inspection today i think the best way to do a proper job of it will be to weld a complete new section in,any help or advise greatly appreciated

- offsett moves the wheel further out,+ offsett moves the wheel further in,if you added 30mm wheel spaces then your wheels would have -30mm offsett, i think ( someone please correct me if im wrong) that 0 is in line with the face of the hub where the studs are so 0 offset the centre of the rim would be inline with that

ahh i see just presumed he'd snapped it in his pocket or something with him saying he didnt snap it in the barrel,dont know where your located but im in chesterfield and just so happens i have a brand new barrel still in the box with keys and sheer bolts here,let me know if any good to you

if youve still got the 2 bits of key couldnt you get a new key cut to save you the hassle?

as above knock the seal in first then lever it out,you'll be surprised how easy they come out then. i doubt you could you any grease in the diff,i would have thought it would cause too much drag and also the gears in the diff are splash fed i.e as you drive the crown wheel drags the oil up which wouldnt happen as effectivly with grease

how about a battery operated radio left playing to give the impression someones inside,maybe rig one up to run off a car battery

a mate of mine has just used some conveyor belt on his and to be fair they dont look bad at all,and like you say you cant beat free

http://www.qtservice...i-arch-kit.html they also do 4.5" and i think 6", tomcat motorsport also sell the same kit these are the 4.5" fitted on mine

theres a couple of pics on the flatdog website http://www.flatdoguk.com/discovery-1-5dr-50mm~113

looks like they've been trying to create the derv v8 for a while now,the figures for the new rr v8 diesel are impressive... quote "The new engine uses sequential turbocharging to generate 309bhp (a 15 per cent boost on the outgoing engine) and 516lb ft of torque. Claimed fuel economy is now 30.1mpg on the Combined cycle (an 18.5 per cent improvement), and CO2 output sits at 253g/km (down 14 per cent from the old model's 294g/km). The performance increase means that the Range Rover now accelerates from 0-62mph in 7.5 seconds. " http://www.telegraph.co.uk/motoring/car-manufacturers/land-rover/7837428/New-V8-diesel-for-2011-Range-Rover.html makes you wonder where landrover would be now had they been succesfull back in the 70's

the greenstuff pads are terrible,i had them in the rear of my 90 and my mate had them all round in his, they wore out in no time! and as said the brakings carp,weve since fitted ferado pads and cant fault them at all,ive never had mintex pads on the 90 but i did used to have them in my subaru,thought they were great pads but they did squeel which after reading this thread sounds common with them

good point its ideal for someone to trailer to a few p&p days for a bit of fun and i think thats all its been built for,but £2500 starting bid is definatly ambitious

didnt look much better at the beggining of the build and i hope the chassis was preped properly before it was painted,look under the fuel tank

my thoughts exactly lol

£2500 starting bid ??????? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-Bobtailed-Trayback-Off-Roader-V8-Professionally-Built-/140715695576?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item20c34f1dd8

just to add i allways measure across a tyre (3 - 9 o clock) to account for tyre pressures

This is with the silverstone mt117 35/11.5 r16 which only stand 33.5" my mates got the exact same tyre but on a 15" rim 35/11.5 r15 and they stand 34.75" tall,the only difference is mine are on 8j rims and his are on 10j but you can clearly see his are taller (green 90) tyre sizes compared to the actuall size are carp,when your buying a 35" tyre that only stands 33.5" in my eyes its false advertiseing and a rip off but unfortunatly thats just the way it is,fedima are probably the only tyres i know off that actually stand taller than stated on the sidewall,the yellow 90 on the right has my old fedima 285/75r16 fedimas on

thats correct^^^^^ but they do stand exactly 33.5" tall

Think i would go with the clarke myself,it may be around £7 dearer,but its a few kg lighter,lifts higher and faster (3 pumps to fully lift) in fact reckon im going to invest in one of them

ive also had insa special tracks (265's and 285's) and fedima (285's) which are both remoulds,the insa's are cheap and grip well off road but are noisy on road and dont handle well,the 285/75r16 insa's stand nearly 34" tall,the sidewalls are thin and are prone to cracking,the fedima sidewall is a lot stronger and they are quieter/handle better on road but off road they dont grip as well as the lugs are slightly chamfered,again they are prone to cracking,the 285/75 r16 stand 35.5" tall,im now running the silverstone which grip loads better than both but they seem to wear a lot quicker on road as there a lot softer compound which is also a big problem with the simex

silverstone mt117 arent remoulds and are still for sale on ebay,tyres direct online ect,and the simex are still avilable on d4x4 website,personally i think the silverstone are just as good if not better than simex,the silverstones on 15" rims stand nearer to 35" whereas the 16" only stand 33.5",the simex are almost 35",tread wise and performance theres not much in it at all,the silverstones are a damn site cheaper though

fairplay to them for comeing up with new ideas but personally i dont like the look of them,i dont think that joint looks up to the job in the middle,and i dont like the fact that on the defender brackets theres only the 2 small bolts holding the ball joint to the bracket,i think it would be subject to a lot more force than when fitted to the A frame but thats just my opinion, x arms get my vote ive had them on my 90 for a while now and cant fault them