Gazzar

They are awesome. You can set it so it only needs the brake to come to a halt. A wall of torque. I'd love to fit one of the motors to a series. Straight to the transfer box. No need for gears. Fill the bonnet with batteries and also where the tanks were and you'd have a decent range. A snorkel for the motor cooling and you'd be done. There is a company that has deciphered the computers and has a new control box so you can control it on a column shift lever.

I think I was more concerned about driving on side slopes and up hills.

I hope you enjoy your Toyota Corolla.

It was You who showed me these swirl & pump tanks! I can plumb a return from the s&p tank, using a tee, a switch-over relay and a pair of12v fuel stop solenoids to ensure the return is into the same tank as the supply. (Cheaper tanks available - for example only) I think this will work. It also does away with the need to have a swirl chamber in the main tanks.

On that topic, is a return necessary from the swirl tank? I understand the return from the injector, but can the lift pump cope with a full swirl tank? Would the swirl tank pressurise?

I didn't find this so, cutting the tank for a rrc pump didn't work for me. Plus the pump pickup had to be extended. It became complex/fast. If I can avoid electrics and too much plumbing in the tank area it's easier for me. Plus the swirl tank can sit nicely on the passenger footwell, where the tool box would go. I'm not against the idea, but the tank on the bulkhead just looks easier to build and repair.

That's part of the fun. I understand carbs and distributors. I don't like them from a tuning and self correcting perspective, but I understand them. I don't understand the kit used on EFI, but that's just a lack of knowledge, so I'm looking forward to that gaining that expertise. Here's a question: Will a mechanical lift pump keep a 2 litre surge pot filled enough for a high pressure pump? Pump in tank If it can keep a carb going, why can't it keep an injector?

I think these bolts and screws need to come out, so that I can clean the oil gallery.

Finish the lightweight rebuild. Go to the Pyrenees.

That might work. When I get a chance (!) I'll get clever. Thanks

I will! I'm already eyeing up the wrecked 2a scrap block in the yard....

Ovality, got you! I should be able to check the cam shaft bearings with these, shouldn't I?

No closing panel on the LWB, but I could use a drain hole or something? Or in near the cappings? Great!

I'm presuming that seeing the cross hatching from the original honing is a good sign?

So, get it nearly there, at 80 degrees, tighten the lock (a bit), then get the gauge perpendicular to the top deck, forcing the ends in further under the resistance of the lock?

Ninjas! Thank you both. I understand what you are proposing, and I'll have a go at this tomorrow. Today is domestic jobs day. And fixing the door of the workshop whilst I can run the grinder in the day time.

I suppose the first thing to do is clean the block and inspect it. I've bought these. I'll try use them to measure the bores. In not sure how they work, but it will be fun finding out.

I've been given a thunderpole CB. The plan is to fit it to the truck cab roof, hanging from a bracket under the radio in the la Salle roof lining. It comes with a gutter mount aerial, with an integrated cable that has a largeish connector. What the smartest way of getting from outside to inside? I'd rather not feel a massive hole in the roof, and there's a couple of metres of cable to hide. Series 3 truck cab.

Have a look in the starter aperture, the ring gear is visible. Is it a series 3? If so, you can see the bevel on the ring gear from the starter hole. If it looks like this: It's not going to get better.

I agree that the oiling is suspect. I'll check the oil ways. And thanks for the tip on the air rifle cleaners, exactly what I was looking for.

So, a load of bits that need cleaning and examining. I need to buy an inside micrometer to check the cam bearings. I enjoyed striping that down.

Then it's time to extract the crankshaft. The bolts were very, very, tight. I used the mains powered impact gun to shift them. Removing the crank wasn't easy, it's heavy and awkward, but using a cable ties as a handle made it manageable. But everything looks okay at first glance. One of the shells, at the back, is through to the backing (of the shell), but other than that I can't see any scoring or similar.

Anyway, with the cam gone it was time to remove the pistons. A very simple job, to be honest. Just note the orientation of the stamps on the conrods. Keep the bits in the right order and cover the threads to protect the journals. The pistons are filthy.

It could just be rust or something. Though I don't believe that. The tappet might have been in the wrong way around, perhaps?

The cam journal looks fine at that end, but I'm worried that there is an underlying cause that I've not located, blocked oil gallery or bearing occluding the oil or something.