19MART82

isolator and 1 of these can save a lot of hassle too http://www.x-eng.co.uk/X-Jump.asp, and if you add any wireing for lights etc mount the relays & fuses to the rear bulkhead rather than in the battery tray,ive made a little box out of checkerplate that attatches to bulkhead beheind passenger seat to protect the relays/fuses and make them easy to get too,taped the wires in some conduit to keep it tidy

another point on ropes/strops with stretch is how often do you see people useing kinetic ropes for recovery with a winch sail or wet jumper/coat tied in the middle of it? never! i do agree that a degree of stretch is very usefull/important but again its the person useing the gear thats more important

any strop,rope etc is dangrous used by someone not educated and most of the time its not the equipment its the person useing it and lack of cleaning/checking it,but normally if i see someone at a p&p with a towrope hooked up and wrapped around the A bar etc i would say there prepared/sensible,weve all seen people trying to hook a towrope to a towing point with the motor upto the door handles in muddy water. and personally i dont like to see any towrope/strop used in anger,if a quick pull isnt enough to free the motor than its safer/more controlable to use the winch, this is what can happen when a stretchy rope snaps,but then again the same could happen with wire winch rope,theres no doubt this thread can go round and round in circles about the right or wrong way but its all about useing your head and useing what equipment you have/prefer safely

do you mean for towing or recovery or an all rounder? for offroad recovery i carry 2x 12ft strops rated at 8 ton each,12ft is normally ample but you can join both together to make 24ft and youve also got a 24ft extension to your winch should you need it,personally i hate towing with anything other than a straight bar but i have towed mates home useing 1 of the 12ft strops with no problems just to add i also carry a 2m tree strop too for the winch

i had the tdsi goldfish 9000ib on my truck,i cant praise the winch enough,its rated at 9000ib but definatly pulls harder and has a decent line speed too,the winch never let me down and not once did it ever stall and ive done a lot of hard single line pulls with it,the only reason i changed it is i wanted more speed for challenges so went with a gigglepin modded 8274 but will definatly be fitting another 9000ib tdsi on the rear when funds allow

these may be able to help you http://www.hpcgears.com/

your sure the power steering pump is working correctly? i know you say youve bled the system but are you sure the pump is pumping properly?

worth checking the uj on the steering column to,i had one buggered on mine and it made the steering very heavy

100% agree with the post above,but just found an interesting video on youtube,watch from 2:23, series-standard suspension & lockers,90- high flex suspension & open diffs the suzuki had lsd's

just noticed gwyn's got the kits on ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Defender-200-Tdi-2nd-Alternator-Mount-Twin-Alternator-Mount-12-Volt-WARN-8274-/180743285979?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2a1523acdb

thanks for the help fellas,dont mind traveling a bit to pick it up got a good few contacts to try there,thanks again

i was reading about this recently and i also gave it a try,and yes i did notice a bit of a difference,mainly on first start up the engine seemed smoother and quiter,lthough i didnt notice much difference under normal driveing,i also made sure i got the green 2 stroke oil as was a bit worried about useing the red "honestly mr ministry man its the 2 stroke thats turned it red"

thanks fella's,the one in birmingham looks promiseing its on the right side of birmingham for me (was working there recently nightmare of a place to drive through ),had a quick look on one of the welding forums earlier but most of the posts i found refered to ebay sellers but im a bit dubious of buying it from ebay unless its an established seller and most of them will only ship empty cylinders that you have to get filled yourself,i'll have another look on a few welding forums and give the one in birmingham a ring tomorrow,thanks

as title really i normally use pub gas but im wanting to change to argon/co2 mix but dont really want the monthly rental fee's,can anyone point me in the direction of a cheap supply in or around the chesterfield area? thanks

what defender/gearbox is it?

I run kam locker in my rear axle and to be fair i cant fault it (not very keen on the shafts though),trouble is ive been trying for 3 months now to buy another kam for the front axle and im not haveing no luck at all which has now got me thinking what happens if i need spares at some point,i know kam have merged with allmakes so things are still getting sorted at min thats why ive gave them the benefit of the doubt and hung on but im seriously thinking of buying one of the ashcroft air lockers for the front now,the service from ashcroft is faultless,after i twisted my kam shafts i bought ashcroft shafts & cv's and they were delivered next day,i also bought some second hand cv's which i sent in to be reworked and they were turned round and delivered back to me within 3 days of me posting them,these were my kam shafts (heavy duty not aerospace) after 1 outing running 33" fedima's,ive sent an email off to kam but still not had a reply

theres HPC gears on sheepbrigde too http://www.hpcgears.com/

i agree with that but also on the other hand when say youve got one wheel pushed up into the arch and all the weights on that side it will put great strain on the halfshafts,with open diffs the drive would go to the opposite side which would spin up as you say as the drive will allways follow the path of least resistence,but with a locker you will still have drive on the wheel pushed up into the arch would could possibly have the mojority of the weight on it,i dont disagree you could run standard shafts and for how much they cost, how readily available they are and how easy they are to swap it wouldnt hurt to keep a couple of spares in the l/r,but you would definatly get the full potential out a locker with upgraded

i totally agree mate and so will the majority,you know what the anti's are like though any excuse to have a pop at 4x4 owners,no doubt this newspaper article/story will end up in one of the "ban 4x4's on greenlanes" programs,really hope the culprit gets caught though and hope the british justice system doesnt let us down because theres no excuse for the crime thats been commited,its just bad luck a 4x4 was involved

some sick people in the world,more ammunition for the anti's http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2076631/Sick-joyrider-mows-kills-15-pregnant-sheep-barbaric-4x4-rampage.html

just bear in mind that with a locker you would be best upgradeing the shafts/cv's etc as lockers put great strain on these,which unfortunatly would = more expense,before you part with your cash why dont you pop along to a couple of local p&p's and have practise in your truck,get a feel for it and learn what it is capable of,also watch some of the other trucks that have got suspension ugrades or lockers and then you could see for yourself what upgrades would be best for what you plan to do with your truck and what would best suit your wallet

the facebook page is still up and running and theres been new posts on there today by the admin if thats any help

reading that is a refreshing change when all we seem to hear is more lanes getting closed,although im not from that area its still great news

i think it looks an ideal base project and as long as the numbers match up and arent tampered with and the v5's present,and,all the parts are reliably sourced it would probably some day make a good landy,but im just a fellow landy owner and not a copper

the 200tdi disco and 300tdi uses the 4 bolt holes on top,the defender 200tdi doesnt have these,instead you bolt a plate shaped like an upside down U to the timeing case useing 2 existing timeing case bolt holes (blue arrows) new bolts are supplied that go all the way through to the otherside where you screw a nut on to secure it,another plate (that the alternator is bolted to) then bolts to this by 4 bolts,the first plate is drilled and tapped ready,the 2 bolts inbetween the timeing case bolts (blue arrows) are where the water hose guard are fastened to the plate,the only one you drill and tap is the other end of the water hose guard (red arrow)