Gazzar

I agree with your interpretation, but that's not the advice he was given. The side lights are a good idea, as is the relay, but I'll still pursue fixing the rules, via the DFT, as this is wrong.

I have to say that the MoT guy had been very helpful and professional; he's bound by the rules, which is fair enough (I approve of tough MoTs, but I think this rule change is unfair and unnecessary).

Oh, I agree, but while I argue with the DFT, I need to pass the test. I'll bodge it, hopefully non permanently, tonight.

New regs: 13th September 2018

He's checked with his technical advice line, it's a fail. My choice; modify the loom or condemn the vehicle.

Exactly.

This is what is bothering him: affected by operation of any other lamp

So, what do I do? I think that the MoT guy is wrong, but he's only going by his reading of the guidance. I think I'll phone the garage in the morning and have a chat.

My LWB has just failed the MoT on the fog lamp. It goes off when the main beam comes on. I thought that was correct. Why would you have fog lamps on when the main beams are on?

GL4 is safer, but I think that the modern GL5 oils are less damaging than the early versions.

Try Britpart? Nah, kidding, a decent bearing place should sort you, if they're not busy.

I think I need a career change.

1981 standard petrol LWB. Originally a hard top, but now a pickup. I think most civilian series 3 had the tank in the back, and the filler behind the back wheel.

Series 3. LWB. Any good?

Quick update. The timing has been done, new cam pulley and all. The noise has gone. Hopefully that will be that for another decade or so.

Thank you for the update. That's a sensible approach, did you consider a "performance" upgrade?

Like you I missed the summer. This was when pouring the pads for the pillars of my workshop. The night was a lot colder than I expected, so I heated engineering bricks in the oven, wrapped them with old dust sheets and put them under the frost covers. It did the trick. Anything that holds heat will make a big difference.

Oh dear, the defender is now an alternative to the x-trail.

I know. I'm over thinking! Once again.

I did think of paraffin, would it effect the seals and other rubber elements of the pump, or at least more than diesel? Thanks. Good advice.

What would be the best way to store am injection pump? It's just been refurbished. I was thinking of filling with diesel, spraying with wax, packing in silica gel and pallet wrapping it. Would the diesel go gunky? It's probably 5% bio. With the mileage I do, this will probably be the last pump fitted to the Landrover before diesel is named in a couple of decades time, so I'd like it to keep for at least ten years.

I believe that you can get new tubes to weld into the chassis, I dimly recall seeing them when I was looking for bits to repair my chassis. When I did do the repair I was able to keep the old tubes, but I welded gussets from the chassis rail to the tubes and repaired a lot of cracks where the tube was originally welded to the chassis. I did have the "advantage" that the bottom part of the chassis rail had been removed, so I could access the inside of the chassis.

If you could, that might help. I've been meaning to disassemble that drum switch anyway, as part of the plan to get reverse working. No rush, it will be ages before I get back to this. Too many projects!

Why ever not? Can't think of a more pleasant way to tour the world.

Thanks, that's enough of a hint to get me in the right direction.